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Archive for the ‘North America’ Category
One of the lorries on the deck of the Zenobia Wreck
Wreck diving offers a unique twist to the sport – the opportunity to see manmade achievements superimposed on the underwater world. Whether intentionally sunk or not, these structures provide a playground for ocean creatures and divers alike. Below are some of our favorite wreck dives here at Scuba-dive.org.
The Thistlegorm, The Umbria, Mid-East Gulf Region – Many novice divers visit Sharm-el-Sheikh in Egypt to enjoy some of the most colorful coral reefs in the world, but few are aware of the fascinating wreck diving that is also available here. The Thistlegorm, a British Merchant Navy ship that was sunk by German bombers in WWII, was bombed and sank here in 1941, forever destined to become a fascinating dive site rich in marine life. The 400ft long container ship filled with motorbikes, Bedford trucks and even Lee Enfield rifles sank when it was hit by a German bomb that blew a hole in the port side, igniting tank ammunition that was in the hold. The explosion ripped the roof of the ship backwards (rather like opening a tin of sardines) giving divers an inside display of the ships merchandise. This Red Sea dive site has got plenty to see both inside and out, with plenty of marine life around. Sightings of hammer-heads, jacks, trevallies and huge napoleon wrasses are reported here. The only drawback is the site’s busy nature, as it is not uncommon for 20 dive boats stationed above the wreck at a time. In neighboring Sudan, the Italian cargo ship Umbria was scuttled by its crew in 1940 at Wingate Reef after an attack by the British and hit the seabed along with its cargo of unexploded bombs, Fiat Lagunas and wine bottles. Both of these wrecks make up the most interesting dive sites to be found in the Gulf region.
The Blackjack, the SS President Coolidge, South Pacific – Some of the best kept secrets of World War Two lie immortalized beneath the Pacific Ocean. Off the shores of Papua New Guinea at Milne Bay lies the site of Blackjack, a former B17 Bomber aircraft and an intrepid former member of the US 5th Air Force. In 1943 the aircraft took off to attack the Japanese airstrip at Rabaul but crashed into the sea after hitting severe thunderstorms, leaving a relic which even today has remained almost intact. Papua New Guinea’s crystal clear waters and this mint condition aircraft wreck make it a topnotch spot to experience. At Vanuatu in the South Pacific, the SS President Coolidge offers several excellent dive sites of varying depths. Built originally as a luxury cruise liner, the vessel was being used to ferry reinforcements to nearby US bases during the second world war, before the explosion of two mines close to the island’s harbor heralded its final demise to the seabed. This massive luxury liner, built in 1931 converted into a Second World War troop ship, is more than 600ft long. Divers can explore it on both shallow and deep dives. To see the whole ship in its entire majestic splendor sitting at the bottom on the sea bed would require at least 10 dives. What you can expect to see other than the ship itself are heaps of military gear including howitzer cannons, a 10-wheel General Motors Corporation truck, jeeps, tracked vehicles, steering wheels and tires.
Fujikawa Maru, Truk, Micronesia – Yes, Micronesia is in the South Pacific, but Truk’s wreck diving so good it gets its own section. Truk Lagoon, Micronesia is a definite must on any serious wreck divers list. It holds the remains of the almost an entire Japanese fleet including 60 shipwrecks and dozens of sunken air crafts destroyed in 1944. Of these many wrecks to choose from the 7,000 ton freighter Fujukawa Maru is notable as one of the best. This specific wreck stands upright in shallow water, making the 437ft wreck pretty accessible. The bridge area with sake bottles, the engine room and wings in the hold covered in soft coral and frequently circled by grey reef makes this an exciting wreck to dive.
The Zenobia, Mediterranean – Head for Larnaca Bay in Cyprus to see one of the world’s most interesting wrecks. The Zenobia, a Swedish built ferry, has been lying on the seabed here since it sank in 1980 on its maiden voyage to Syria, after the computerized pump system for the ballast developed faults. The fact that the vessel was carrying £200 million worth of cargo including over 100 articulated lorries makes this a truly fascinating undersea treasure trove.
