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This is not a fish...
Want to dive surrounded by lots of rich history and few other divers? Then Turkey is the place for you. Scuba diving in Turkey is relatively new and slowly developing, which means the facilities are there, but not the crowds. The warm weather in Turkey makes scuba diving possible all year round; however, the true scuba diving season begins around April when average water temperature in the Mediterranean Sea off the coast of Turkey is 18C. The height of the scuba diving season in Turkey occurs in August where the waters reach temperatures of 30C (86F).
Turkey offers a wide variety of scuba diving options including reef diving, wall diving and cavern diving for divers with all levels of skills. The underwater scenery is varied and interesting, with tunnels, caverns and rocky pinnacles providing divers with plenty to explore. There are also many diveable wrecks along the Turkish coast, both historical and modern. Diving conditions are excellent throughout the diving season with clear blue waters and visibility of up to 100 feet.
This isn’t the Caribbean, though. Not all dives will yield profuse and colorful fish like in tropical seas, but on most dives one will encounter an interesting range of species of fish including nudibranches, octopus, groupers, morays, barracuda, moray eels, seahorses, sting rays, and sea bream. Though rare, there is also the possibility of seeing dolphins and turtles depending on the dive site.
For me, the true appeal of diving in Turkey is the chance to encounter glimpses of prior civilizations that the sea has gobbled up. The area is rich with underwater historical artifacts. The most common items divers encounter are broken amphora and pottery, but a wide range of ancient artifacts, even shipwrecks, exist in shallow water and deep water alike. Formal underwater archaeological sites, however, are strictly controlled and diving at these sites is not open to the sport diver. But, plenty of informal opportunities exist to see relics lost long ago.
Although there are some scuba diving sites on the Black Sea resorts of Turkey, scuba diving is especially popular around the Mediterranean and Aegean seas. Most tourist resorts on the Southern coast of Turkey have scuba diving sites and offer scuba diving trips. Some of the most popular locations in Turkey include Alanya, Antalya, Bodrum, Kas, Kalkan, Marmaris, Fethiye and Gallipoli. All of these scuba diving destinations have plenty of non-diving related things to do too, including yachting and sailing.
Bodrum
Bodrum is a wildly popular vacation spot on the Aegean Sea. On land, Bodrum boasts both trendy modern amenities and historical treasures to explore. Diving is particularly nice here due to the warm, calm waters of the Aegean that are free of tides and strong currents. For those who want to dive beyond the bays and beaches, rugged, volcanic offshore islands provide some very diverse locations including hot springs, caverns, reefs and spectacular drop-offs. It is not uncommon to come across evidence of ancient civilizations, such as artifacts and wrecks, on almost every dive.
With sea temperatures ranging from 14 to 25 degrees between summer and winter, Bodrum is a great location for diving holiday at any time of the year. Just to be on the safe side, recompression facilities and the services of a hyperbaric doctor are on 24-hour call in Bodrum.
Marmaris
Marmaris is a popular resort town located in the south-west coast of Turkey where the Aegean and the Mediterranean Sea meet. Marmaris is a natural harbor that provides a safe haven for a variety of water sports including diving. Its clear sea waters range in temperature from 18 to 25 degrees C.
Marmaris offers a good variety of diving, located largely in the Bay of Marmaris. Around Yildiz Ada and the smaller Keci Ada (respectively Star and Goat islands) groupers, octopuses, jacks and sea breams are commonly seen. At the western tip of another small island, Bedir Ada, divers can see the remains of an 800 year old Ottoman wreck. Another interesting aspect of diving in Marmaris is the numerous underwater caverns: Baca Magara, the chimney cavern of Yildiz Ada, the entrance of which is at 14m and the exit at 3m below the surface, makes a stimulating second dive. Further out at Kadirga Point, divers can spot broken amphora on the sea bed up to a depth of 30m.
Alanya
The interesting flora, the variety of underwater marine life and especially the enticing underwater caverns and caves have made Alanya a popular dive. Most of the dive sites are situated around the coastline of the Alanya Castle, the steep cliffs of which turn to dramatic drop-offs under the surface of the sea. The close proximity of these dive sites makes them easily accessible even by inflatables and diving three or four times a day is possible with the option of returning to base after each dive. The sites are also very suitable for night dives.
Like Bodrum and Marmaris, Alanya doesn’t disappoint when it comes to things to see underwater. Several sites, like the Aquarium, host an incredible array of fish in a small area. Creatures such as snails, mussels, octopus, black scorpion fish, moray, soldier fish, grouper, thornback rays and pıgfish are all easy to spot. Looking for evidence of prior civilizations? Well, that’s here too. At the spot named Amphora, divers can see…amphorae, mostly broken pieces, but plenty of them. And at Pirate Cave, an ancient mill stone sits easily accessibly on the ocean floor.
Kas
Kas packs a one-two punch of dense underwater life and extremely clear water, with visibility extending past 100 ft on good days. There are around 30 different dive spots, all reachable within 30 minutes starting from the harbor of Kas. Wreck diving, cave diving, underwater canyons, stone reefs, swim throughs, tunnels, and night diving are all options in this area. Kas even boasts its own blue hole with an incredible array of sea life.
Many critters call Kas home. Barracuda, stingrays, turtles, rare snails, dorado, jackfish, soldierfish, octopi, eels, trumpet fish, huge groupers, trigger fish, anemones, crabs, and even soft-corals.
