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Posts Tagged ‘whalesharks’
- The whales have no trouble finding Mozambique.
Mozambique. Just the name conjures up exotic notions of faraway lands. When pressed, some people might correctly identify Mozambique as a country in Africa, but pinpointing its exact location would send most people scrambling for a good map. Fortunately, droves of manta rays, whalesharks and humpback whales have no such trouble finding the waters off of Mozambique’s coast.
So many dive spots, so little time. Mozambique is a country in southeastern Africa bordered by the Indian Ocean to the east, Tanzania to the north, to the west and South Africa to the southwest. This little-known diving destination offers pristine beaches, warm waters and healthy, unspoilt reefs. Much of the diving is done from the town of Tofo, a small but growing town in southeastern Mozambique right on the ocean. Avid shark divers tend to gravitate south to the beaches of Ponta do Ouro and Mozambique’s top two shark reefs, Pinnacles and Pandaine Express. The Island of Inhaca is also a popular spot for diving and snorkeling. Generally, the visibility is between 40 and 100 feet. The water temperature in the Indian Ocean varies from 23 to 29 C.
Diving with critters great and small. By far the biggest diving attractions in Mozambique are the Manta Rays, Whalesharks, Humpback Whales and Dolphins:
- Rays can be spotted on almost every reef off of Mozambique year round. The waters boast a wide variety of rays, including the Giant Manta ray. In 2008, a new, migratory species of manta ray was identified in the waters off of Mozambique. Many scientists think that southern Mozambique hosts the largest population of manta rays in the world. The rays are so plentiful that most dive operators, especially those out of Tofo, will guarantee manta ray sightings during dives.
- Whalesharks are mostly summer visitors with the best time to see them being November until April. Whalesharks are gentle creatures – non-aggressive plankton feeders that can reach up to 12+m in length with average lengths of 8-9m in the Tofo area, which is the home the of largest concentration of whalesharks in Africa. During November and March, the whalesharks are plentiful, with up to 20 individual sharks being spotted during 30 minute boat journeys. The whalesharks cruise along, at, or just below, the surface so divers frequently don their snorkel gear to see them. Some diving outfits also work with local small plane operators who act as whaleshark spotters, which pretty much guarantees the chances of seeing one while there.
- Humpback Whales visit the area from as early as June until as late as October. The whales spend the summer months in Antarctic waters feeding on large amounts of krill, and then migrate up the east coast of Africa to mate and give birth. Male whales are often seen breeching the surface and slapping their fins in an effort to look sexy to the ladies in the surrounding waters. While diving, it is possible to hear them “singing” to one another – a sound that can be heard from up to 2 km away.
- Dolphins can be seen in Mozambican waters most of the year but June, July and August are the best months for them. There are various species of dolphins in the area including Bottlenose dolphins, Common dolphins and Humpback dolphins. Dolphins are rarely seen alone but rather in groups known as pods – sometimes in very large numbers. Divers are frequently treated to dolphin sightings right at the bow of their dive boats as the creatures ride the water swell.
Smaller, but no less beautiful… The Tofo area is rich in a diverse array of marine life, such as hard and soft corals, pelagic fishes, a multitude of colorful reef fish, sea turtles and green moray eels. It is common to see Grey Reef Sharks, White and Black Tip Reef Sharks all along the coast, especially in the south. Macro photographers will love the great diversity of shrimps, nudibranchs and even leaf fish to choose as photo subject matter.
NOT a pony...
The coastal south of Belize is not an international tourism hotbed. It is, however, authentically beautiful to humans and whale sharks alike. For nine months of the year, the few people who do visit enjoy the peace and tranquility of the sugar-sand beaches with absolutely no crowds. The place is the antithesis of Cheers, the famous TV bar; there nobody knows your name and few care to, either.
Then the spring comes, and everyone goes crazy because of the fish sex. During the April, May, and June full moons, the whale sharks visit to dine on the spawning Cubera Snapper eggs, bringing excitement to the sleepy waters of the offshore formation known as Gladden Split. Crazed divers from around the globe overrun the largest coastal town near the Split, Placencia, using it as a base from which to launch their whale shark efforts, hoping to spot the nomadic, majestic animals.
A few years ago I had the opportunity to swim with these ginormous beauties off of the Split. The creatures amazed me, as did the profoundly odd way in which some humans reacted to them. Therefore, I propose the following things NOT to do when you see a whale shark:
Do not make like a plankton – I once heard a fellow diver complaining that he was afraid of being eaten by an enormous whale shark. I’m not sure if he would have fit in the shark’s mouth, but I do know the shark would not have wanted him in there. Whale sharks are filter feeders, passing large volumes of water through their gills and straining out the tastiest that float about. If you are not a planktonic tasty, then remove sacrificial shark feedings from your list of “to do’s” when meeting a whale shark.
Do not break out your saddle – There is something about the ocean that turns some divers into fondlers. Though on land they seem to be able to keep their hands to themselves, once submerged they inexplicably want to touch everything. A whale shark is not a pony. It does not want to be grabbed and ridden. Even more importantly, touching all manner of sea life is usually detrimental to the item being fondled, as it frequently messes up their external chemistry and introduces disease. If you must touch something, go find the dog that belongs to the scuba shop and give it a good scratch. (Then wash your hands…Scruffy absolutely has fleas.)
Do not announce you have seen better ones in an aquarium – There are places in the world where you can see whale sharks in captivity, for example in the Osaka Aquarium and the Georgia Aquarium. I myself have dove with the whale sharks in the Georgia Aquarium and enjoyed the experience immensely. But nothing can compare to seeing them in the wild, where their appearance during your dive is never guaranteed and their behavior is not dictated by the tank walls. (cue the Born Free movie theme here…)
Do not deploy your fishing gear – Unbelievable as it sounds, there are some people, especially in Asia, who see a whale shark and think…lunch. I have read that the shark has the consistency and taste of tofu. So, why not eat tofu, and leave the poor fishie alone? The tofu has got to be easier to catch than the shark anyway.
