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Posts Tagged ‘Bahamas’
Dinner time!
With approximately 700 islands, over 2,500 cays, and 100,000 square miles of ocean, the Bahamas collectively comprise a massive scuba paradise. Grand Bahama Island, long one of the hubs of Bahamian tourism, is currently being rediscovered by divers and developers alike. Commerce and tourism has always centered on Freeport, the second-largest city in the Bahamas. But in the past few years, West End, Grand Bahama, is getting significant attention as well. Still, Freeport remains the home of most of the dive activity, and a true jewel in the crown of Bahamian diving.
Diving Grand Bahama is a lesson in diversity, from outrageous walls to high-octane animal encounters, shallow- to medium-depth reefs, excellent wrecks and even freshwater caverns. There is also an array of specialty dive programs like shark feeding dives, dolphin dives, diving with rebreathers, and riding underwater scooters. While the walls bordering the island’s south coast are accessible to casual divers, depths can exceed recreational limits. Most diving is done on shallow- to medium-depth reefs, where several excellent wrecks are found. Winter water temps drop to the 70s, while summer temps peak in the high 80s. The seas are calm year-round, except during winter storms. Visibility averages 80 to 100 feet. Some of the dive highlights around Grand Bahama Island include:
Cave Diving – The expansive Lucayan cavern system honeycombs Grand Bahama and offers several points of access at both inland and oceanic blue holes. Advanced divers can explore spectacular sites such as Ben’s Cavern, a sinkhole located in the Lucayan Caves National Park. Here stalactites and stalagmites provide dramatic underwater scenery while migratory bats steal the show topside. Other caverns to explore include, Owl’s Hole and Mermaids Lair.
Shark diving/Shark feeding – In scuba diving circles, the Bahamas are pretty well known for their sharks. Divers commonly see black tips, white tips, grey reef, and nurse sharks on dives. The only way to pack more of them into a dive is to feed them, which is what several companies have started offering in the Bahamas. Venture to a depth of 50 feet where instructors in protective chain mail lure dozens of sharks into close range with tasty tidbits.
Dolphin experiences – A company called UNEXSO offers “The Dolphin Experience,” the chance to scuba dive with one or more of its resident dolphins out in the open ocean. The company houses 16 bottlenose dolphins maintained in an enclosure at Sanctuary Bay, 10 of which have been born in captivity. If wild dolphins are more of your thing, White Sand Ridge north of West End, Grand Bahama won’t disappoint. Here, bottlenose dolphins are commonly seen rooting around in the shallow sand bank, and a resident pod of spotted dolphins is frequently seen.
Theo’s Wreck – Purposefully sunk in 1982 to create an artificial reef, Theo’s Wreck is located just east of Xanadu Beach. The wreck is about 230 feet long and rests on a flat sandy patch of the ocean floor on its port side, between the deep reef and the drop-off at a depth of about 101 feet. Over the past two decades the structure has become a haven for a mass of marine life. The wreck is intact and is covered in a blanket of yellow and orange cup corals and pink and red sponges, as well as colorful algae. The bow anchor chain in particular has splendid gorgonian sea fans. The shaded part of the hull is completely smothered in orange false gorgonians. Sea life found here includes barracuda, parrotfish, angelfish, snappers and moray eels. At the nearby reef drop-off, divers are likely to find larger fish and turtles.
Many consider the Exuma Cays to be the most beautiful chain of islands in the Bahamas. These islands are the very definition of “tropical paradise” with turquoise waters lapping miles of white sand beaches and secluded anchorages. The Exumas comprise 365 cays spread over 120 miles. The cays themselves vary in size and terrain: some are low and barren with white sandy beaches; others have rolling hills covered with dense vegetation and small trees. The largest of the cays, and the only one with any significant population, is Great Exuma, which is 37 mi (60 km) in length. The northernmost islands are under an hour away from Nassau by speedboat and many tour operators offer day trips. George Town on Great Exuma has the only airport in the islands, which receives flights from Miami, Ft. Lauderdale and Nassau.
Water visibility ranges from 80 to 150 feet, depending on the site. There are a wide variety of underwater opportunities to cater to every taste, including drift dives, shallow reefs and deep reefs, walls, tunnels and swim throughs, and even blue holes to explore. Expect to see large ocean-going fish like sharks, eagle rays, barracuda, along with standard reef fish and invertebrates like colorful nudibranches. Healthy stands of black coral, elkhorn coral, and staghorn coral can be found at numerous sites.
A dramatic drop-off runs parallel to the islands along Exuma Sound on the eastern side. The wall starts in about 50 feet of water and plummets to several thousand. The edge contains huge caverns, tunnels, and large fish of numerous species.
