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Posts Tagged ‘dolphins’
Larry, the Puerto Rico lobster
Puerto Rico may be the fourth largest island in the Caribbean, but it is certainly one of the greatest for scuba diving. Its unique location, between the semi-protected Caribbean Sea and the open Atlantic, means that divers get the best of two realms, with sheltered reefs, pelagics from the deep, sheer drop-offs and networks of caves and tunnels, all in clear, warm waters year round. Water temperatures are in the low 80s in winter; mid-80s in summer. Visibility averages 70 feet around the main island with 100 feet or more off some of the surrounding small islands.
Diving in Puerto Rico is mainly done off the East, South and West coasts of the island. To the east, visibility frequently approaches 100 ft. Off the coast sit two small islands ripe for diving – Culebra and Vieques. The establishment of the Culebra Marine Reserve Park ensures that its dive sites are protected. Though Vieques is known for the prior U.S. Naval bombing exercises, it actually offers very healthy reefs due to the lack of visitors there in the recent past. There are also several dive sites around a series of small uninhabited islands—Palomino, Palominitos, and Cayo Diablo, where white beaches lead to shallow, prolific reefs amongst calm waters. Along with stingrays, eels, angelfish and jacks, very often divers off the east coast see dolphins, turtles, manatees, and even sometimes passing whales.
Puerto Rico’s Wall runs parallel to the south coast, producing sites with shocking drop offs. La Parguera, on the island’s southwest edge, features at least two dozen spots for sighting stands of black coral and pelagics. Rincon is where land-based dive operators run trips westward to Desecheo Island, another area with more dive options than there are hours in the day. A trip to pristine Mona Island is a highlight of many divers who visit, but it lies 45 miles west of the island (a 6-hour boat ride) and so the visit needs to be planned in advance.
Some interesting dives in Puerto Rico include:
Las Cuevas – This fascinating spot located near Desecheo that looks like Dr. Seuss molded the sea floor. Arches and swim-throughs cover the landscape, producing psychedelic effects and plenty of exploration opportunities. This boat dive starts at about 35 feet, but goes no deeper than 65 feet, which insures divers will have plenty of bottom time to search for critters amongst the super healthy reefs.
Cayo Raton – This semicircular reef off of Culebra starts flat and then plunges down to 55 feet. The sometimes strong current makes for 100+ foot visibility on a good day of diving. Larger fish are attracted to the current, but the reef boasts a healthy collection of small creatures, too, prompting many divers to note that there seems to be an unusually large amount of fish to be seen at this site.
Fallen Rock – This advanced dive near La Parguera will take a bit of a boat ride to get to, but bring a book and some sun screen, and you’ll be glad you made the trip. Sometime over the millenea, an enormous piece of the wall broke off and tumbled down the slope, causing a v-shaped notch that now shelters an explosion of coral and sea life. The boulder that broke off now forms a pinnacle further down the slope that divers can explore in detail, with frequent seahorses, crabs and octopus sightings. This is a deep dive, with the top of the reef at 65 feet, and the bottom dropping past 100, but the unique topography makes for a dramatic dive. All the usual reef fish can be spotted here, as can pelagics like mackerels, jacks, barracuda and spotted eagle rays that patrol the blue.
The Wall – This wall dive near La Parguera (sometimes also called Efra’s Wall) boasts multitudes of colorful coral lining the wall and adjacent canyon. This is a great site to check out the plant life, with gorgonians, whip corals, large golden zoanthids, green finger sponges, black coral and rope pore sponges growing from what seems like every surface. This dive also offers queen triggerfish, spotted eagle rays, schools of goatfish and parrotfish, as well as a hefty dose lobster action.
Diving an oil rig has always seemed a daunting task to me both in terms of accessing the site as well as taking on the monstrous-looking structure. On the surface, many people find these rusty rigs to be an eyesore, a hulking man-made blight on the beautiful ocean surface. But, under water it’s a very different story. The thick metal supporting beams of the oil rigs act as a magnet for a vast array of marine plants and animals, creating a kind of artificial reef, a haven for sea life in the middle of the open ocean. Twenty-three oil platforms breach the waters off the coast between Oceanside and Santa Barbara, with names like Eureka, Ellen-Elly and lots of other girly monikers.
