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September 9, 2010, 3:00 am
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    Hawaiian  green beauty...

    Hawaiian green beauty...

    Every diver has favorite things they like to see underwater.  For some its sharks, for others rays, but for many people turtles top the list of fun aquatic finds.  The Green Turtle (Chelonia Mydas) in particular has been a scuba favorite for years due to its good looks and reef-dweling nature. 

    Despite their name, Green Turtles are actually a light color all over, with the shell ranging in color from olive green to black, depending on where the turtle lives.  Green turtles are migratory animals, traveling thousands of miles each year to nest.  In fact, they only nest on the very beach they were born, so in order to lay eggs, they must return to that same beach.

    Green turtles are on the endangered species list and therefore protected in most countries around the world.  Besides humans, the tiger shark is a Green turtle’s main predator.  Adult green turtles can grow to 5 feet long and weigh over 500 pounds, so sharks tend to target younger specimens for snacks.

    So if you are determined to dive with these beauties in the wild, where can you go for a guaranteed sighting?  The range of the sea turtle extends throughout tropical and subtropical seas around the world, with two distinct populations in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.  Interestingly, green turtles react differently to scuba divers depending on their location.  On one side of Oahu turtles are curious and friendly, while on the opposite shore they jet the moment they see you, so two different dive sites around the same island can produce very different results.  When visiting green turtle waters, it’s important to get the input of the locals to find the best locations for healthy, long-lasting viewing.  But planning a trip to a locale with a concentration of these green jewels is the first step.

    Atlantic

    In the Caribbean, major nesting sites have been identified on Aves Island, the U.S. Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico and Tortuguero in Costa Rica. Within United States waters, minor nesting sites have been noted in the states of Georgia, North and South Carolina.  Florida attracts them in droves especially near Hutchinson Island, Indian River Lagoon, the Florida Keys, Florida Bay, Homosassa, Crystal River and Cedar Key.  In South America green turtles enjoy the waters off Surinam and French Guiana as well as around the island of Ascension.

    Pacific & the Indian Ocean

    In Mexico, green turtles are found in seagrass pastures in the Gulf of California.  They are found throughout the Hawaiian Islands, most notably in Oahu and Lanai and west in the waters of the French Frigate Shoals.  The Turtle Islands of the Philippines and the Meru Betiri National Reserve in East Java, Indonesia boast healthy populations.  Green turtles are scattered throughout the Great Barrier Reef, but exist in high concentrations around Raine Island.  The waters around Madagascar support Africa’s population of green turtles.  The Arabian Sea also attracts the turtles, especially in Ash Sharqiyah, Oman and Karachi, Pakistan.  In the same area, the waters surrounding Astola Island, a large nesting site, have plenty of green turtles to fill your bottom time.

    The Vandenburg

    The Vandenburg

    There is more to Key West than dive bars.  Most people don’t realize that one of Florida’s biggest party towns actually has a lot of scuba options if you can stay sober long enough to seek them out.  Key West’s largest and most pristine reefs are located several miles off shore, making a dive boat a must.  Those willing to venture a little further still can also enjoy the dive opportunities in the Lower Keys, especially pristine Looe Key Reef, a protected site teeming with sea life that know nobody is going to eat them.  Interesting sites include:

    Looe Key Reef – The coral reef of Looe Key has been afforded special protection since 1981. Since then, all spearfishing, coral collection, and even lobstering have been banned there.  The site’s namesake, the frigate H.M.S. Looe, accidentally ran hard aground there in 1744; remains of the ship lie between two fingers of coral near the eastern end of the reef although only the ballast and anchor are visible.  One unusual aspect of Looe Key is that a complete reef ecosystem is found there, from a rubble ridge of ancient fossilized corals, to a reef flat comprised of turtle grass, to a fore reef made up of large star and brain corals arranged in a spur-and-groove coral formation sloping from 20 to 40 feet. There is even a deep reef which slopes to more than 100 feet, providing a great opportunity to view the pelagic species of the Florida Keys, including eagle rays, turtles and every once in awhile a whale shark or manta ray.  But don’t miss the main attraction looking for big game: more varieties of tropical marine species are found at Looe Key than perhaps anywhere else in the hemisphere, placing most of the of action right in front of your mask. 