On our last dive trip we encountered a couple who mentioned they had been to see the whalesharks of the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico last year. They seemed like honest enough folks, but their claims of seeing hundreds of whalesharks off the peninsula seemed exaggerated at best and a bold faced fabrication at worst. I decided to do some research to find out more about these multiple Mexican whalesharks and determine if it would be worth the trip to see them.
So yes, indeed, there are whalesharks off of the Caribbean coast of Mexico. During the month of June to September, in the area around Cancun, Contoy and Isla Holbox, the sharks swim by during their summer feeding migration. Though the locals, who quaintly call the fish Dominoes, have known about the migration for a long time, it is only within the past six years that these aquatic Latin beauties have grabbed international attention. Whale Shark Tourism infusion started with 9000 people in 2005. 2006 saw a 50% increase to 13,500. 2007 saw another increase to over 16,000 and in 2008 the total board saw almost 20,000 Whale Shark swimmers!
Yes, swimmers. There is no scuba diving allowed with the whalesharks, just snorkeling, a rule enforced by Mexican marine park rangers with fast boats, firepower and determined glints in their eyes. There are a variety of outfitters who the government has licensed to take people to swim with the Whale Sharks which keeps good control over process. Props to Mexico for acknowledging and protecting their marine treasures.
Let’s talk numbers. Were my dive buddies making an accurate statement, or were the oodles of whalesharks all in their minds? If they really did go in 2008 or 2009, it is possible they were telling the truth. Each year since 2005 the number of whalesharks sighted in the region has increased, though it is unclear whether that is a function of more whalesharks in the area, or better spotting techniques (like the use of planes or historical sighting data). Some days you might be lucky to see one or two, with five to ten seeming to be the average. But when the water is thick with plankton, for example from spawning fish, the whaleshark numbers can grow dramatically, with 2009 aggregations reaching 300+. That’s 300+ whalesharks at one time in an area no bigger than a few football fields. I can’t imagine a site more amazing than that.
So the only downside seems to be the unpredictability of the sightings and the time it takes. While my dive buddies may have seen 300, if I went a week later I might have only seen one. Depending on where you are based, the boat ride out to see the whalesharks could be three hours or more (that’s three hours out and three hours back.) On the upside there are frequently surface manta ray sightings in the area, giving passengers something to look for on the long ride. And of course, the possibility of something this good is certainly worth the wait.
Though relatively unknown, Latin America has some great diving along both coasts. Pristine reefs and few fellow divers equal one of kind diving opportunities. A few interesting spots to check out:
Gladden Split, Belize-Off the southern coast of Belize, Gladden’s Split is a world-renowned spot for diving with massive whale sharks. This site is the natural spawning ground for a variety of marine species which in turn attract the big guys. Whale sharks come regularly to feed on the fish eggs and other plankton in the water especially during the full moons of April, May and June, though they can also be seen August to October and in December and January. Though some of the dive sites in the north of the country are more well-known, none (except maybe the Blue Hole) are as dramatic and as rewarding.
Spooky Channel, Roatan, Honduras – Spooky Channel is located directly off the end of the Sunnyside pier making shore entry and exit a snap. Those on boats can also access the site, with moorings on both the inside and outside of the reef . There is a maze of zigzags and tunnel like effects leading throughout the reef at depths of up to 95 feet that give the site its name. There is an incredible array of fish on this dive including: blue runner, harlequin bass, cowfish, trunkfish, black durgon, butterfly fish, grouper, angelfish, parrotfish, octopus, lobster, shrimp, spider crab, trunkfish, porcupine fish, turtles, and rays. Upon occasion divers can even see whalesharks when the season is right. Abundant, healthy corals such as flower coral, smooth starlet, ribbon coral, brain coral, sea rod, sea fans, tube sponges, and basket sponges will do their best to steal your attention away from the fish.
Catalina Island, Costa Rica -This island off the west coast of Costa Rica is almost unknown to humans, but well known to rays. Giant Manta Rays, Bat Rays, Mobley, Spotted, Bull’s-eye and Stingrays abound. It is not unusual to see large migratory schools rays passing by during a dive. Sometimes sharks make an appearance too, including tiger sharks and white tips. The best months for diving the Catalina Islands are December through May, high season for Mantas. If you get bored of all of the large pelagics, you can also find frog fish, harlequin clown shrimp and sea horses here.
The Devil’s Throat, Cozumel, Mexico – Located at the Punta Sur dive site in Cozumel, The Devil’s throat is an underwater cave formation that starts at the opening of a dark narrow tunnel at 90 feet and takes you first vertically, then horizontally out through an opening at 130 feet on the wall. Visibility often exceeds 200 feet and the area is frequently visited by eagle rays and turtles, thought the creepy and spectacular cave is the highlight of this dive. Bring a dive light and some really advanced scuba skills for this one – you’ll need it.
Isabela Island, Mexico – Isabela Island National Park is a marine preserve accessed only by boat off the Pacific Coast of San Blas, Mexico. It’s possible to swim with giant Manta rays and hear whale songs underwater on the same dive. On the boat trip out and back, divers frequently sight whales, dolphins, turtles, whalesharks and sailfish. The unique underwater topography includes a giant underwater arch and several small caves to explore. A rainbow of tropical fish, yellowtail, grouper, red snapper, jack caravel, eel, anemones and all manner of corals thrive in this pristine habitat.