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Posts Tagged ‘lobsters’
St. Lucia boasts a cash crop of Arrow Crabs
I’m just back from a week-long dive trip to beautiful St. Lucia. This island is in the Eastern Caribbean, part of the Lesser Antilles, lying between Martinique to the North and St. Vincent to the South. It boasts beautiful topside vistas redolent of tropical day dreams and Corona commercials as well as healthy, prolific underwater scenes. I’ve also never visited an island before with such nice people. From the vendors to the hotel employees to the waiters, everyone was incredibly friendly and kind.
Topside temperatures vary between 70 degrees and 90 degrees, depending on the season. The rainy season, which I embraced whole-heartedly due to the lack of tourist crowds, is June to November. Though last year the rainy season was actual marked by a serious drought, Mother Nature has returned to her regular routine, with generous but brief dousings almost every day this summer. Unfortunately, this sometimes meant variable visibility and several places where the freshwater runoff turned the sea into a nauseating kaleidoscope. The water temperatures range from 77 degrees in winter to 83 degrees plus in summer. My computer registered 80 and more the entire trip. I used a wetsuit, but it was more of a fashion statement than a necessity.
Most of the diving is done from the west and south-west sides of the island that face the Caribbean. The underwater topography runs the usual gamut, with volcanic pinnacles, sheer walls, shipwrecks and coral reefs to explore. Dive site depths range from 12ft to around 140ft. Depending on who you ask, there are 40+ “official” locations to dive, though those in the Soufriere Marine Reserve (which starts close to Anse La Raye and extends south for about 12 miles to the town of Soufriere) are the most popular due to the healthy coral and abundant sea life.
Shark lovers beware – there really aren’t any here. If you dive one of the sparse sites on the Atlantic side of the island, you might get a brief sighting of a reef shark or two, but the exciting experience will most likely be dampened by a raging case of sea sickness due to the rough waters. Come to think of it, most local folks had not-so-nice-things to say about the East side of the island and it’s exposure to the feral waters of the Atlantic: bears the brunt of oncoming storms, sea spray tends to drift along the coast which makes a rusty mess of anything metal, few “tried and true” dive sites, etc. I wasn’t there long enough to prove the nay sayers wrong, but it sure looked beautiful if not at least a little dangerous as I drove along that coast’s cliffs.
As for sea life, St. Lucia has a cash crop of arrow crabs, coral banded shrimp and a rainbow of different eels at every dive site (including a lively snake eel on my second dive.) Lobsters abound, and rays and turtles are also frequently seen. I saw scorpion fish, sneaky frog fish and flying gurnards on the trip, as well as fantail pipefish, trumpet fish, cowfish, grouper, jack, snapper, puffers, spotted drum, and a heaven full of angel fish. Sadly, everyone kept promising me octopus and sea horse sightings, but none came to fruition. Underwater barracuda sightings were equally as sparse, but (disturbingly) showed up on a dinner menu one night. Less mobile, but not less impressive, were the barrel sponges, crazy-huge vase-like growths that hosted a ton of critters along the reef. In one we spotted a basket sponge hiding from the sun’s rays.
As I mentioned, the island itself is picturesque. Enormous, green-clad mountains (the most famous are called the Pitons) rise at varying heights across the landscape. Lots of shallow, calm bays stretch inland, making great harbors for sailing day trips or extended stays. A note of caution: the main airport is FAR from most towns that a diver might be interested in, so an hour-plus transfer is common and may include windy roads with maniacal local drivers. Also, food is expensive here. Most items need to be imported, and most establishments are only too eager to tack on hefty service charges in addition to the mandatory taxes. Were all my meals there great? No. Were many of them really good? Yes, especially the ones that involved locally caught fresh fish, prawns, bananas, etc. St. Lucia restaurants are at their best when embracing what the island’s land and surrounding sea have to offer.
The beaches were beautiful and the hotel selection ranged from the most basic accommodations to the most extravagant (every room gets their own pool!) I found diving in St. Lucia to be convenient, with lots of safe dive companies staffed with friendly local people willing to go out of their way to deliver a good diving experience. Though it costs a few more dollars to stay and eat there, the cost of diving was on par with many other Caribbean islands. It was an enjoyable week, one that I hope to repeat during the next “dry” season.