    Adolphus Bush – This former island freighter was purchased by the local dive community with the generous assistance of Adolphus Busch IV, and sunk upright and intact in just 100 feet of water some seven miles southwest of Big Pine Key in December 1998.  Before sinking, the ship was well cleaned and prepared for divers, including the opening of several large holes for penetration. The ship is 210 feet long and the maximum depth is 110 feet, making it an Intermediate to Advanced level dive.  There is some marine growth on the wreck, but the highlight is the ship itself, as well as the schools of fish that are starting to use it as a playground.

    Sand Key – From the surface, Sand Key looks like a pile of shells topped with a jaunty red lighthouse hat.  But, underwater the view gets much more idylic.  The reef itself consists mostly of rock fingers and gullies with sandy bottoms between cliff-like structures and extensive areas of staghorn and elkhorn coral.  This site reaches to 65 feet and teems with endless expanses of colorful tropical fish and macro photography opportunities.  Though popular, this location is so large that dive boats can spread out, and fish always outnumber divers.

    Alexander’s Wreck – commercial salver Chet Alexander purchased this ship from the Navy and sunk it to form an artificial reef.  The wreck lies on its side and is broken in half, with the stern section lying 150 yards or so north of the bow, which is awash on most tides.  The hull is covered with Leavy oysters and the surrounding waters teem with what seems like unending schools of tropical fish.

    Joe’s Tug – This classic tugboat sits totally upright in just 65 feet of water, and offers a great opportunity for close encounters with Goliath Grouper, spotted morays, barracuda, and horse eye jacks.  Open access to the wheel house and aft deck make this an enjoyable dive.

    The Cayman Salvor -This 180-foot. steel hulled buoy tender, also known as the Cayman Salvager, was intentionally sunk as an artificial reef in 1985. She now sits upright with cavernous open holds providing refuge for baitfish and grunts, as well as a resident jewfish and green moray eel.

    Hoyt S. Vandenberg – So, how long to do you plan on staying in the Keys to dive?  At 523 feet in length and 10 stories high, the Vandenberg, the Key’s most famous artificial reef, will take you some time to explore.  Vandenberg sits upright approximately seven miles off Key West in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, its keel buried at 145 feet. The tops of the bridges, the communication center and the ship’s dish antennas are 40 feet from the surface of the water, perfect for beginning divers or deco stops. All dive spots along the top structure are open, free from obstruction and are easy to maneuver over and around during a dive.  The decks are 45 to 90 feet below the surface. There are holes cut measuring 8×10 feet on each side to allow divers to penetrate the decks horizontally. There are 18 stair towers, 11 elevator shafts and cargo hold shafts to give divers vertical access to the wreck. The 25 foot tall rudder and prop is a great deep dive at 150 feet for the advanced diver.

    Since being sunk to the bottom in under two minutes’ time on May 27, 2009, the second-largest ship in the world to be sunk as an artificial reef sits encrusted with species of soft corals.  Some 48 different species of shallow water and reef fish have taken up residency, such as parrotfish, goliath grouper, yellow and blue tangs, barracuda as well as deeper water dorado and the occasional sailfish attracted by clouds of bait that frequently school around the wreck. Gray angelfish and butterfly fish are routinely seen circling the anchor chain, while arrow crabs treat the whole thing like a jungle gym.

    Insane amounts of coral here...

    Insane amounts of coral ...

     Marathon and the Middle Keys offer lots to do and see underwater.  Most sites are extensive spur-and-groove formations, with some well-developed patch reefs thrown in for fun.   Coral can’t seem to get enough of the place, with elkhorn, brain, pillar, star, staghorn and (unfortunately) fire coral all growing in abundance.  Lobsters and moray eels are found at almost every site, and stone crab, those tasties of the deep, can also be spotted.  Though the area boasts some nice dive sites, an added bonus is its proximity to the rest of the keys, both north and south, making the scuba options almost limitless.  Some of the fun dives here include:

    Sombrero Reef – If you have gone diving in Marathon, chances are you have been to Sombrero Reef, a traditional favorite of the Marathon dive portfolio marked by a 140-foot lighted tower.  The site sports your typical spur and groove formation with wide channels of brilliant white sand separating towering coral heads.  Schools of grunt and snapper buzz the spot while solitary barracuda stand guard over their turf.  The best part of this site is a photo op at “The Arch” an 8-foot high natural coral bridge teeming with colorful coral and tropical fish.

