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February 5, 2012, 5:52 am
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    Get this guy an XXXXL BCD

    Get this guy an XXXXL BCD

    Chile has a secret.  Though most people think of the Andes Mountains when it comes to Chile, this country’s 6,400km of pristine coastline acts as a gateway to some of the best cold-water diving in the world.  The Humboldt Current whisks by Chile’s coast, creating plankton-rich waters that offer neon soft corals, towering sponges, tie-dyed starfish, flower corals, snappy crabs, playful sea-lions, historical wrecks and plenty of fish for divers to relish.

     

    Scuba divers embrace the waters off the coast from Puerto Montt in the south to Arica in the north, though the most popular dive spots reach from Arica to La Serena on the north coast where the water is warmer and the fish are more prolific.  Visibility ranges from 10-20m and water temperatures from 11-14°C (don’t worry, the air is a lot warmer!)

    Many dive sites are shore-entry. Chilean beaches are easily accessible and usually have similar characteristics: a small sandy bay capped at both end by cliffs. The bottom of the sea alternates between sand and large boulders, with a cash crop of seaweed sprouting from the cracks and crevices.  Chile’s secret status as a dive haven means that less divers visit these waters, resulting in incredibly healthy and abundant flora and fauna.

    The most common places for scuba diving in Chile are:

    North Region

    The north region is perhaps the most popular area to dive in Chile.  Divers of all skills levels will find amazing sites to explore.  Oh, and it doesn’t hurt that the water is warmer here, too.  Some sites include:

    The Cauldron of Death – With a name like this, it’s got to be good.  This combo wall/cave dive is strictly for advanced divers only.  The shore entry to the site needs to be timed since heavy surge occurs every few minutes.  Max depth is 35m but average viz is 30m.  The cave is fun to explore while the wall provides a natural canvas for an enormous amount of marine growth which, in turn attracts large schools of fish.  And when your dive day is done, you can brag to your other dive buddies that you survived the…Cauldron of Death.

    Roca Chungungo – This reef/wall dive site has little current and offers something for all levels of scuba divers.  Novices can stay and play on the shallow reef while more advanced divers can descend down to the depths, which bottom out at 47m.  Average viz is only 15m, but behold what might pop out of the gloom:  otters and sea lions frequent this spot, and are known to follow divers around.

    Islands of Chile

    Offshore, the waters get warmer and the diving gets hotter.   There is a rich variety of fish in the clear waters surrounding the islands. Among the many species to be spotted, divers can find moray, vidriola, cod-fish, pampanito, breca and corvine.  Juan Fernandez Archipelago boasts several sites, including some surrounding Robinson Crusoe Island (the Chileans are really good at naming dive sites to entice you to visit.)

    By far the most famous of the Chilean islands to dive is Easter Island, known for its towering (dormant) volcanoes and enormous, awe-inspiring Maoi stone statutes.  At 2,300 miles offshore, this island is a unique retreat resting on an underwater volcanic ridge which supports over 100 species of tropical and pelagic fish and 144 species of algae. There are no coral reefs but several coral species do grow around the island.  About 20% of the marine flora and fauna found there is endemic to Easter Island. 
    Leveraging one of the island’s dive guides is a must: currents can change rapidly and many dive sites are hard to locate.  The Island’s better known diving sites include: Jardin, Omohi, Motu Kao Kao, Motu Nui, Motu Iti, El Puente (The Bridge), El Acantilado (The Cliff) and the Anakena and Ovahe beaches.

    One dive site typical of the island is the Cathedral.  Accessed by boat, this dive site usually has light currents, and consists of an area of kelp upon entry.  As the diver descends they encounter numerous rock structures with vast amounts of corals.  Divers can spot a variety of fish including the tipi-tipi (butterfly fish), maito (surgeon fish), toremu (a variety of piranha), trompeta (bugle fish), loro (parrot fish) and tuna.  Anemones, octopus, sea snails and sea urchins are also plentiful.