The Eagle Wreck
Islamorada is actually a village consisting of six islands including Plantation Key, Windley Key, Upper and Lower Matecumbe keys, and Long Key. It is well known for sport fishing, as the bonefish, permit, tarpon, snook and redfish are abundant and almost always biting. But anglers aren’t the only ones who go to Islamorada for the variety and volume of the fish. Divers flock to the area’s high profile coral heads, broad ledges and wreck cracks and crevices that shelter snapper, grunts, goatfish, angelfish, jacks, porgies, hogfish, barracudas, lobsters, grouper, nurse sharks and moray eels. Islamorada offers a wide variety of shallow and deep coral reefs, mini walls, shipwrecks, and even an underwater habitat for scientific research, the Aquarius.
Visibility in Islamorada waters is between 80-100 feet. The average annual air temperature is 80F degrees while the average water surface temperature is 75° F. The warmest time of the year to dive is between July and August, but diving is done year round. Examples of Islamorada dive sites include:
The Eagle Wreck – This 287-foot ship was intentionally sunk in 1985 as part of the Florida Keys Artificial Reef Association program. She sits in 110 feet of water, although parts of her structure start as shallow as 75 feet. The ship rests on her starboard side, and is wrapped in encrusting sponge and coral and populated by huge schools of grunt, tarpon, silversides and jack, as well as cobia, jewfish, and nurse sharks. The Eagle sits in water outside of the protective reef, so while visibility is incredible, the current can sometimes be strong.
Conch Reef/Wall – Here the reef leads to a wall (rare for Key waters) that drops down to a depth of 100 feet. A proliferation of barrel sponges call this spot home, from thimble sized versions up to larger than life specimens. The depth is a nice change from other reefs in the Keys, and offers the chance to regularly see pelagic fish in the blue. The current in this area can run from moderate to strong; in strong times it can be great for drift dives. This site is popular for good, year-round visibility.
Pickles Reef – A long, narrow, spur and groove reef with plenty of opportunity to observe macro critters like flamingo tongue cowries and banded coral shrimp. At a maximum depth of 25 feet, this spot is perfect for a long second dive with an underwater camera. If anyone can tell me why this site is named after a sandwich condiment, I would appreciate being enlightened.
The San Jose and the Infante Wrecks – Two galleons belonging to the famous Silver Plate Fleet of 1733 were lost in a hurricane off the Keys and went down within a mile of one another, both in quite shallow water (15 feet). Not much is left of the Infante except some timber planking originally from the ship’s deck and her uniquely shaped ballast stones. The San Jose collided with the sand flats, where her stern section disintegrated and became detached from the main hull which sank another 200 yards away with its ballast stones. An easily-accessible window into history.
Davis Reef – This popular outer reef on the edge of a flat shallow bank attracts huge schools of fish including grunts and schoolmaster snapper. Several personable green moray eels have also added to this site’s fame. Nurse sharks, turtles, parrotfish, angelfish, lobsters and other types of eels frequent this spot, giving visitors plenty to see. Divers of all skill levels can appreciate the reef, which starts shallow and reaches down to 80 feet. A statue of Buddha sits on a concrete block in the middle of the site, adding to the serenity of the dive.
Scapa Flow blockship at low tide
Mention scuba diving, and most people conjure up images of warm, tropical locales in the Caribbean or the Pacific. But many places in Europe offer great diving too with the added bonus of some very interesting topside cultural experiences. In particular, the United Kingdom and Ireland offer fantastic diving, enhanced by the water that surrounds them as well as their rich history.
So, yes. The water is cold up there. In winter the ocean temperature ranges between 45-55F degrees. And, yes. The visibility is not always crystal clear, like in some warmer climes. BUT, if you get past these small challenges, there are some amazing wrecks to dive and even spots of prolific sea life to explore. Some examples:
Scotland
Scapa Flow in the Orkney Islands is one of the most famous dive sites in the UK. Numerous warships from the early 1900’s litter the ocean bottom. These wrecks are in remarkably good shape, in particular the Blockship Tabarka, scuttled to prevent a submarine attack during WW2. The Tabarka is covered in sea life and offers a fascinating window into the past. On this and some of the rest of the sunken fleet, huge guns protrude from the wreckage. Sea life includes wrasse, brittle stars, large jellyfish, sea urchins, sponges and starfish, which are often seen on the wrecks and in the kelp forests nearby. Divers may also be joined by seals on the surface.
