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February 8, 2012, 6:24 am
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    Posts Tagged ‘manta rays’

    The whales have no trouble finding Mozambique.
    The whales have no trouble finding Mozambique.

    Mozambique. Just the name conjures up exotic notions of faraway lands.  When pressed, some people might correctly identify Mozambique as a country in Africa, but pinpointing its exact location would send most people scrambling for a good map.  Fortunately, droves of manta rays, whalesharks and humpback whales have no such trouble finding the waters off of Mozambique’s coast.

    So many dive spots, so little time.  Mozambique is a country in southeastern Africa bordered by the Indian Ocean to the east, Tanzania to the north, to the west and South Africa to the southwest.  This little-known diving destination offers pristine beaches, warm waters and healthy, unspoilt reefs.  Much of the diving is done from the town of Tofo, a small but growing town in southeastern Mozambique right on the ocean.  Avid shark divers tend to gravitate south to the beaches of Ponta do Ouro and Mozambique’s top two shark reefs, Pinnacles and Pandaine Express.  The Island of Inhaca is also a popular spot for diving and snorkeling. Generally, the visibility is between 40 and 100 feet. The water temperature in the Indian Ocean varies from 23 to 29 C.

    Diving with critters great and small.  By far the biggest diving attractions in Mozambique are the Manta Rays, Whalesharks, Humpback Whales and Dolphins:

    • Rays can be spotted on almost every reef off of Mozambique year round. The waters boast a wide variety of rays, including the Giant Manta ray.  In 2008, a new, migratory species of manta ray was identified in the waters off of Mozambique.  Many scientists think that southern Mozambique hosts the largest population of manta rays in the world.  The rays are so plentiful that most dive operators, especially those out of Tofo, will guarantee manta ray sightings during dives.
    • Whalesharks are mostly summer visitors with the best time to see them being November until April.  Whalesharks are gentle creatures – non-aggressive plankton feeders that can reach up to 12+m in length with average lengths of 8-9m in the Tofo area, which is the home the of largest concentration of whalesharks in Africa.  During November and March, the whalesharks are plentiful, with up to 20 individual sharks being spotted during 30 minute boat journeys. The whalesharks cruise along, at, or just below, the surface so divers frequently don their snorkel gear to see them.  Some diving outfits also work with local small plane operators who act as whaleshark spotters, which pretty much guarantees the chances of seeing one while there. 
    • Humpback Whales visit the area from as early as June until as late as October. The whales spend the summer months in Antarctic waters feeding on large amounts of krill, and then migrate up the east coast of Africa to mate and give birth.  Male whales are often seen breeching the surface and slapping their fins in an effort to look sexy to the ladies in the surrounding waters.  While diving, it is possible to hear them “singing” to one another – a sound that can be heard from up to 2 km away.  
    • Dolphins can be seen in Mozambican waters most of the year but June, July and August are the best months for them. There are various species of dolphins in the area including Bottlenose dolphins, Common dolphins and Humpback dolphins.  Dolphins are rarely seen alone but rather in groups known as pods – sometimes in very large numbers. Divers are frequently treated to dolphin sightings right at the bow of their dive boats as the creatures ride the water swell. 

    Smaller, but no less beautiful… The Tofo area is rich in a diverse array of marine life, such as hard and soft corals, pelagic fishes, a multitude of colorful reef fish, sea turtles and green moray eels.  It is common to see Grey Reef Sharks, White and Black Tip Reef Sharks all along the coast, especially in the south.  Macro photographers will love the great diversity of shrimps, nudibranchs and even leaf fish to choose as photo subject matter.

    High Res WhalesharkOn our last dive trip we encountered a couple who mentioned they had been to see the whalesharks of the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico last year.  They seemed like honest enough folks, but their claims of seeing hundreds of whalesharks off the peninsula seemed exaggerated at best and a bold faced fabrication at worst.  I decided to do some research to find out more about these multiple Mexican whalesharks and determine if it would be worth the trip to see them.

    So yes, indeed, there are whalesharks off of the Caribbean coast of Mexico.  During the month of June to September, in the area around Cancun, Contoy and Isla Holbox, the sharks swim by during their summer feeding migration.  Though the locals, who quaintly call the fish Dominoes, have known about the migration for a long time, it is only within the past six years that these aquatic Latin beauties have grabbed international attention.  Whale Shark Tourism infusion started with 9000 people in 2005. 2006 saw a 50% increase to 13,500. 2007 saw another increase to over 16,000 and in 2008 the total board saw almost 20,000 Whale Shark swimmers!

    Yes, swimmers.  There is no scuba diving allowed with the whalesharks, just snorkeling, a rule enforced by Mexican marine park rangers with fast boats, firepower and determined glints in their eyes.  There are a variety of outfitters who the government has licensed to take people to swim with the Whale Sharks which keeps good control over process.  Props to Mexico for acknowledging and protecting their marine treasures.