Just inside the wall are areas of reef formations in 20-60 feet of water. These reefs vary from shallow coral gardens to tall coral heads on white sand. These shallower dives yield hundreds of species from the smallest nudibranchs and shrimp to the larger reef fishes such as barracudas and sharks.
To the west of the Exumas, the Great Bahama Bank ranges 40 miles. Only 40 feet deep, these shallow coral reefs teem with tropical fish. The tidal flow creates strong currents between the islands – ideal for drift dives over a mile in length.
Some of the more interesting dives include:
Thunderball Grotto – This impressive hollowed out island close to Staniel Cay is an underwater paradise teaming with tropical fish, rare sponges and corals. This setting was used for scenes from James Bond’s “Thunderball” and “Never Say Never Again” as well Disney’s “Splash”. Weave through the grotto’s many entrances and passageways, then escape to the outside through its holes. Gaze skyward when inside the amphitheater to see light streaming through the roof where rain has eroded natural skylights.
Wax Cay Cut – A high velocity drift dive, considered by many to be one of the finest in the Caribbean. Fly like Superman at speeds of over 2 knots past vibrant corals and sea fans. You will see rays, sharks, eels and numerous fish as you drift with the current in this cut between the islands. The sheer density of staghorn, pillar and finger corals is amazing. There are several other drifts dives in Exuma such as Hammerhead Gulch and Coral Cut, but none quite as impressive as this.
Dog Rock Wall – Hundreds of Atlantic spadefish call this spot home. Glass minnows choke the swim-throughs that lead to the wall. Massive black coral trees decorate the wall face.
Angelfish Blue Hole – Just off Elizabeth Harbour, rising and falling tides create an ever-moving current through this cavern, attracting a huge variety of fish. The site drops from 30 to 90 feet before entering a cave system best left to certified cave divers. However, the schooling fish and large angelfish that occupy the blue hole are magnificent.
Amberjack Reef – A patch reef where you are sure to see a number of different types of sharks including Caribbean Reef sharks and nurse sharks due to the numerous operators who feed them. Large black groupers also ply the area looking for a handout.
The Washing Machine – The strong incoming tide takes scuba divers through a narrow cut where water drops off a ledge and then makes a sharp bend to the left. This causes the water to swirl like the water in a washing machine, sometimes tossing scuba divers head over heels. After passing through the cut, divers swim out over a large patch reef filled with typical tropical fish and coral.
The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park – This site is part of the Bahamas National Trust, encompassing 176 square miles of pristine diving in which all living creatures are protected. These waters have been managed as a no-take marine fishery reserve since 1986. This has allowed populations of commercially important species such as queen conch, Nassau grouper and spiny lobster to thrive. In addition, sea turtles swim throughout the coral reefs that teem with marine life.
Located some 60 miles east of Nassau, Eleuthera and Harbour Island feature both peaceful topside scenery and underwater adrenaline rushes. Wrecks, reefs, and inland blue holes, make these islands fun to dive, but by far the highlight is the Current Cut, a 10 knot drift dive, the fastest in the Caribbean. Divers are dropped off at one end by the dive boat then fly past large coral heads and colorful filter feeders until the tidal channel spits them out the other side.
There is a concentration of excellent wrecks near Harbor Island. The Devil’s Backbone off nearby Spanish Wells has claimed many ships over the years, and at least one train. The train was aboard a barge that sank during the Civil War and can be dived in 30 feet of water. Other wrecks include a 200-foot freighter from 1919 and the wreck of a 265-foot freighter that sank in 1971.
Other interesting dive sites in Eleuthera and Harbour Island include:
Plateau: 45-100ft. Rolling coral mounds, undercut by ledges
The Arch: A giant arch of coral that forms a nearly concealed grotto
Current Cut: Divers ride the current through a marine menagerie of fish and Eagle Rays
The Pinnacles: 100 ft. Dive on a cavernous mountain of coral
Carnavon: 35 ft. This intact 200-foot freighter sank in 1919
Smuggler’s Plane Wreck – 70ft. Drug smuggler’s four-passenger plane covered in soft corals and fish
The main island of Eleuthera is a destination for those interested in history and nature. Natural attractions include the Glass Window Bridge, Hatchet Bay caves and Surfer’s Beach in the north, and Ocean Hole and Lighthouse Beach at the south end. Preacher’s Cave on the north end was home to the Eleutherian Adventurers in the mid-17th century, and recent excavations have uncovered Arawak remains at the site. There is not a lot of nightlife on these islands, but after all of the diving and topside exploring, you’ll be asleep before the sun fully sets.