    Central Coast

    The central coast, though cold, hosts an array of nice dive sites spread out over many miles.  Quintay, once an important whaling station and now a museum and scientific marine research centre on the central coast, has some nice dive sites with several accessible wrecks from the whaling days. Laguna Verde and Algarrobo are also popular diving areas along the central coast.

    El Falucho is a nice wreck dive for less experienced scuba divers.  She lies at a depth of around 15 meters.  Entry to the site is by boat only, and visibility usually runs about 17m.  The light current takes divers along at a pleasant pace, giving them plenty of time to explore the riot of colorful growth and fish that inhabit the nooks of the wreck.

    The currents at Lobera de Curaumilla are a bit swifter than El Falucho, making it best for those divers with at least intermediate skills.  It is an interesting dive site with great marine life, though the average visibility is only about 7m and the max depth 16m.  The highlight of diving here is the opportunity to see the large colony of seals that call this area home. 

    Whether you think of Great White Sharks as ferocious or just misunderstood, you have to admit they are exciting animals. Due to their nomadic lifestyle and periodic deep water forays, we have limited knowledge about them, which perhaps adds to their mystique. We do know that these powerful sea-dwellers can grow to over 20 feet and live to upwards of 100 years. They are found in almost all coastal and offshore waters which have water temperature between 54 and 75 °F, with greater concentrations off the coasts of Australia, South Africa, California, the northeastern US, Mexico’s Isla Guadalupe, New Zealand and the waters of the Mediterranean. Their preferred habitat is the cooler, deeper waters of the ocean and the waters around oceanic islands and rocky outcrops where deep water is within easy reach.

    Great Whites are truly apex predators. They are capable of sensing the blood of an injured animal from over a kilometer away. Their Ampullae of Lorenzini organ, which enables them to detect and stalk the electromagnetic field emitted by the movement of living animals, can detect movement that generates as little as half a billionth of a volt. Though Hollywood has spectacularly portrayed them as preferring humans for lunch, they actually live on a diet of fatty fish and animals such as rays, tuna, smaller sharks, dolphins, porpoises, whale carcasses, seals, sea lions, and occasionally sea birds. Diving with Great White Sharks is certain to be on anyone’s list of Most Extreme Scuba. So, where can aquanauts meet these beauties eye to eye?

    • Farallon Islands, California, USA – The Farrallones are located 28 miles west of San Francisco. A protected National State Wildlife Refuge since 1969, the Farrallones are an important research spot for great whites. These islands are one of the few places in the world where great whites can be observed in predatory attacks upon seals, birds, and sea lions from dry land. But doesn’t getting in the water with them sound like such a better idea? Cage diving is offered from late-September through November. Divers are offered a tank/regulator or a hookah setup. Since random chumming of the water is illegal in the Refuge, operators often pull along seal “decoys” to attract the sharks. It is an amazing day trip from the city, with many of the operators leaving right from the tourist hub of Fisherman’s Warf.

    • Isla de Guadalupe, Pacific Coast, Mexico – Guadalupe Island is a volcanic island about 145 miles offshore of Baja Mexico, 200 miles south of San Diego. Due to the remote location of the island, this trip is done via a live aboard operation over multiple days. The island has a dramatic sheer rock wall extending hundreds of feet up into the air, as well as hundreds of feet into the ocean. The islands’ large population of seals attracts the white sharks in large numbers. The rocky outcrops of the islands have dramatic drop-offs around the edges that reach down into cool, deep water, also attracting our toothy friends. Visibility at this site is fantastic, up to 100 feet or more. Also, the water temperature ranges from 67 to 70 F, making it much warmer than some other Great White watching spots.