Felipe Xicotencatl, Laguna Mandinga, Patzcuaro, Cozumel – It’s best known for drift diving on sheer vertical walls, but you can enjoy wrecks in Cozumel, too. Take the Felipe Xicotencatl, for example, better known as the C-53. It was originally built as a U.S. Navy minesweeper, measuring 184 feet long with a 33-foot beam. In 1962, she was sold to the Mexican Navy for a dollar, converted to a gun boat and renamed the Felipe Xicotencatl C-53. She patrolled the Mexican Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico until 1999, when she was decommissioned, donated to the Cozumel Marine Park and laid to rest in 82 feet of water off Chankanaab. The marine park has recently restricted access there, so you dive it at your own risk, but it’s generally believed to be safe and she remains one of Cozumel’s most popular dives. Hurricane Wilma spun the C-53 around and broke her in two, and her average depth of 65 feet makes her a perfect second dive. Also upping the ante for wreck divers are two naval patrol vessels intentionally sunk just outside the marine park: the 85-foot Laguna Mandinga and the 42-foot Patzcuaro. At less than 40 feet, divers and snorkelers alike can enjoy them.
SS Yongala, Gothenberg, HMAS Brisbane, GBR - The SS Yongala is a 350-foot-plus luxury passenger ship and freighter that sits smack dab on the world’s largest reef. She went down in a cyclone and sat undisturbed in 50 to 100 feet of water 50 miles off Townsville for almost 50 years, until it was discovered in 1958. Today, it’s arguably one of the GBR’s most popular dive spots, an artificial reef sitting in the midst of the world’s largest real one, clouded by yellowtail demoiselles and Maori wrasse, sea snakes, turtles, grouper and the occasional tiger shark. A protected historic wreck, the Gothenberg isn’t intact but offers shallow depths (maximum 60 feet) for beginning wreck divers. Reef sharks are often seen in the area. Another popular Queensland wreck is the 440-foot U.S.-built, Australian guided missile destroyer HMAS Brisbane, which served in Vietnam and the first Gulf War, and now rests in 115 feet of water off the Gold Coast. Large holes have been strategically cut along the entire length of both sides of the ship to allow divers easy entry and exit. It is virtually impossible to get lost inside the ship or become entangled. Green wrasse, octopi, turtles, scorpion fish and many other interesting sea creatures can be found here.
USS Oriskany, Florida – If the idea of exploring the largest artificial reef in the world inspires you, head to the Gulf of Mexico and dive the USS Oriskany at Pensacola, which was scuttled here in May 2006. A former US navy aircraft carrier, the ‘Mighty-O’ enjoyed a naval career that began in 1950, serving in the Korean War as well as Vietnam. Much can be seen at shallow depths here including the vessel’s gun platforms. But, for a more close encounter with the wreck, the Oriskany dive is a deep dive.
More Wrecks than You can Count, Bahamas – The Bahamas-assembled from more than 700 sandy spits of land sprinkled over an ocean area the size of Wyoming-forms the bottom leg of the Bermuda Triangle. It’s no wonder the islands offer some of the region’s best wreck diving. Off New Providence-home to Nassau and two-thirds of the Bahamas’ population-there are a handful of interesting wrecks tended by a rather sizeable population of reef sharks. Offerings here include the Willaurie, the “Bond” wrecks (movie props including the Tears of Allah from Never Say Never Again and Vulcan bomber from Thunderball), Caribe Breeze, Bahama Mama, Steel Forest (actually three wrecks-the Captain Fox, Fenwick Stirrup and the Manana) and Ray of Hope. The Hope is both a wreck and a big animal encounter-Stuart Cove’s does a very enthusiastic shark feed on it. Other greats include Bimini’s Sapona and Bimini Barge and Grand Bahama’s Theo’s Wreck and Sugar Wreck.
HMCS Yukon, John C. Butler, The Delphy, Chauncey II, Fuller, Woodbury III, S.P. Lee, Nicholas and the Young, California – The sinking of the 366-foot Canadian destroyer HMCS Yukon to create an artificial reef in 2000-the West Coast’s biggest-may have shined new light on the Golden State’s wreck offerings, but local divers have been enjoying dozens of submerged boats for decades. Not too far from the Yukon is the S-37, a 219-foot steel submarine that saw some action in the Pacific Theater during World War II. Her infamously cramped quarters and leaking engine made her despised by her crew. She was ultimately depth-charged by her foes and, as a final insult, used for aerial target practice in 1945, sinking in 30 feet of water off Imperial Beach. The 306-foot destroyer escort John C. Butler sits off San Clemente Island in 60 to 80 feet of water, another war veteran that fought in famed battles including those in Palau, Peleliu, Leyte Gulf, Iwo Jima and Okinawa. Another interesting dive is the 100-foot El Rey, which harvested kelp off Southern California and logged more than 800,000 miles. Near Lompoc, in what is generally considered to be the worst peacetime disaster in U.S. Naval history, seven destroyers wrecked on the rocky reefs at Point Pedernales. The Delphy, Chauncey II, Fuller, Woodbury III, S.P. Lee, Nicholas and the Young are all 314-foot steel destroyers lying in depths above 40 feet with visibility ranging from nil to 50 feet.