Diving the rigs requires special permission. All divers must sign a safety waiver, promising not to touch the structure or harvest any of the creatures that live on the beams. Your best bet for easy, comfortable, and legal rig diving is to go with one of several companies take charter boats out to the platforms. Anchoring is impractical due to depth, and tying off to the rig is prohibited. This type of dive is best handled by intermediate or experienced divers due to the conditions. Surge is common. Visibility can be 10 feet one day, 100 the next, with 50 feet the average. Currents, too, are ever-changing and can be strong, but it’s nearly always possible to shelter behind pilings and girders. The best marine life is found from the surface down to about 80 feet. Prime diving season is generally June through December.
And when I say ‘prime diving’ I really do mean prime. The underwater structures are absolutely teeming with sea life. Upon entry and exit divers usually see sea lions and dolphins, some which may even follow the divers around during the dive. The structures themselves are covered wall-to-wall with strawberry anemones, enormous scallops and mussels, acorn barnacles, and a variety of sponges. On top of all of that growth crawl, crabs, nudibranches, huge sea stars, multi-colored brittle stars, and scorpion fish. In the water column swim a variety of fish including calico bass, sculpins, gobies, sheephead, jellyfish and garibaldi, California’s bright orange state marine fish. Fish schools are common too, with hundreds of mackerels, groups of sardines and packs of halfmoons cruising the waters together.
Blue Hole, Gozo
Unlike the cold European waters to the north, the Mediterranean Sea is frequently thought of as a scuba diver’s dream destination. Many places in the Med offer great diving with the added bonus of some very interesting topside cultural experiences. Some interesting sites in the Eastern Mediterranean include:
Cypress
The Zenobia is a 178 meter long ferry that went down in 1980 with over 100 large vehicles onboard, giving this dive plenty of exploration possibility and making multiple dives here a must. It lies on its port side which starts at a depth of 15m and descends to 42m. Visibility is usually quite good; some days it stretches to 35m. Experienced divers can penetrate the wreck to see the interior, including two trucks still hanging upside down from their chains, but visibility can drop drastically in the confined spaces. Though the wreck is the main attraction, triggerfish, barracuda and enormous grouper can also be spotted here.
Manijin Island is a very scenic dive with a wall, a spectacular algae covered cave and a swim-through with a blowhole to keep a diver continuously engaged through the dive. This dive is ideal for beginners as well as experienced divers with dive depths ranging from 5m to 24m. Marine life highlights include slipper lobsters, big grouper and large shoals of saddle bream. Also, octopi are relatively common around Cyprus, so taking the time to peer into the nooks and crannies on this dive is frequently rewarded with at least one good critter sighting.
Egypt
Alexandria boasts no significant reefs or colorful tropical fish, but rather a wealth of archeological treasures such as sunken cities, palaces and numerous wrecks. Experts estimate that some 7000 monuments belonging to the Pharaonic and Roman dynasties are preserved under Alexandria’s waves. The Underwater city of Cleopatra and her Palace, located just inside the Eastern Harbor, dates back to 300 BC, and was built by Alexander the Great. The city collapsed and fell into the sea after several earthquakes. Divers can see Cleopatra’s royal districts, the statue of Mark Anthony, Cleopatra’s sun boat and the wreckage of a 2nd World War plane that exists inside the ruins. Various monuments, carvings and building ruins can be seen throughout the site.
Crete, Greece
Navagio Wreck, the wreck of a German WWII Messerschmitt 109 fighter, lies 20km West of Agia Pelagiaat at depth of 24m. The wings and fuselage are intact and you can see inside the cockpit. One of the machine guns is clearly visible with one of the ammunition belts lying on the sea bed nearby. Though the plane’s parts are still identifiable, they are covered in a wide variety of coral and sea life, with groupers and moray eels calling the place home. A healthy reef covered with anemones and small colorful fish schools sits nearby in shallower water, offering the diver an interesting way to work off some of the nitrogen after the deeper wreck portion of the dive.
Malta
Cirkewwa offers 7 different dive sites amongst crystal clear blue waters. One in particular, the Rozi tugboat wreck, offers more to see than a diver can possibly accomplish on one dive. The boat was sunk in 1991 as an underwater attraction by a company offering submarine trips. Lying in a depth of almost 40m, the wreck can be seen completly due to the exceptional visibility which is frequently over 30m. This wreck can be dived from shore or by boat. The abundant sea life in the area includes: barracuda, morays, octopus, cuttlefish, wrasse, bream, nudibranchs, scorpion fish, morays and even dolphins. Some parts of the wreck can be penetrated, but with so much going on around it, you may forget to do so once you get down there.
Blue Hole, Gozo is a hike to get to in your gear, but worth the trip. Divers drop over the lip into the calm blue waters, surrounded by fascinating underwater topography of rocks worn down by the tides of time. At about 5m deep, an opening leads to the sea. Outside the opening divers can see coral gardens, small caves and plenty of sea life, but the star of this show is most certainly the natural formation.