Oban, on the west coast of Scotland, also offers high quality wreck and wall dives. This area is known for visibility that allows divers to easily explore the wreckage of several ships, such as the shallow Shuna and the more demanding Rondo. The abundance of wrecks is a result of the bad weather that plagues the area. Rocky outcrops, such as Calve Island, provide interesting wall dives with faulted ledges and overhangs. The water is generally clear and green and there may be strong currents, particularly after a lot of rain. Life is abundant and varied, with dogfish, pollack, octopus, cuttlefish, wrasse, corals, crabs, hydroids, nudibranchs, plumose anemones and sea squirts being found. Sometimes even porpoises and whales can be seen here.
England
Eddystone Reef around the Eddystone lighthouse lies 10 or so miles outside of Plymouth Sound. Visibility here is okay, usually at about 40 feet. The reef is from 8 to 60 m, and encompasses large boulders, walls and plenty of crevices that encourage sea life. The numerous rock gullies are lined with kelp and house anemones, sponges and sea fans. Divers can spot dogfish, bib, pollack, congers, wrasse, lobsters, edible crabs, star fish, urchins and loads of cucumbers. Lucky divers might even spot smooth hound and basking sharks. On the way back to shore, a second dive can be made on the James Egan Layne, one of the most famous dived wrecks in the UK.
The Mohegan Wreck sits on the Manacles granite reef off the Lizard Peninsula. The bow is at a depth of about 65 feet with the rest of the ship deeper. This ship sank in 1917 after repeatedly hitting the reef. Pieces of the ship, including the boiler, can still be seen, while a great deal of sea life has moved in, including jewel anemones and coral fans. Visibility varies, but can stretch to 65 feet on a really good day. Over 200 wrecks lie around the Manacles, making it an excellent area to see multiple wrecks on a single dive trip. In the months of May and June basking sharks are regularly seen as well as orca whales and dolphins.
Ireland
North Wall, Rathlin Island of the coast of Northern Ireland is an amazing, high-vis wall dive with sometimes fierce currents. The wall starts at the shoreline with a steep descent, after which it plummets to 200m. A sea arch and a series of large sea caverns are found at depth. The kelp forest in the shallows hides healthy communities of wrasse, sea hens, mackerel, pollack, and sometimes even moon jellyfish. Huge numbers of actinithoe anemones cover the bottom, and nudibranches of many varieties can be found in abundance.
Fanore, located about 7 miles south of Black Head, offers what some call the “nicest shore dive in the country.” This Atlantic site offers crystal clear water, but is very exposed, so it can only be dived in fair weather. All along this reef there are ledges and overhangs, which teem with a great variety of fish. Lobster, crayfish, pollack, congers, ling, bib, whiting and wrasse are here in abundance. Also spotted here occasionally are John Dory, shark and even electric ray. The underwater topography doesn’t disappoint, either, with an enormous rock feature called “The Cathedral” that looms over the curious diver.
Diamond Rocks, Kilkee is a very popular, cold-water dive site situated on the South West Clare coastline in a natural break in the cliff wall facing the Atlantic. The bay is fairly sheltered, but is graced with high visibility and filled with rocks and gullies to poke around. There is a reef teeming with sea life at about 6-9m deep, which protects a deep valley about 30m deep between itself and the shore. Two circular holes at the narrow entry to the reef are often filled with crabs. The sea face of the reef falls in steps from about 20m down to 40+m, and has lots of sea life hiding in the cracks and crevaces for a diver to find. There are over twenty surveyed dive sites in Kilkee, so pair this with another of the many nice dive sites in the area for a great day of Irish scuba diving.
Fastnet Rock, near Cape Clear Island in Roaringwater Bay sticks straight out of the water and is topped by a stone lighthouse that can be explored by foot on calm days. The visible rock is in the middle of a narrow reef running SW – NE about 1km in each direction with depths of 45m. Strong and sometimes erratic tidal flows and deep water all around the rock make diving here only for the experienced during calm weather and water. But when conditions are right, the clarity of the water can be incredible, and the underwater scenery is spectacular with huge shoals of fish and fantastic growths on every rock face.