Harlequin Shrimp
Maui seems to get more popular every year, and for good reason. The number of direct flights from the mainland is on the rise, as is the availability of amenities and comforts on this tiny Hawaiian island. But make no mistake – this green gem’s influx of visitors hasn’t dulled its appeal. This tropical paradise continues to delight with beauty both above, and below the waves.
You may very well find yourself here without a thought to the many underwater opportunities, but now that your husband/wife/significant other/kids/friends/etc. have gotten you to the sandy fringes, why not check out the opportunities in the depths?
Maui diving can loosely be broken out into four related but unique diving experiences: Molokini, Southwest Maui, North Maui and Lanai. You won’t be diving any unchartered territory here, but there’s a good reason divers come back year after year to experience what Maui’s waters have to offer.
Molokini
Molokini is a small islet formed by an extinct volcano lying 3 miles off the south Maui coastline. Molokini Crater, is a marine reserve below water and bird sanctuary above. Molokini consists of several dive sites all around the islet ranging from anchor dives to drift dives.
The visibility on this reef system averages 100+ feet and provides a panoramic view of the marine ecosystem. Frequently, manta rays, white tip reef sharks, amberjacks and moray eels are sighted. Harlequin shrimp take residence around coral heads and Triton’s trumpets and nudibranchs are found nestled in crevices. Hawaiian garden eels, masked angelfish, long-nose hawk fish and many more fish endemic to the Hawaiian Islands can also be found here.
Did I mention that Molokini is also located inside the Maui Whale Sanctuary? Between the end of December and the end of April this trip affords a great opportunity to see humpback whales on the boat ride to and from the dive sites. Molokini has also seen visits from whale sharks, oceanic white tip reef sharks, and tiger sharks. Dive sites include: Reefs End, Reefs End Drift, Enenu’i, and Molokini Backwall.
Reefs End – An excellent dive at multiple depths. The top of the finger lies just below the waterline and drops down in terraces to hundreds of feet of water. If you go inside the crater you can find the Garden Eels and the Center Reef just beyond. The dive can also be done as a drift around to the backside of Molokini.
Molokini Back Wall – An amazing topography consisting of ledges and walls dropping down to over 200 feet of depth. 100+ of visibility is normal here. Currents run along the wall so the dive is done as a drift dive. You can see sharks, jacks, schools of butterflyfish, squirrelfish, and much more on this dive.
Whales, manta rays, and ocean white tip sharks have been seen here passing by.
South & West Maui
Southwest Maui scuba diving includes many different dive sites from La Perouse Bay in the south to Ma’alaea Bay in the North. Many consider Molokini a part of this dive site grouping, but I think the Crater warrants its own discussion, so it has been omitted here. That doesn’t mean, however, that there is nothing else to see in the south as well as the west. Wreck dive sites include: the St Anthonys wreck, the Landing Craft off the Maui Prince, the Tank and Landing Craft off Big Beach, The WWII Helldiver, the PB4Y out in deep water, and as of yet undiscovered WWII wrecks. For reef diving, fantastic options include: La Perouse Bay, Red Hill, White Rock, Wailea Point, 5 Graves, the 85′ and 110′ Pinnacles, the De-Gausing Station and more.
La Perouse Bay – This bay is a recent creation in Maui’s geologic history, formed when the last lava flowed on Maui about 200 years ago. This dive has an amazing variety of fish for its size – perhaps greater than any other site in the south. A lava rock pinnacle provides the basis for this protective habitat. All four species of Hawaii’s common angelfish can be found here, as well as many Hawaiian endemics.
Tank and Landing Craft – Remnants of World War II, these two wrecks are in 60 feet of crystal clear water off the coast of the Makena Golf and Beach Resort. Still recognizable after 60+ years underwater, eels have taken up residency in the pipes and barrels. A strange mix of weaponry and old ammunition are interspersed with a plethora of sea life. Schools of goat fish swim around the wreck, and octopus are regularly found here. The short swim from one wreck to the other over a sandy bottom offers an opportunity to find shells and sea biscuits.