    Delta Shoals – Eastward of Sombrero Light lies Delta Shoals, where a vast network of coral canyons fan seaward from a sandy shoal, offering great diving amid elkhorn, brain, and star coral heads. Like so many other Key sites, this one is pretty shallow – 25 feet max.  But the sea life is plentiful and the coral is healthy and colorful.  Two interesting wrecks lie in this area.  The Delta Shoals Barge behind the east end features typical shallow water soft corals and an abundance of fish life, perfect for snorkeling. The other is the Ivory Coast Wreck, a sunken slave ship lost in 1853, although little is recognizable any more.  Both wrecks offer plenty of places for sea life to move in and set up shop.

    Thunderbolt Wreck – Sunk intentionally as a dive attraction in March, 1986, the Thunderbolt now sits upright in 115 feet of water. Her superstructure is coated with colorful sponge, coral, and hydroid, providing refuge and sustenance to large angelfish, jacks, and a variety of deep-water pelagic creatures.  At 188 feet, this former lightning research vessel is the biggest and the best wreck in the Marathon area.  Divers can spend hours investigating the ship’s structure, including a large reel off the bow and enormous twin props perfect for photo shoots.  Large hatches off the main deck open into the engine compartments where it is possible to descend into the hull to 110 feet.

    Adelaide Baker – This historic steamship wrecked on January 28, 1889 while bound for Savannah with a load of sawn timber.  At the time of the ship’s demise, it was 153 feet long with a beam of 35 feet and a hold of 21 feet, though now what remains covers over 1400 feet of the ocean floor.  Divers of all levels can enjoy this shallow wreck, including two large steam-venting stacks that are still relatively recognizable.  The rubble strewn floor houses a nice array of macro creatures, especially those that like to hide in cracks and crevices.

    eagle-wreck-1

    The Eagle Wreck

    Islamorada is actually a village consisting of six islands including Plantation Key, Windley Key, Upper and Lower Matecumbe keys, and Long Key.  It is well known for sport fishing, as the bonefish, permit, tarpon, snook and redfish are abundant and almost always biting.  But anglers aren’t the only ones who go to Islamorada for the variety and volume of the fish.   Divers flock to the area’s high profile coral heads, broad ledges and wreck cracks and crevices that shelter snapper, grunts, goatfish, angelfish, jacks, porgies, hogfish, barracudas, lobsters, grouper, nurse sharks and moray eels. Islamorada offers a wide variety of shallow and deep coral reefs, mini walls, shipwrecks, and even an underwater habitat for scientific research, the Aquarius.

    Visibility in Islamorada waters is between 80-100 feet. The average annual air temperature is 80F degrees while the average water surface temperature is 75° F.  The warmest time of the year to dive is between July and August, but diving is done year round.  Examples of Islamorada dive sites include:

    The Eagle Wreck – This 287-foot ship was intentionally sunk in 1985 as part of the Florida Keys Artificial Reef Association program.  She sits in 110 feet of water, although parts of her structure start as shallow as 75 feet.   The ship rests on her starboard side, and is wrapped in encrusting sponge and coral and populated by huge schools of grunt, tarpon, silversides and jack, as well as cobia, jewfish, and nurse sharks.  The Eagle sits in water outside of the protective reef, so while visibility is incredible, the current can sometimes be strong.

    Conch Reef/Wall – Here the reef leads to a wall (rare for Key waters) that drops down to a depth of 100 feet.  A proliferation of barrel sponges call this spot home, from thimble sized versions up to larger than life specimens.  The depth is a nice change from other reefs in the Keys, and offers the chance to regularly see pelagic fish in the blue.  The current in this area can run from moderate to strong; in strong times it can be great for drift dives. This site is popular for good, year-round visibility.