Kalkan
Kalkan has at least 14 excellent dive sites including islands, reefs and walls. The visibility at all of the dive sites is usually quite good, often in excess of 25-30m. Water temperatures range from about 18oC in April to 30oC in August. Kalkan’s tides are modest, and easy to navigate by divers.
A large variety of marine life is found in the area: groupers, sardines, moray eels, turtles, stingrays, barracudas, sea bream, rainbow wrasse, damsel fish, bonita, sea mullet, starfish, octopus, dolphins, nurse sharks, squid, mackerel and more. Other items of interest include ancient pottery remains and an old wreck of a steamship.
The Vandenburg
There is more to Key West than dive bars. Most people don’t realize that one of Florida’s biggest party towns actually has a lot of scuba options if you can stay sober long enough to seek them out. Key West’s largest and most pristine reefs are located several miles off shore, making a dive boat a must. Those willing to venture a little further still can also enjoy the dive opportunities in the Lower Keys, especially pristine Looe Key Reef, a protected site teeming with sea life that know nobody is going to eat them. Interesting sites include:
Looe Key Reef – The coral reef of Looe Key has been afforded special protection since 1981. Since then, all spearfishing, coral collection, and even lobstering have been banned there. The site’s namesake, the frigate H.M.S. Looe, accidentally ran hard aground there in 1744; remains of the ship lie between two fingers of coral near the eastern end of the reef although only the ballast and anchor are visible. One unusual aspect of Looe Key is that a complete reef ecosystem is found there, from a rubble ridge of ancient fossilized corals, to a reef flat comprised of turtle grass, to a fore reef made up of large star and brain corals arranged in a spur-and-groove coral formation sloping from 20 to 40 feet. There is even a deep reef which slopes to more than 100 feet, providing a great opportunity to view the pelagic species of the Florida Keys, including eagle rays, turtles and every once in awhile a whale shark or manta ray. But don’t miss the main attraction looking for big game: more varieties of tropical marine species are found at Looe Key than perhaps anywhere else in the hemisphere, placing most of the of action right in front of your mask.
Adolphus Bush – This former island freighter was purchased by the local dive community with the generous assistance of Adolphus Busch IV, and sunk upright and intact in just 100 feet of water some seven miles southwest of Big Pine Key in December 1998. Before sinking, the ship was well cleaned and prepared for divers, including the opening of several large holes for penetration. The ship is 210 feet long and the maximum depth is 110 feet, making it an Intermediate to Advanced level dive. There is some marine growth on the wreck, but the highlight is the ship itself, as well as the schools of fish that are starting to use it as a playground.
Sand Key – From the surface, Sand Key looks like a pile of shells topped with a jaunty red lighthouse hat. But, underwater the view gets much more idylic. The reef itself consists mostly of rock fingers and gullies with sandy bottoms between cliff-like structures and extensive areas of staghorn and elkhorn coral. This site reaches to 65 feet and teems with endless expanses of colorful tropical fish and macro photography opportunities. Though popular, this location is so large that dive boats can spread out, and fish always outnumber divers.
Alexander’s Wreck – commercial salver Chet Alexander purchased this ship from the Navy and sunk it to form an artificial reef. The wreck lies on its side and is broken in half, with the stern section lying 150 yards or so north of the bow, which is awash on most tides. The hull is covered with Leavy oysters and the surrounding waters teem with what seems like unending schools of tropical fish.
Joe’s Tug – This classic tugboat sits totally upright in just 65 feet of water, and offers a great opportunity for close encounters with Goliath Grouper, spotted morays, barracuda, and horse eye jacks. Open access to the wheel house and aft deck make this an enjoyable dive.
The Cayman Salvor -This 180-foot. steel hulled buoy tender, also known as the Cayman Salvager, was intentionally sunk as an artificial reef in 1985. She now sits upright with cavernous open holds providing refuge for baitfish and grunts, as well as a resident jewfish and green moray eel.
Hoyt S. Vandenberg – So, how long to do you plan on staying in the Keys to dive? At 523 feet in length and 10 stories high, the Vandenberg, the Key’s most famous artificial reef, will take you some time to explore. Vandenberg sits upright approximately seven miles off Key West in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, its keel buried at 145 feet. The tops of the bridges, the communication center and the ship’s dish antennas are 40 feet from the surface of the water, perfect for beginning divers or deco stops. All dive spots along the top structure are open, free from obstruction and are easy to maneuver over and around during a dive. The decks are 45 to 90 feet below the surface. There are holes cut measuring 8×10 feet on each side to allow divers to penetrate the decks horizontally. There are 18 stair towers, 11 elevator shafts and cargo hold shafts to give divers vertical access to the wreck. The 25 foot tall rudder and prop is a great deep dive at 150 feet for the advanced diver.
Since being sunk to the bottom in under two minutes’ time on May 27, 2009, the second-largest ship in the world to be sunk as an artificial reef sits encrusted with species of soft corals. Some 48 different species of shallow water and reef fish have taken up residency, such as parrotfish, goliath grouper, yellow and blue tangs, barracuda as well as deeper water dorado and the occasional sailfish attracted by clouds of bait that frequently school around the wreck. Gray angelfish and butterfly fish are routinely seen circling the anchor chain, while arrow crabs treat the whole thing like a jungle gym.