St Anthony Wreck – In 1997 the St. Anthony, a 65 foot longliner fishing boat, was sunk off Mokapu Beach in Wailea, to a depth of 60-70 ft.to become part of Maui’s only official artificial reef. Along with the deposit of hundreds of concrete weighted tires in which over 50 species of fish have taken up residence, the marine animals have taken up residence, the area has become home to over 50 species of fish. A number of Green Sea Turtles also call the St. Anthony their home. They tuck under the hull, inside the holds and rest in all kinds of humorous positions on the cabin, using the vertical and horizontal bars to hang from and wedge themselves between. Two frog fish live on the deck, nicknamed “The Captain” and “Little Buddy”.
North Shore
Are you the more adventurous type? North Shore is for you. There’s not as much here, but it’s harder to get to so the crowds are absent but the fish are in abundance. There are lots of unnamed sites, but a few warrant citations here:
Turtle Caves – Half a dozen lava pinnacles rise from 70 ft. to about 10 ft. below the surface. Some pinnacles are hollow, some have caves, and some form canyons. They are covered with healthy hard and soft corals and house many sea creatures (including turtles).
Hidden Pinnacle – The Kahakuloa side of Maui has many hard-to-get-to adventure dive sites. This is one of them: a pinnacle that rises from a 120-ft. bottom to the surface. It’s covered with soft corals and sponge seldom seen on the leeward side of Maui. Swarms of plankton-feeding fish rise in the water column as the current, which is sometimes strong, brings new supply of food.
Lanai
The Cathedrals and more than 20 other dive sites at Lanai offer opportunities to enjoy the unique formations made when molten lava cools in the Pacific Ocean. Tubes, caverns, ledges and walls of lava make excellent backdrops for underwater photography and magnificent mazes for exploration. Reticulated butterfly fish, gold rim surgeon fish and flame angelfish are just a few varieties of the rare fish seen in Lanai’s waters. Turtles are found on many dive sites around Lanai and the plankton-rich waters frequently attract manta rays.
As a bonus, it is not uncommon to be escorted to and from the dive sites by spinner dolphins riding the bow wave. In season, roughly from the end of December to the end of April, this trip also offers an excellent opportunity to see Humpback whales.
Below is a listing of dive operators to check out if you are considering diving in Maui and don’t want to go searching all over the internet. I have personally dove with some of them, but not all, so I am not recommending one vs. the other. I also receive no benefit, monetary or otherwise, if you click on their link or dive with them. Happy Diving!
http://www.mauidiveshop.com
http://www.lahainadivers.com
http://www.bbscuba.com/
http://www.prodivermaui.com/
http://mauiunderwater.com Makena Coast Dive Charters
http://www.mauiscuba.com/ Ed Robinson’s Diving Adventures
http://www.scubashack.com/map.php3
http://www.mikesevernsdiving.com/
http://www.mauidiving.com/divespots.html
http://www.scubadivemaui.com/
http://mauidreamsdiveco.com/
http://mauisundivers.com/scuba/index.php
Sometimes fact is even funnier than fiction. The articles below represent some of the best ocean-themed headlines I have seen lately. Click on the headlines for pure reading enjoyment.
Penguin rescue operation under way after south Atlantic oil spill
The penguins are doing a great job. The hardest part was finding them little parachutes to wear.
Underwater Translator May Finally Let Us Talk to Dolphins
Yes, but do we really want to know what they are saying to us after watching the ‘Cove’
Branson: Deep-sea adventure will reveal ‘extraordinary creatures’
Because everything else in the sea is quite bland.
Experience the life aquatic in your own personal sub
I hope it comes in yellow.
Navy successfully tests prototype ocean-going laser weapon
James Bond would be so proud.
I’m a celebrity, rent my island!
I have a mortgage, kiss my ass!
Another active Atlantic hurricane season expected
Thank you, Captain Obvious, for this story as well as your prior article “Fish found in the Atlantic Ocean.”
Leaping sea creatures: Do we need bigger boats?
No, just better luck.
Four ways to have a whale of a time
Maybe it’s me, but does this sound like it belongs in the “Adult” reading section?
Gotta Watch: eagle ray pins woman
If you are doing something that puts you in a position to wind up with a 300-lb eagle ray on you, you probably shouldn’t be doing that activity in the first place.
Treasure hunters strike gold off Florida coast
Because if it was on the coast it would be called a robbery.
Hawaiian green beauty...