    • Dyer Island, False Bay, South Africa – South African Great White cage diving occurs mainly in False Bay and the Whale Coast. Dyer Island is a small, low, and rocky island located just offshore from Gansbaai in the Western Cape of South Africa. During winter, the warm Agulhas Current sweeps down from the Indian Ocean, meeting the cold Benguela Current, creating a temperate zone just off the South African coast – providing ideal conditions for the Great White Shark in particular. This island serves as a breeding ground for a wide variety of seabirds, while its neighbor, Geyser Rock, serves as a home for a large resident seal population. White Sharks are seen on a regular basis in the channel between the two islands (“Shark Alley”) where they feed on a variety of seals, seabirds, and penguins. As an added bonus, Great White sharks in these waters often display very unusual, but highly spectacular breaching when chasing their prey, which makes for some amazing topside photos.

    • The Neptune Islands, South Australia – The Neptune Islands sit on a shelf south east of Port Lincoln off South Australia. Grey granite and coastal loam make up these picturesque islands, which support an array of wildlife, including many bird species, a large colony of fur seals, as well as a colony of endangered Australian sea lions. Known as the place where the hit movie “Jaws” was filmed, the waters around these islands are a natural feeding area for Great Whites. Most shark diving here is done via a live aboard vessel. Operators practice cage diving combined with surface bait to give divers an unforgettable experience, sometimes with more than one Great White in sight at a time. The water is very cold here, but the shark action is definitely hot.

    • Lampedusa, Sicily, Italy –Have you swam off the coast of Sicily or found the offshore waters of Nice to be nice? Oh yes, there were Great White sharks there, and you didn’t even know it. Great White sightings are becoming more common in the Mediterranean, where a high concentration of nutrients attracts some of the whites’ favourite snacks: large pelagic fish, dolphins and turtles. There have been numerous sightings of the Whites along the Spanish, French, Italian and Croatian coasts, but by far the largest concentration of the sharks is in the channel between Sicily and Tunisia. As far as I can determine, no one does cage diving here because of the infrequent nature of the sightings. However, there are many dive companies that operate out of Lampedusa, Sicily, which puts you in waters with the highest density of Great White sightings in all of the Mediterranean. Divers have encountered large white sharks while diving in the open sea at Sicilian Channel sites such as Pantelleria, Malta, and southwest Marretimo. Though rare, these experiences are as amazing as you can get: no chumming, no decoys and no cage bars between you and the jaws of the Great White.

    Scapa Flow blockship at low tide

    Scapa Flow blockship at low tide

    Mention scuba diving, and most people conjure up images of warm, tropical locales in the Caribbean or the Pacific.  But many places in Europe offer great diving too with the added bonus of some very interesting topside cultural experiences.  In particular, the United Kingdom and Ireland offer fantastic diving, enhanced by the water that surrounds them as well as their rich history. 

    So, yes.  The water is cold up there.  In winter the ocean temperature ranges between 45-55F degrees.  And, yes.  The visibility is not always crystal clear, like in some warmer climes.  BUT, if you get past these small challenges, there are some amazing wrecks to dive and even spots of prolific sea life to explore.  Some examples:

    Scotland
    Scapa Flow in the Orkney Islands is one of the most famous dive sites in the UK.  Numerous warships from the early 1900’s litter the ocean bottom. These wrecks are in remarkably good shape, in particular the Blockship Tabarka, scuttled to prevent a submarine attack during WW2.  The Tabarka is covered in sea life and offers a fascinating window into the past.  On this and some of the rest of the sunken fleet, huge guns protrude from the wreckage.  Sea life includes wrasse, brittle stars, large jellyfish, sea urchins, sponges and starfish, which are often seen on the wrecks and in the kelp forests nearby.  Divers may also be joined by seals on the surface.