    Pickles Reef – A long, narrow, spur and groove reef with plenty of opportunity to observe macro critters like flamingo tongue cowries and banded coral shrimp.  At a maximum depth of 25 feet, this spot is perfect for a long second dive with an underwater camera. If anyone can tell me why this site is named after a sandwich condiment, I would appreciate being enlightened.

    The San Jose and the Infante Wrecks – Two galleons belonging to the famous Silver Plate Fleet of 1733 were lost in a hurricane off the Keys and went down within a mile of one another, both in quite shallow water (15 feet).  Not much is left of the Infante except some timber planking originally from the ship’s deck and her uniquely shaped ballast stones. The San Jose collided with the sand flats, where her stern section disintegrated and became detached from the main hull which sank another 200 yards away with its ballast stones.  An easily-accessible window into history.

    Davis Reef – This popular outer reef on the edge of a flat shallow bank attracts huge schools of fish including grunts and schoolmaster snapper.  Several personable green moray eels have also added to this site’s fame.  Nurse sharks, turtles, parrotfish, angelfish, lobsters and other types of eels frequent this spot, giving visitors plenty to see.  Divers of all skill levels can appreciate the reef, which starts shallow and reaches down to 80 feet.  A statue of Buddha sits on a concrete block in the middle of the site, adding to the serenity of the dive.

    711519396305I often make the mistake of assuming that the best dive destinations require long plane flights and significant concessions in topside amenities.  The more I learn about the Florida Keys, however, the more wrong I turn out to be.  I originally set out to write a single post about diving in the Keys, but quickly realized that this scuba story is much too fantastic to tell in just one page. 

    The 120-mile Florida Keys island chain is home to the continental United States’ only living-coral barrier reef with more than 600 varieties of fish and more than 500 wrecks.  The Keys begin at the southeastern tip of the Florida peninsula, about 15 miles (24 km) south of Miami, and extend in a gentle arc south-southwest and then westward to Key West, the westernmost of the inhabited islands, and on to the uninhabited Dry Tortugas. The islands lie along the Florida Straits, dividing the Atlantic Ocean to the east from the Gulf of Mexico to the west, and defining one edge of Florida Bay. In 1990, the U.S. government established the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary to protect the marine habitat throughout the islands, which has promoted healthy reefs and abundant fish.  Diving there is easy, with visibility up to 120 feet and mooring buoys at almost every dive site, all of which are a short boat ride from shore.

    Since the Keys are laid out in a long line that stretches down Route 1, it is helpful to think of them in sections from north to south: Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon and the Lower Keys/Key West.  Though they all boast crystal clear water and topside fun, each part has unique diving opportunities to enjoy.

    Part 1: Key Largo – Route 1 Mile Marker 112 – 90

    Key Largo is only about an hour drive from Miami, making it perfect for travelers seeking instant gratification after touching down.  There is plenty of activity topside to keep a visitor busy.  Sport fishing is big there, with opportunities to catch sailfish offshore, bonefish along the Atlantic shallows, or redfish and tarpon in Florida Bay.  Also, Key Largo’s proximity to the Everglades makes it a great destination for kayakers, birders and other eco-tourists.  If shopping is more your thing, there a tons of quaint shops in the little beach villages along Route 1, many of which sell artwork and local crafts.

    Since 1960, Key Largo has been promoting marine conservation by limiting certain kinds of fishing and protecting its reef, so it is no wonder that the sea life is so prolific there.  Key Largo diving encompasses coral reefs, artificial reefs / wrecks, ledges, walls and centuries old shipwrecks.  Depths range from 18-120 feet.  The normal weather is sunny and warm with air temperature in the mid 80’s and water temperature ranging from the mid 80’s in the summer to the low 70’s in the winter. Though there are several deep-water sites, a major draw for the Largo reefs is the shallow depths, where a diver can get ample bottom time to study the area’s extensive variety of fish species.

    Key Largo has plenty of sites to keep a diver busy for days.  A few of the more notable spots include:

    Spiegel Grove Wreck – Ask a diver to name one artificial reef off the Florida coast, and chances are the Spiegel Grove will come to mind.  This 510-foot Navy transport ship was sunk in June 2002 as another intentional addition to the Key Largo area’s impressive list of shipwrecks.  After more than three years resting on its starboard side, waves from Hurricane Dennis pushed the ship into an upright position, where it still rests today at a depth of 45 to 130 feet.  Marine growth is coming along nicely, but the star of the show is still the ship itself, a positively enormous craft that really takes your breath away when it comes into view.