Every diver has favorite things they like to see underwater. For some its sharks, for others rays, but for many people turtles top the list of fun aquatic finds. The Green Turtle (Chelonia Mydas) in particular has been a scuba favorite for years due to its good looks and reef-dweling nature.
Despite their name, Green Turtles are actually a light color all over, with the shell ranging in color from olive green to black, depending on where the turtle lives. Green turtles are migratory animals, traveling thousands of miles each year to nest. In fact, they only nest on the very beach they were born, so in order to lay eggs, they must return to that same beach.
Green turtles are on the endangered species list and therefore protected in most countries around the world. Besides humans, the tiger shark is a Green turtle’s main predator. Adult green turtles can grow to 5 feet long and weigh over 500 pounds, so sharks tend to target younger specimens for snacks.
So if you are determined to dive with these beauties in the wild, where can you go for a guaranteed sighting? The range of the sea turtle extends throughout tropical and subtropical seas around the world, with two distinct populations in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Interestingly, green turtles react differently to scuba divers depending on their location. On one side of Oahu turtles are curious and friendly, while on the opposite shore they jet the moment they see you, so two different dive sites around the same island can produce very different results. When visiting green turtle waters, it’s important to get the input of the locals to find the best locations for healthy, long-lasting viewing. But planning a trip to a locale with a concentration of these green jewels is the first step.
Atlantic
In the Caribbean, major nesting sites have been identified on Aves Island, the U.S. Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico and Tortuguero in Costa Rica. Within United States waters, minor nesting sites have been noted in the states of Georgia, North and South Carolina. Florida attracts them in droves especially near Hutchinson Island, Indian River Lagoon, the Florida Keys, Florida Bay, Homosassa, Crystal River and Cedar Key. In South America green turtles enjoy the waters off Surinam and French Guiana as well as around the island of Ascension.
Pacific & the Indian Ocean
In Mexico, green turtles are found in seagrass pastures in the Gulf of California. They are found throughout the Hawaiian Islands, most notably in Oahu and Lanai and west in the waters of the French Frigate Shoals. The Turtle Islands of the Philippines and the Meru Betiri National Reserve in East Java, Indonesia boast healthy populations. Green turtles are scattered throughout the Great Barrier Reef, but exist in high concentrations around Raine Island. The waters around Madagascar support Africa’s population of green turtles. The Arabian Sea also attracts the turtles, especially in Ash Sharqiyah, Oman and Karachi, Pakistan. In the same area, the waters surrounding Astola Island, a large nesting site, have plenty of green turtles to fill your bottom time.
The Vandenburg
There is more to Key West than dive bars. Most people don’t realize that one of Florida’s biggest party towns actually has a lot of scuba options if you can stay sober long enough to seek them out. Key West’s largest and most pristine reefs are located several miles off shore, making a dive boat a must. Those willing to venture a little further still can also enjoy the dive opportunities in the Lower Keys, especially pristine Looe Key Reef, a protected site teeming with sea life that know nobody is going to eat them. Interesting sites include:
Looe Key Reef – The coral reef of Looe Key has been afforded special protection since 1981. Since then, all spearfishing, coral collection, and even lobstering have been banned there. The site’s namesake, the frigate H.M.S. Looe, accidentally ran hard aground there in 1744; remains of the ship lie between two fingers of coral near the eastern end of the reef although only the ballast and anchor are visible. One unusual aspect of Looe Key is that a complete reef ecosystem is found there, from a rubble ridge of ancient fossilized corals, to a reef flat comprised of turtle grass, to a fore reef made up of large star and brain corals arranged in a spur-and-groove coral formation sloping from 20 to 40 feet. There is even a deep reef which slopes to more than 100 feet, providing a great opportunity to view the pelagic species of the Florida Keys, including eagle rays, turtles and every once in awhile a whale shark or manta ray. But don’t miss the main attraction looking for big game: more varieties of tropical marine species are found at Looe Key than perhaps anywhere else in the hemisphere, placing most of the of action right in front of your mask.
Adolphus Bush – This former island freighter was purchased by the local dive community with the generous assistance of Adolphus Busch IV, and sunk upright and intact in just 100 feet of water some seven miles southwest of Big Pine Key in December 1998. Before sinking, the ship was well cleaned and prepared for divers, including the opening of several large holes for penetration. The ship is 210 feet long and the maximum depth is 110 feet, making it an Intermediate to Advanced level dive. There is some marine growth on the wreck, but the highlight is the ship itself, as well as the schools of fish that are starting to use it as a playground.