Scapa Flow blockship at low tide
Mention scuba diving, and most people conjure up images of warm, tropical locales in the Caribbean or the Pacific. But many places in Europe offer great diving too with the added bonus of some very interesting topside cultural experiences. In particular, the United Kingdom and Ireland offer fantastic diving, enhanced by the water that surrounds them as well as their rich history.
So, yes. The water is cold up there. In winter the ocean temperature ranges between 45-55F degrees. And, yes. The visibility is not always crystal clear, like in some warmer climes. BUT, if you get past these small challenges, there are some amazing wrecks to dive and even spots of prolific sea life to explore. Some examples:
Scotland
Scapa Flow in the Orkney Islands is one of the most famous dive sites in the UK. Numerous warships from the early 1900’s litter the ocean bottom. These wrecks are in remarkably good shape, in particular the Blockship Tabarka, scuttled to prevent a submarine attack during WW2. The Tabarka is covered in sea life and offers a fascinating window into the past. On this and some of the rest of the sunken fleet, huge guns protrude from the wreckage. Sea life includes wrasse, brittle stars, large jellyfish, sea urchins, sponges and starfish, which are often seen on the wrecks and in the kelp forests nearby. Divers may also be joined by seals on the surface.
Oban, on the west coast of Scotland, also offers high quality wreck and wall dives. This area is known for visibility that allows divers to easily explore the wreckage of several ships, such as the shallow Shuna and the more demanding Rondo. The abundance of wrecks is a result of the bad weather that plagues the area. Rocky outcrops, such as Calve Island, provide interesting wall dives with faulted ledges and overhangs. The water is generally clear and green and there may be strong currents, particularly after a lot of rain. Life is abundant and varied, with dogfish, pollack, octopus, cuttlefish, wrasse, corals, crabs, hydroids, nudibranchs, plumose anemones and sea squirts being found. Sometimes even porpoises and whales can be seen here.
England
Eddystone Reef around the Eddystone lighthouse lies 10 or so miles outside of Plymouth Sound. Visibility here is okay, usually at about 40 feet. The reef is from 8 to 60 m, and encompasses large boulders, walls and plenty of crevices that encourage sea life. The numerous rock gullies are lined with kelp and house anemones, sponges and sea fans. Divers can spot dogfish, bib, pollack, congers, wrasse, lobsters, edible crabs, star fish, urchins and loads of cucumbers. Lucky divers might even spot smooth hound and basking sharks. On the way back to shore, a second dive can be made on the James Egan Layne, one of the most famous dived wrecks in the UK.
The Mohegan Wreck sits on the Manacles granite reef off the Lizard Peninsula. The bow is at a depth of about 65 feet with the rest of the ship deeper. This ship sank in 1917 after repeatedly hitting the reef. Pieces of the ship, including the boiler, can still be seen, while a great deal of sea life has moved in, including jewel anemones and coral fans. Visibility varies, but can stretch to 65 feet on a really good day. Over 200 wrecks lie around the Manacles, making it an excellent area to see multiple wrecks on a single dive trip. In the months of May and June basking sharks are regularly seen as well as orca whales and dolphins.
Ireland
North Wall, Rathlin Island of the coast of Northern Ireland is an amazing, high-vis wall dive with sometimes fierce currents. The wall starts at the shoreline with a steep descent, after which it plummets to 200m. A sea arch and a series of large sea caverns are found at depth. The kelp forest in the shallows hides healthy communities of wrasse, sea hens, mackerel, pollack, and sometimes even moon jellyfish. Huge numbers of actinithoe anemones cover the bottom, and nudibranches of many varieties can be found in abundance.
Fanore, located about 7 miles south of Black Head, offers what some call the “nicest shore dive in the country.” This Atlantic site offers crystal clear water, but is very exposed, so it can only be dived in fair weather. All along this reef there are ledges and overhangs, which teem with a great variety of fish. Lobster, crayfish, pollack, congers, ling, bib, whiting and wrasse are here in abundance. Also spotted here occasionally are John Dory, shark and even electric ray. The underwater topography doesn’t disappoint, either, with an enormous rock feature called “The Cathedral” that looms over the curious diver.