    The Elbow – This spur and groove formation reef boasts healthy corals and plenty of nooks and crannies for critters to shelter.  Though it is shallow, just 12-35 feet, divers find the abundant coral and multitude of fish hold their attention quite well.  The only way you could miss the site’s tons of resident moray eels and barracuda is if you stayed on the dive boat.  Several wrecks at this site, including a 752 ton Civil War –era steamer sunk in 1866, add to the location’s appeal.

    Key Largo Dry Rocks – The well-photographed Statue of Christ of the Abyss lifts its arms toward the surface at this shallow site, perhaps the most famous spot in the Key Largo Marine Sanctuary.  The statue was cast in Italy and donated to the Underwater Society of America by Egidi Cressi, an Italian industrialist and diving equipment manufacturer.  Many divers come to see and photograph the bronze statue, but the site has natural wonders to offer as well, such as incredible specimens of brain coral and classic coral fingers teeming with marine life.

    The Benwood – This wreck was an English-built cargo vessel that sunk in 1942 during WWII.  The stern lies in extremely shallow water, with the bow reaching down to about 45 feet.  There isn’t much coral growth here, but the wreck itself is interesting to explore, and divers are frequently accompanied by huge schools of grunt and porkfish.

    Molasses Reef – This spur and groove reef drops to 55 feet in water made crystal clear by the Gulf Stream.  High profile coral heads and massive congregates of tropical marine life define this popular reef.  Almost any tropical marine flora and fauna you can name can be found here.

    Bibb and Duane Wrecks – These twin 327-foot US Coast Guard cutters were sunk intentionally as dive attractions in 1987 as part of an artificial reef program sponsored by the Keys Association of Dive Operators.  The Duane lies upright with a slight list to starboard at a depth of about 100 ft. The Bibb overturned while sinking and lies on her starboard side starting at 95 feet.  Both are now are completely covered in colorful coral and gorgonians.  Divers beware, however, as swift currents sometimes sweep this site, taking it from an intermediate dive to an advanced one.

    Whether you think of Great White Sharks as ferocious or just misunderstood, you have to admit they are exciting animals. Due to their nomadic lifestyle and periodic deep water forays, we have limited knowledge about them, which perhaps adds to their mystique. We do know that these powerful sea-dwellers can grow to over 20 feet and live to upwards of 100 years. They are found in almost all coastal and offshore waters which have water temperature between 54 and 75 °F, with greater concentrations off the coasts of Australia, South Africa, California, the northeastern US, Mexico’s Isla Guadalupe, New Zealand and the waters of the Mediterranean. Their preferred habitat is the cooler, deeper waters of the ocean and the waters around oceanic islands and rocky outcrops where deep water is within easy reach.

    Great Whites are truly apex predators. They are capable of sensing the blood of an injured animal from over a kilometer away. Their Ampullae of Lorenzini organ, which enables them to detect and stalk the electromagnetic field emitted by the movement of living animals, can detect movement that generates as little as half a billionth of a volt. Though Hollywood has spectacularly portrayed them as preferring humans for lunch, they actually live on a diet of fatty fish and animals such as rays, tuna, smaller sharks, dolphins, porpoises, whale carcasses, seals, sea lions, and occasionally sea birds. Diving with Great White Sharks is certain to be on anyone’s list of Most Extreme Scuba. So, where can aquanauts meet these beauties eye to eye?

    • Farallon Islands, California, USA – The Farrallones are located 28 miles west of San Francisco. A protected National State Wildlife Refuge since 1969, the Farrallones are an important research spot for great whites. These islands are one of the few places in the world where great whites can be observed in predatory attacks upon seals, birds, and sea lions from dry land. But doesn’t getting in the water with them sound like such a better idea? Cage diving is offered from late-September through November. Divers are offered a tank/regulator or a hookah setup. Since random chumming of the water is illegal in the Refuge, operators often pull along seal “decoys” to attract the sharks. It is an amazing day trip from the city, with many of the operators leaving right from the tourist hub of Fisherman’s Warf.