Sand Key – From the surface, Sand Key looks like a pile of shells topped with a jaunty red lighthouse hat. But, underwater the view gets much more idylic. The reef itself consists mostly of rock fingers and gullies with sandy bottoms between cliff-like structures and extensive areas of staghorn and elkhorn coral. This site reaches to 65 feet and teems with endless expanses of colorful tropical fish and macro photography opportunities. Though popular, this location is so large that dive boats can spread out, and fish always outnumber divers.
Alexander’s Wreck – commercial salver Chet Alexander purchased this ship from the Navy and sunk it to form an artificial reef. The wreck lies on its side and is broken in half, with the stern section lying 150 yards or so north of the bow, which is awash on most tides. The hull is covered with Leavy oysters and the surrounding waters teem with what seems like unending schools of tropical fish.
Joe’s Tug – This classic tugboat sits totally upright in just 65 feet of water, and offers a great opportunity for close encounters with Goliath Grouper, spotted morays, barracuda, and horse eye jacks. Open access to the wheel house and aft deck make this an enjoyable dive.
The Cayman Salvor -This 180-foot. steel hulled buoy tender, also known as the Cayman Salvager, was intentionally sunk as an artificial reef in 1985. She now sits upright with cavernous open holds providing refuge for baitfish and grunts, as well as a resident jewfish and green moray eel.
Hoyt S. Vandenberg – So, how long to do you plan on staying in the Keys to dive? At 523 feet in length and 10 stories high, the Vandenberg, the Key’s most famous artificial reef, will take you some time to explore. Vandenberg sits upright approximately seven miles off Key West in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, its keel buried at 145 feet. The tops of the bridges, the communication center and the ship’s dish antennas are 40 feet from the surface of the water, perfect for beginning divers or deco stops. All dive spots along the top structure are open, free from obstruction and are easy to maneuver over and around during a dive. The decks are 45 to 90 feet below the surface. There are holes cut measuring 8×10 feet on each side to allow divers to penetrate the decks horizontally. There are 18 stair towers, 11 elevator shafts and cargo hold shafts to give divers vertical access to the wreck. The 25 foot tall rudder and prop is a great deep dive at 150 feet for the advanced diver.
Since being sunk to the bottom in under two minutes’ time on May 27, 2009, the second-largest ship in the world to be sunk as an artificial reef sits encrusted with species of soft corals. Some 48 different species of shallow water and reef fish have taken up residency, such as parrotfish, goliath grouper, yellow and blue tangs, barracuda as well as deeper water dorado and the occasional sailfish attracted by clouds of bait that frequently school around the wreck. Gray angelfish and butterfly fish are routinely seen circling the anchor chain, while arrow crabs treat the whole thing like a jungle gym.
Insane amounts of coral ...
Marathon and the Middle Keys offer lots to do and see underwater. Most sites are extensive spur-and-groove formations, with some well-developed patch reefs thrown in for fun. Coral can’t seem to get enough of the place, with elkhorn, brain, pillar, star, staghorn and (unfortunately) fire coral all growing in abundance. Lobsters and moray eels are found at almost every site, and stone crab, those tasties of the deep, can also be spotted. Though the area boasts some nice dive sites, an added bonus is its proximity to the rest of the keys, both north and south, making the scuba options almost limitless. Some of the fun dives here include:
Sombrero Reef – If you have gone diving in Marathon, chances are you have been to Sombrero Reef, a traditional favorite of the Marathon dive portfolio marked by a 140-foot lighted tower. The site sports your typical spur and groove formation with wide channels of brilliant white sand separating towering coral heads. Schools of grunt and snapper buzz the spot while solitary barracuda stand guard over their turf. The best part of this site is a photo op at “The Arch” an 8-foot high natural coral bridge teeming with colorful coral and tropical fish.
Delta Shoals – Eastward of Sombrero Light lies Delta Shoals, where a vast network of coral canyons fan seaward from a sandy shoal, offering great diving amid elkhorn, brain, and star coral heads. Like so many other Key sites, this one is pretty shallow – 25 feet max. But the sea life is plentiful and the coral is healthy and colorful. Two interesting wrecks lie in this area. The Delta Shoals Barge behind the east end features typical shallow water soft corals and an abundance of fish life, perfect for snorkeling. The other is the Ivory Coast Wreck, a sunken slave ship lost in 1853, although little is recognizable any more. Both wrecks offer plenty of places for sea life to move in and set up shop.