‘Tis the season for gift giving, a time when many people stress out about purchasing the perfect present for their special someone. My family has caught on that I have a scuba affinity and so most of my gifts are ocean-themed (I get Dramamine in my stocking every year.)
Recently I was scanning the scuba catalogs for “Christmas Wish List” items and came across several pieces of “gear” of dubious purpose. Though they may look appealing on a glossy page, these trinkets are destined to be abandoned under a boat’s bench seat sometime in the future by a frustrated diver with a lighter wallet. Links to these actual products have been provided for your enjoyment.
Scuba Lobster Inn (W/Zipper) – “The most popular collection bag for lobstering.” Lobsters check in, but they can’t check out. When you are ready to eat, just unzip and boil. Comes in your choice of 4 colors, none of which you can see underwater.
Cold Water Mittens – 7mm neoprene mitts by Edge with velcro/elastic wrist closures. Warm, but not terribly useful if you need to use any fingers underwater. Plus, your little kid mittens will most likely draw the ridicule of fellow divers. Topside activities with this gear include making snowmen.
Aqua Maracas – “Shake things up next time your down! This lightweight, compact, underwater signaling device is audible over 30 feet away.” It’s a perfect complement to your Scuba Samba and guaranteed to frighten all the fish.
“Dive Naked” License Plate – Conceptually I like the idea, but in practice I would think there might be some chaffing associated with this activity. What I know for sure is that NO ONE at my place of employment needs to see me pull into the parking lot with this on my car.
5-Page Wrist Dive Slate (w/free extra pencil!) – For those who are inspired to write an entire novel while underwater or carry on a lengthy conversation on existentialism with their dive buddy. Or perhaps it is meant to capture a checklist of scuba steps: Step 1 – Inhale, Step 2- Exhale, Step 3- Inhale…People who bought this gift should have also bought the Guide to Underwater Hand Signals.
The Shark Shield – “The Shark Shield incorporates two electrodes, which project the field from the unit and thus create an invisible protective shield that surrounds the user…” Sort of like one of those canine electric fences, but for sea life. Order in the next ten minutes and we’ll include a free can of Turtle Repellent. One question: if it is invisible, how do you know its working?
"And our friends are all aboard..."
This post will appear periodically, letting folks know the latest news of what divers are seeing under the waves across the globe. I look forward to hearing from you as you encounter the weird, the wonderful, and the downright odd. I will kick this recurring post off with a selection of interesting tidbits from aquariums from around the world.
Georgia Aquarium, USA
A giant squid has come to the Georgia Aquarium! OK, so it’s dead. And, it’s constant formaldehyde bath has reduced it to the consistency and appearance of firm tofu. Oh, and prior handling broke many of the tentacles, giving it the nickname “shorty.” So, turn around and watch the beluga exhibit behind it instead. That one really is fantastic.
Melbourne Aquarium, Australia
Penguin sex. King and Gentoo penguins getting it on. Need I say more?
Yokohama Hakkeijima Sea Paradise
Not just an aquarium, but an entire sea paradise. Located at the tip of Yokohama Bay, this unique destination combines an aquarium with a sea-themed amusement park. Just like diving from a boat, you can get seasick on the rides then go see the aquatic wonders.
Two Oceans Aquarium, South Africa
The United Nations declared last year the International Year of the Frog. Don’t tell me you missed it! Now people can get that frog feeling all the time with an enormous permanent exhibit dedicated to our amphibious ancestors. The website lists one of the compelling reasons to visit the exhibit as “Frogs with personalities!” How could you say no?
New England Aquarium, USA
I guarantee that no where else in the world can you find the collection of sea creatures as specific and specialized as this aquarium’s Gulf of Maine exhibit. Highlights include blue and white lobsters, which turn into American flags when you drop them into a stock pot.
Oceanographic Museum & Aquarium, Monaco
In 1910, Prince Albert I cleaned out his garage and put all of his old nautical stuff in this building, including excellent examples of why fish should not be subject to the rigors of taxidermy. Forgo the entry fee and instead spend your time out front looking at what I believe is the most interesting thing related to the museum: a submarine used extensively by Jacques Cousteau. And, best of all, the thing is bright yellow. (I kid you not.) “In the town, where I was born…”