    • Isla de Guadalupe, Pacific Coast, Mexico – Guadalupe Island is a volcanic island about 145 miles offshore of Baja Mexico, 200 miles south of San Diego. Due to the remote location of the island, this trip is done via a live aboard operation over multiple days. The island has a dramatic sheer rock wall extending hundreds of feet up into the air, as well as hundreds of feet into the ocean. The islands’ large population of seals attracts the white sharks in large numbers. The rocky outcrops of the islands have dramatic drop-offs around the edges that reach down into cool, deep water, also attracting our toothy friends. Visibility at this site is fantastic, up to 100 feet or more. Also, the water temperature ranges from 67 to 70 F, making it much warmer than some other Great White watching spots.

    • Dyer Island, False Bay, South Africa – South African Great White cage diving occurs mainly in False Bay and the Whale Coast. Dyer Island is a small, low, and rocky island located just offshore from Gansbaai in the Western Cape of South Africa. During winter, the warm Agulhas Current sweeps down from the Indian Ocean, meeting the cold Benguela Current, creating a temperate zone just off the South African coast – providing ideal conditions for the Great White Shark in particular. This island serves as a breeding ground for a wide variety of seabirds, while its neighbor, Geyser Rock, serves as a home for a large resident seal population. White Sharks are seen on a regular basis in the channel between the two islands (“Shark Alley”) where they feed on a variety of seals, seabirds, and penguins. As an added bonus, Great White sharks in these waters often display very unusual, but highly spectacular breaching when chasing their prey, which makes for some amazing topside photos.

    • The Neptune Islands, South Australia – The Neptune Islands sit on a shelf south east of Port Lincoln off South Australia. Grey granite and coastal loam make up these picturesque islands, which support an array of wildlife, including many bird species, a large colony of fur seals, as well as a colony of endangered Australian sea lions. Known as the place where the hit movie “Jaws” was filmed, the waters around these islands are a natural feeding area for Great Whites. Most shark diving here is done via a live aboard vessel. Operators practice cage diving combined with surface bait to give divers an unforgettable experience, sometimes with more than one Great White in sight at a time. The water is very cold here, but the shark action is definitely hot.

    • Lampedusa, Sicily, Italy –Have you swam off the coast of Sicily or found the offshore waters of Nice to be nice? Oh yes, there were Great White sharks there, and you didn’t even know it. Great White sightings are becoming more common in the Mediterranean, where a high concentration of nutrients attracts some of the whites’ favourite snacks: large pelagic fish, dolphins and turtles. There have been numerous sightings of the Whites along the Spanish, French, Italian and Croatian coasts, but by far the largest concentration of the sharks is in the channel between Sicily and Tunisia. As far as I can determine, no one does cage diving here because of the infrequent nature of the sightings. However, there are many dive companies that operate out of Lampedusa, Sicily, which puts you in waters with the highest density of Great White sightings in all of the Mediterranean. Divers have encountered large white sharks while diving in the open sea at Sicilian Channel sites such as Pantelleria, Malta, and southwest Marretimo. Though rare, these experiences are as amazing as you can get: no chumming, no decoys and no cage bars between you and the jaws of the Great White.

    Sexy Cephalopod

    Sexy Cephalopod

    Few creatures are as exciting to spot underwater as an octopus.  They are smart and good at camouflage, so finding one is always a treat.  Plus, they are just beautiful animals to see, with lots of color, shape and size variations.  These creatures come in a wide range of options, some as little as an inch, some as large as 16 feet across.  The octopus inhabits many diverse regions of the oceans around the world, especially coral reefs, and can exist in water depths from tidal pools all the way down to over 200 feet.  For defense against predators, they hide, flee quickly, expel ink, or use color-changing camouflage. Scientists say that most of an octopus’ behavior is learned, not innate, a minor miracle since their lifespan is so darn short (5 years at the absolute most!)