Diamond Rocks, Kilkee is a very popular, cold-water dive site situated on the South West Clare coastline in a natural break in the cliff wall facing the Atlantic. The bay is fairly sheltered, but is graced with high visibility and filled with rocks and gullies to poke around. There is a reef teeming with sea life at about 6-9m deep, which protects a deep valley about 30m deep between itself and the shore. Two circular holes at the narrow entry to the reef are often filled with crabs. The sea face of the reef falls in steps from about 20m down to 40+m, and has lots of sea life hiding in the cracks and crevaces for a diver to find. There are over twenty surveyed dive sites in Kilkee, so pair this with another of the many nice dive sites in the area for a great day of Irish scuba diving.
Fastnet Rock, near Cape Clear Island in Roaringwater Bay sticks straight out of the water and is topped by a stone lighthouse that can be explored by foot on calm days. The visible rock is in the middle of a narrow reef running SW – NE about 1km in each direction with depths of 45m. Strong and sometimes erratic tidal flows and deep water all around the rock make diving here only for the experienced during calm weather and water. But when conditions are right, the clarity of the water can be incredible, and the underwater scenery is spectacular with huge shoals of fish and fantastic growths on every rock face.
When the trainer opened the gate between the pen and the ocean I thought: That dolphin is not coming back. It shot out of the pen like a bullet, heading straight out from shore, a dark, sleek shadow racing through the waves, disappearing in the distance. We boarded the boat and began the short, ten minute trip to our designated dive site. The trainer scanned the horizon for signs of the dolphin, the corners of his eyes pinched with the beginnings of worry. We spent the travel time gearing up so that we would be ready to jump into the water as soon as we arrived at the site.
The captain cut the motor and a mate lassoed a mooring ball cemented to the sea floor so that the boat anchor would not damage the reef. We shuffled to the back of the boat with the rest of the divers, prepared for entry into the ocean. Our eyes focused on the surface, looking for the dolphin, our designated dive buddy for the day. Its disappearance surprised crew and passengers alike, causing us all some concern. Suddenly, it leapt from the water at the stern of the boat, its silver-grey sides glistening in the sun. Its face held intelligent eyes and a smile that said “Hi! It took you long enough to get here!”
Our group of six divers and one divemaster eased into the water and descended to the ocean bottom, about thirty feet down. We knelt in a large circle on the sandy floor. The dolphin trainer swam in the water with, of course, the dolphin. The trainer had taught the mammal well; it kept an eye on its teacher, watching for queues. Flipper swam to each of us, allowing us to pet his back and interact. The dolphin was surprisingly strong, able to push even the largest diver around with ease.
Amazingly, we swam in open water with no barriers around us. At any point the dolphin could have simply left our group and never returned. At certain points the dolphin did disappear from sight, dashing out into the blue and then back again, perhaps resting or refocusing its efforts. The trainer patiently waited until the dolphin appeared ready to move onto the next person or activity. The dolphin seemed to enjoy the experience, having a purpose and freedom at the same time.
Sometimes humans come upon dolphins that have been injured or neglected from birth. Across the globe groups work to rehabilitate these animals, but not all can be returned safely to the open ocean because of the lasting effects of their injuries or their dependence on humans. The company we dove with had rehabilitated many dolphins, some of which needed to remain in captivity, destined to live out their lives with beings that walked instead of swam. Our dolphin was born in captivity, its parents rehabilitated from injuries, but too weak to survive in the wild.
I was excited to swim with the dolphin, but hoped it would be an educational experience, not just a circus act. I found a beautiful creature that had a job it clearly enjoyed with purposefulness that far exceeded swimming around a pen. And, it could have simply swam away, but didn’t. As the dolphin came close to me and inspected my mask, I almost forgot to breathe. It turned to make eye contact with me and I thought: The Bahamas are a great place to be.
When I heard that Hurricane Jimena, currently a category 4 storm and the tenth storm of the season in the Pacific, was barreling down on Baja California, I thought I hope it won’t hurt the scuba diving there. Then I realized I had no clue what kind of diving was there. After a little research I now hope more than ever that Jimena decides she wants an authentic tamale and veers significantly to the right into a low-population area.
The Baja peninsula actually has an amazing array of diving opportunities, from the rocky kelp forests in the north on the Pacific coast near San Diego to the only live coral reef on the western side of North America, Cabo Pulmo, on the Sea of Cortez between La Paz and Cabo San Lucas. The indigenous sea life is insane, including great white sharks, hammerhead sharks, tiger sharks, whale sharks, manta rays, dolphins, marlin, Humboldt squid, octopus, and whales. In some spots divers encounter sea lions frequently eager to play or gnaw the end of your fin.
I can’t wait to book my next trip: the Baja Peninsula has moved up to #1 on my “to dive” list. I’ll just wait until Jimena checks out of the hotel.