    Let’s talk numbers.  Were my dive buddies making an accurate statement, or were the oodles of whalesharks all in their minds?  If they really did go in 2008 or 2009, it is possible they were telling the truth.  Each year since 2005 the number of whalesharks sighted in the region has increased, though it is unclear whether that is a function of more whalesharks in the area, or better spotting techniques (like the use of planes or historical sighting data).  Some days you might be lucky to see one or two, with five to ten seeming to be the average.  But when the water is thick with plankton, for example from spawning fish, the whaleshark numbers can grow dramatically, with 2009 aggregations reaching 300+.  That’s 300+ whalesharks at one time in an area no bigger than a few football fields.  I can’t imagine a site more amazing than that.

    So the only downside seems to be the unpredictability of the sightings and the time it takes.  While my dive buddies may have seen 300, if I went a week later I might have only seen one.  Depending on where you are based, the boat ride out to see the whalesharks could be three hours or more (that’s three hours out and three hours back.)  On the upside there are frequently surface manta ray sightings in the area, giving passengers something to look for on the long ride.  And of course, the possibility of something this good is certainly worth the wait.

    high res mantaNomadic in nature and notoriously bubble-shy, Manta Rays are undoubtedly one of the most appreciated underwater sightings once you finally find one. There are, however, a few places in the world that can almost guarantee a manta sighting on any given dive.

    Yap, Micronesia – This tiny Pacific island just north of the equator houses a resident colony of manta rays, a rare living situation for the animals. Check out Yap Diver’s blog that highlights pics from “Manta Fest” including one dive trip accompanied by a pod of Orcas. As a bonus, visitors to the island also get a unique top side cultural experience that frequently includes grass skirts, loincloths, and the use of huge wheels of stone money for barter.

    Kona, Hawaii – This manta experience is decidedly more manmade, but no less exciting. Dive operators and hotels light up the waters off the Kona Coast at night, attracting swarms of plankton that, in turn, attract the manta rays. Divers and snorkelers alike hover in the water column, watching the giants glide and swoop as they feed. Check out Kona Honu Diver’s page for a cool video of what the dive actually looks like.

    Atlanta, Georgia – On this trip you have a 100% chance of seeing not one manta, but two. If you buy tickets to the aquarium, that is. Whether you agree with the idea of aquariums or not, you have to admit that this place really has it all when it comes to sea life. The two mantas swim in a six million gallon exhibit next to four whale sharks, a handful of hammerheads, and a ton of other fish. Rumor has it that one of the rays likes to do flips out of the water at the surface, a rare treat for people on the Behind the Scenes tours.

    Yap Manta Ray

    Yap Manta Ray

    Nomadic in nature and notoriously bubble-shy, Manta Rays are undoubtedly one of the most appreciated underwater sightings once you finally find one. There are, however, a few places in the world that can almost guarantee a manta sighting on any given dive.

    Yap, Micronesia – This tiny Pacific island just north of the equator houses a resident colony of manta rays, a rare living situation for the animals. Check out Yap Diver’s blog that highlights pics from “Manta Fest” including one dive trip accompanied by a pod of Orcas. As a bonus, visitors to the island also get a unique top side cultural experience that frequently includes grass skirts, loincloths, and the use of huge wheels of stone money for barter.

    Kona, Hawaii – This manta experience is decidedly more manmade, but no less exciting. Dive operators and hotels light up the waters off the Kona Coast at night, attracting swarms of plankton that, in turn, attract the manta rays. Divers and snorkelers alike hover in the water column, watching the giants glide and swoop as they feed. Check out Kona Honu Diver’s page for a cool video of what the dive actually looks like.

    Atlanta, Georgia – On this trip you have a 100% chance of seeing not one manta, but two. If you buy tickets to the aquarium, that is. Whether you agree with the idea of aquariums or not, you have to admit that this place really has it all when it comes to sea life. The two mantas swim in a six million gallon exhibit next to four whale sharks, a handful of hammerheads, and a ton of other fish. Rumor has it that one of the rays likes to do flips out of the water at the surface, a rare treat for people on the Behind the Scenes tours.

    high res mantaWhen I heard that Hurricane Jimena, currently a category 4 storm and the tenth storm of the season in the Pacific, was barreling down on Baja California, I thought I hope it won’t hurt the scuba diving there. Then I realized I had no clue what kind of diving was there. After a little research I now hope more than ever that Jimena decides she wants an authentic tamale and veers significantly to the right into a low-population area.

    The Baja peninsula actually has an amazing array of diving opportunities, from the rocky kelp forests in the north on the Pacific coast near San Diego to the only live coral reef on the western side of North America, Cabo Pulmo, on the Sea of Cortez between La Paz and Cabo San Lucas. The indigenous sea life is insane, including great white sharks, hammerhead sharks, tiger sharks, whale sharks, manta rays, dolphins, marlin, Humboldt squid, octopus, and whales. In some spots divers encounter sea lions frequently eager to play or gnaw the end of your fin.

    I can’t wait to book my next trip: the Baja Peninsula has moved up to #1 on my “to dive” list. I’ll just wait until Jimena checks out of the hotel.