    There are about 300 recognized octopus species in the world, too many to cover in depth.  But, some are amazing, even by octopus standards, and are worth a mention:

    Mimic Octopus – This octopus only lives for 9 months, but boy it accomplishes a lot during that time.  This crazy cephalopod takes on the appearance of other species to scare off predators and find food.  Imagine a creature burying all but its eyes and two arms below the sand, leaving in view a long thin object with white and black bands running across the elongated body that looks just like the local sea snake.  Now you’ve got the mental picture of why the Mimic Octopus is so unique.  It usually imitates venomous species, like a lionfish, sea snake, or a poisonous flatfish, though people have also described it looking like a stingray, a crab, and other types of less lethal sea life.  Divers can find this octopus off the Indo- Malay archipelago, especially around Sulawesi.  Don’t worry though, it isn’t poisonous to humans.

    Caribbean Reef Octopus – The Caribbean Reef Octopus isn’t the best looking octopus out there, but if you have been scuba diving in the Caribbean and seen an octopus, chances are this is the most likely suspect.  It is common throughout the Western Atlantic, Bahamas, Caribbean and the coasts of northern South America. It is often found at night feeding on reefs and sea grass beds. They have a distinctive blue-green color with occasional mottled-brown markings. Because their blue-green skin is so reflective, they are easy to spot at night with dive lights. Like other octopus species, the Caribbean reef octopus is solitary animal and able to quickly change color using specialized cells in their skin known as chromatophores. They can weigh up to 1.5 kg, but have been known to wedge themselves into miniscule reef crevices and wreck holes.

    Wonderpus Octopus – The Wonderpus Octopus has got to be the sexiest cephalopod out there, with a striking color pattern of white bars and spots over a brown-red background.  It’s characterized by a small mantle (the part of the body that contains the mouth and vital organs), which is about an inch to an inch-and-a-half long, and long arms that measure about five to seven times the length of the mantle. Its patterns of spots (on the body) and stripes (on the arms) are unique to each individual adult wonderpus, making identification of a specific creature possible.  Divers can find the wonderpus in shallow waters from Bali and Sulawesi north to the Philippines and east to Vanuatu, and will fare best looking for the creature when it is most active in the twilight hours of dusk and dawn.  This creature is a relative newcomer to the fish identification guides, with the first identification happening only in 1980.  Go ahead, say it:  won-der-pus.  Even its name is sexy.

    Blue Ringed Octopus

    Blue Ringed Octopus

    Greater Blue-ringed Octopus

    – No discussion about octopi could be complete without mentioning the little one we love to hate, the Blue-ringed Octopus.  Unlike its southern brethren, the Blue-lined and Southern Blue-ringed octopuses that are found only in Australian waters, the range of the Greater Blue-ringed Octopus spans the tropical western Pacific Ocean. Greater Blue-ringed Octopuses can weigh between 10 and 100 grams, though the average is 55 grams. The blue-ringed octopus is the size of a golf ball, but its venom is powerful enough to kill humans, and no known antidote exists. Remember the James Bond movie Octopussy?  Yes, it’s that one.

    White-spotted Octopus – Humans have been watching the white-spotted octopus since 1826 when it was first spotted off the coast of Nice in the Mediterranean Sea.   It spends its adult life on the ocean bottom, and although divers usually see this octopus hanging out near-shore it sometimes it can be found much deeper.  This octopus has long arms, with the first arm pair being the longest and stoutest, and has shallow webbing among the arms. It also has a higher sucker count than most octopuses. This is a nocturnal creature, waiting until night to find its favorite snacks of clams and crabs.  The white-spotted octopus only lives for 1-2 years after which it goes out with a “bang” (literally) after a single breeding season. 

    Giant Pacific Octopus – This is the big daddy of all octopi, the Giant Pacific Octopus.  As the name would suggest, it is the largest species of octopus in the oceans, averaging 16 feet across and weighing an average of 120 lbs.  It is also the longest lived, at 4-5 years.  Divers can spot this behemoth from southern California, northward along the coast of North America, across the Aleutian Islands, and southward to Japan, though they usually hang out quite deep, typically at around 215 ft.   But just because they are big doesn’t mean they are beautiful: Giant Pacific octopuses have huge, bulbous heads and are generally reddish-brown in color. Like the other members of the octopus family, though, they use special pigment cells in their skin to change colors and textures, and can blend in with even the most intricately patterned corals, plants, and rocks.

    oil rigDiving an oil rig has always seemed a daunting task to me both in terms of accessing the site as well as taking on the monstrous-looking structure.  On the surface, many people find these rusty rigs to be an eyesore, a hulking man-made blight on the beautiful ocean surface. But, under water it’s a very different story.  The thick metal supporting beams of the oil rigs act as a magnet for a vast array of marine plants and animals, creating a kind of artificial reef, a haven for sea life in the middle of the open ocean. Twenty-three oil platforms breach the waters off the coast between Oceanside and Santa Barbara, with names like Eureka, Ellen-Elly and lots of other girly monikers.