Thunderbolt Wreck – Sunk intentionally as a dive attraction in March, 1986, the Thunderbolt now sits upright in 115 feet of water. Her superstructure is coated with colorful sponge, coral, and hydroid, providing refuge and sustenance to large angelfish, jacks, and a variety of deep-water pelagic creatures. At 188 feet, this former lightning research vessel is the biggest and the best wreck in the Marathon area. Divers can spend hours investigating the ship’s structure, including a large reel off the bow and enormous twin props perfect for photo shoots. Large hatches off the main deck open into the engine compartments where it is possible to descend into the hull to 110 feet.
Adelaide Baker – This historic steamship wrecked on January 28, 1889 while bound for Savannah with a load of sawn timber. At the time of the ship’s demise, it was 153 feet long with a beam of 35 feet and a hold of 21 feet, though now what remains covers over 1400 feet of the ocean floor. Divers of all levels can enjoy this shallow wreck, including two large steam-venting stacks that are still relatively recognizable. The rubble strewn floor houses a nice array of macro creatures, especially those that like to hide in cracks and crevices.
The Eagle Wreck
Islamorada is actually a village consisting of six islands including Plantation Key, Windley Key, Upper and Lower Matecumbe keys, and Long Key. It is well known for sport fishing, as the bonefish, permit, tarpon, snook and redfish are abundant and almost always biting. But anglers aren’t the only ones who go to Islamorada for the variety and volume of the fish. Divers flock to the area’s high profile coral heads, broad ledges and wreck cracks and crevices that shelter snapper, grunts, goatfish, angelfish, jacks, porgies, hogfish, barracudas, lobsters, grouper, nurse sharks and moray eels. Islamorada offers a wide variety of shallow and deep coral reefs, mini walls, shipwrecks, and even an underwater habitat for scientific research, the Aquarius.
Visibility in Islamorada waters is between 80-100 feet. The average annual air temperature is 80F degrees while the average water surface temperature is 75° F. The warmest time of the year to dive is between July and August, but diving is done year round. Examples of Islamorada dive sites include:
The Eagle Wreck – This 287-foot ship was intentionally sunk in 1985 as part of the Florida Keys Artificial Reef Association program. She sits in 110 feet of water, although parts of her structure start as shallow as 75 feet. The ship rests on her starboard side, and is wrapped in encrusting sponge and coral and populated by huge schools of grunt, tarpon, silversides and jack, as well as cobia, jewfish, and nurse sharks. The Eagle sits in water outside of the protective reef, so while visibility is incredible, the current can sometimes be strong.
Conch Reef/Wall – Here the reef leads to a wall (rare for Key waters) that drops down to a depth of 100 feet. A proliferation of barrel sponges call this spot home, from thimble sized versions up to larger than life specimens. The depth is a nice change from other reefs in the Keys, and offers the chance to regularly see pelagic fish in the blue. The current in this area can run from moderate to strong; in strong times it can be great for drift dives. This site is popular for good, year-round visibility.
Pickles Reef – A long, narrow, spur and groove reef with plenty of opportunity to observe macro critters like flamingo tongue cowries and banded coral shrimp. At a maximum depth of 25 feet, this spot is perfect for a long second dive with an underwater camera. If anyone can tell me why this site is named after a sandwich condiment, I would appreciate being enlightened.
The San Jose and the Infante Wrecks – Two galleons belonging to the famous Silver Plate Fleet of 1733 were lost in a hurricane off the Keys and went down within a mile of one another, both in quite shallow water (15 feet). Not much is left of the Infante except some timber planking originally from the ship’s deck and her uniquely shaped ballast stones. The San Jose collided with the sand flats, where her stern section disintegrated and became detached from the main hull which sank another 200 yards away with its ballast stones. An easily-accessible window into history.
Davis Reef – This popular outer reef on the edge of a flat shallow bank attracts huge schools of fish including grunts and schoolmaster snapper. Several personable green moray eels have also added to this site’s fame. Nurse sharks, turtles, parrotfish, angelfish, lobsters and other types of eels frequent this spot, giving visitors plenty to see. Divers of all skill levels can appreciate the reef, which starts shallow and reaches down to 80 feet. A statue of Buddha sits on a concrete block in the middle of the site, adding to the serenity of the dive.
I often make the mistake of assuming that the best dive destinations require long plane flights and significant concessions in topside amenities. The more I learn about the Florida Keys, however, the more wrong I turn out to be. I originally set out to write a single post about diving in the Keys, but quickly realized that this scuba story is much too fantastic to tell in just one page.