    Oban, on the west coast of Scotland, also offers high quality wreck and wall dives. This area is known for visibility that allows divers to easily explore the wreckage of several ships, such as the shallow Shuna and the more demanding Rondo. The abundance of wrecks is a result of the bad weather that plagues the area. Rocky outcrops, such as Calve Island, provide interesting wall dives with faulted ledges and overhangs.  The water is generally clear and green and there may be strong currents, particularly after a lot of rain. Life is abundant and varied, with dogfish, pollack, octopus, cuttlefish, wrasse, corals, crabs, hydroids, nudibranchs, plumose anemones and sea squirts being found. Sometimes even porpoises and whales can be seen here.

    England

    Eddystone Reef around the Eddystone lighthouse lies 10 or so miles outside of Plymouth Sound. Visibility here is okay, usually at about 40 feet.  The reef is from 8 to 60 m, and encompasses large boulders, walls and plenty of crevices that encourage sea life.  The numerous rock gullies are lined with kelp and house anemones, sponges and sea fans.  Divers can spot dogfish, bib, pollack, congers, wrasse, lobsters, edible crabs, star fish, urchins and loads of cucumbers.  Lucky divers might even spot smooth hound and basking sharks.  On the way back to shore, a second dive can be made on the James Egan Layne, one of the most famous dived wrecks in the UK.

    The Mohegan Wreck sits on the Manacles granite reef off the Lizard Peninsula.  The bow is at a depth of about 65 feet with the rest of the ship deeper.  This ship sank in 1917 after repeatedly hitting the reef.  Pieces of the ship, including the boiler, can still be seen, while a great deal of sea life has moved in, including jewel anemones and coral fans.  Visibility varies, but can stretch to 65 feet on a really good day.  Over 200 wrecks lie around the Manacles, making it an excellent area to see multiple wrecks on a single dive trip.  In the months of May and June basking sharks are regularly seen as well as orca whales and dolphins.

    Ireland

    North Wall, Rathlin Island of the coast of Northern Ireland is an amazing, high-vis wall dive with sometimes fierce currents.  The wall starts at the shoreline with a steep descent, after which it plummets to 200m. A sea arch and a series of large sea caverns are found at depth.  The kelp forest in the shallows hides healthy communities of wrasse, sea hens, mackerel, pollack, and sometimes even moon jellyfish.  Huge numbers of actinithoe anemones cover the bottom, and nudibranches of many varieties can be found in abundance.

    Fanore, located about 7 miles south of Black Head, offers what some call the “nicest shore dive in the country.”  This Atlantic site offers crystal clear water, but is very exposed, so it can only be dived in fair weather.  All along this reef there are ledges and overhangs, which teem with a great variety of fish. Lobster, crayfish, pollack, congers, ling, bib, whiting and wrasse are here in abundance.  Also spotted here occasionally are John Dory, shark and even electric ray.  The underwater topography doesn’t disappoint, either, with an enormous rock feature called “The Cathedral” that looms over the curious diver.

    Diamond Rocks, Kilkee is a very popular, cold-water dive site situated on the South West Clare coastline in a natural break in the cliff wall facing the Atlantic. The bay is fairly sheltered, but is graced with high visibility and filled with rocks and gullies to poke around.  There is a reef teeming with sea life at about 6-9m deep, which protects a deep valley about 30m deep between itself and the shore. Two circular holes at the narrow entry to the reef are often filled with crabs. The sea face of the reef falls in steps from about 20m down to 40+m, and has lots of sea life hiding in the cracks and crevaces for a diver to find. There are over twenty surveyed dive sites in Kilkee, so pair this with another of the many nice dive sites in the area for a great day of Irish scuba diving.

    Fastnet Rock, near Cape Clear Island in Roaringwater Bay sticks straight out of the water and is topped by a stone lighthouse that can be explored by foot on calm days.   The visible rock is in the middle of a narrow reef running SW – NE about 1km in each direction with depths of 45m.  Strong and sometimes erratic tidal flows and deep water all around the rock make diving here only for the experienced during calm weather and water.  But when conditions are right, the clarity of the water can be incredible, and the underwater scenery is spectacular with huge shoals of fish and fantastic growths on every rock face.