    Diving the rigs requires special permission. All divers must sign a safety waiver, promising not to touch the structure or harvest any of the creatures that live on the beams.  Your best bet for easy, comfortable, and legal rig diving is to go with one of several companies take charter boats out to the platforms.  Anchoring is impractical due to depth, and tying off to the rig is prohibited. This type of dive is best handled by intermediate or experienced divers due to the conditions.  Surge is common. Visibility can be 10 feet one day, 100 the next, with 50 feet the average. Currents, too, are ever-changing and can be strong, but it’s nearly always possible to shelter behind pilings and girders. The best marine life is found from the surface down to about 80 feet. Prime diving season is generally June through December.

    And when I say ‘prime diving’ I really do mean prime.  The underwater structures are absolutely teeming with sea life.  Upon entry and exit divers usually see sea lions and dolphins, some which may even follow the divers around during the dive.  The structures themselves are covered wall-to-wall with strawberry anemones, enormous scallops and mussels, acorn barnacles, and a variety of sponges.  On top of all of that growth crawl, crabs, nudibranches, huge sea stars, multi-colored brittle stars, and scorpion fish.  In the water column swim a variety of fish including calico bass, sculpins, gobies, sheephead, jellyfish and garibaldi, California’s bright orange state marine fish.  Fish schools are common too, with hundreds of mackerels, groups of sardines and packs of halfmoons cruising the waters together.

    Ohhh...shiny

    Ohhh...shiny

    If a tree falls in the woods, but no one is there to hear it, does it make a sound?  If a person dreams up a gynormous yacht, but never builds it, do they get to claim they now have the biggest boat?  Belgium-based Emocean Yacht Design recently unveiled plans for an extravagant new mega yacht, tentatively called Project 1000, that — if built — would be the world’s largest vessel of its type. The key being “if built” of course.  The yacht would be a ridiculous 656 feet, and cost in the absurd range of $500 million to $900 million to build.  That means if you won both the PowerBall and Big Game lotteries, you still couldn’t afford this behemouth. 

    Of course, for all of that cash you do get some sweet perks.  For one, the ship does look sexy as heck.  In addition to good looks, the design includes a 100-foot swimming pool, health spa, nightclub, casino, a dual-level cinema, drive-in garage, two 98-foot day boats and a helipad with a hanger.  You can bring 44 of your best dive buddies with you wherever you go and also include 70 crew members, so you’ll never sail alone, or have to lift a finger while onboard.

    So, Emocean did get quite a bit of press for their announcement, but the reality is that no one has jumped up to order this luxury good yet.  Even when (if) they do, the company says it will take another 4 years from the date of order until completion.  Perhaps by then they will figure out how to squeeze in a dive shop onboard.

    squid caGet out your dive gear, fishing gear or marinara sauce.  The Giant Squids have fulfilled their promise of “I’ll be back!” showing up in huge numbers on the California coast off Newport Beach.  These charismatic cephalopods are averaging 30 lbs each, but some are up to 60 lbs.  That’s enough calamari in one animal to feed a family of 5 for a week, and still have some left over to pair with linguini for a Saturday snack.  Anglers have caught 400 of the beasts so far, though far greater numbers are still out in the ocean.

    Though the name ‘Giant Squid’ elicits visions of huge sea monsters with a chip on their shoulders and a bloodthirsty appetite, the official name of these beauties is Humboldt Squid (far less menacing, I grant you.) They can grow up to 100 pounds and 6 feet long.  They follow their food sources through the ocean, which explains their appearance on the west coast.  The squid have also recently been spotted off San Diego, Oregon and Washington.