The 120-mile Florida Keys island chain is home to the continental United States’ only living-coral barrier reef with more than 600 varieties of fish and more than 500 wrecks. The Keys begin at the southeastern tip of the Florida peninsula, about 15 miles (24 km) south of Miami, and extend in a gentle arc south-southwest and then westward to Key West, the westernmost of the inhabited islands, and on to the uninhabited Dry Tortugas. The islands lie along the Florida Straits, dividing the Atlantic Ocean to the east from the Gulf of Mexico to the west, and defining one edge of Florida Bay. In 1990, the U.S. government established the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary to protect the marine habitat throughout the islands, which has promoted healthy reefs and abundant fish. Diving there is easy, with visibility up to 120 feet and mooring buoys at almost every dive site, all of which are a short boat ride from shore.
Since the Keys are laid out in a long line that stretches down Route 1, it is helpful to think of them in sections from north to south: Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon and the Lower Keys/Key West. Though they all boast crystal clear water and topside fun, each part has unique diving opportunities to enjoy.
Part 1: Key Largo – Route 1 Mile Marker 112 – 90
Key Largo is only about an hour drive from Miami, making it perfect for travelers seeking instant gratification after touching down. There is plenty of activity topside to keep a visitor busy. Sport fishing is big there, with opportunities to catch sailfish offshore, bonefish along the Atlantic shallows, or redfish and tarpon in Florida Bay. Also, Key Largo’s proximity to the Everglades makes it a great destination for kayakers, birders and other eco-tourists. If shopping is more your thing, there a tons of quaint shops in the little beach villages along Route 1, many of which sell artwork and local crafts.
Since 1960, Key Largo has been promoting marine conservation by limiting certain kinds of fishing and protecting its reef, so it is no wonder that the sea life is so prolific there. Key Largo diving encompasses coral reefs, artificial reefs / wrecks, ledges, walls and centuries old shipwrecks. Depths range from 18-120 feet. The normal weather is sunny and warm with air temperature in the mid 80’s and water temperature ranging from the mid 80’s in the summer to the low 70’s in the winter. Though there are several deep-water sites, a major draw for the Largo reefs is the shallow depths, where a diver can get ample bottom time to study the area’s extensive variety of fish species.
Key Largo has plenty of sites to keep a diver busy for days. A few of the more notable spots include:
Spiegel Grove Wreck – Ask a diver to name one artificial reef off the Florida coast, and chances are the Spiegel Grove will come to mind. This 510-foot Navy transport ship was sunk in June 2002 as another intentional addition to the Key Largo area’s impressive list of shipwrecks. After more than three years resting on its starboard side, waves from Hurricane Dennis pushed the ship into an upright position, where it still rests today at a depth of 45 to 130 feet. Marine growth is coming along nicely, but the star of the show is still the ship itself, a positively enormous craft that really takes your breath away when it comes into view.
The Elbow – This spur and groove formation reef boasts healthy corals and plenty of nooks and crannies for critters to shelter. Though it is shallow, just 12-35 feet, divers find the abundant coral and multitude of fish hold their attention quite well. The only way you could miss the site’s tons of resident moray eels and barracuda is if you stayed on the dive boat. Several wrecks at this site, including a 752 ton Civil War –era steamer sunk in 1866, add to the location’s appeal.
Key Largo Dry Rocks – The well-photographed Statue of Christ of the Abyss lifts its arms toward the surface at this shallow site, perhaps the most famous spot in the Key Largo Marine Sanctuary. The statue was cast in Italy and donated to the Underwater Society of America by Egidi Cressi, an Italian industrialist and diving equipment manufacturer. Many divers come to see and photograph the bronze statue, but the site has natural wonders to offer as well, such as incredible specimens of brain coral and classic coral fingers teeming with marine life.
The Benwood – This wreck was an English-built cargo vessel that sunk in 1942 during WWII. The stern lies in extremely shallow water, with the bow reaching down to about 45 feet. There isn’t much coral growth here, but the wreck itself is interesting to explore, and divers are frequently accompanied by huge schools of grunt and porkfish.
Molasses Reef – This spur and groove reef drops to 55 feet in water made crystal clear by the Gulf Stream. High profile coral heads and massive congregates of tropical marine life define this popular reef. Almost any tropical marine flora and fauna you can name can be found here.
Bibb and Duane Wrecks – These twin 327-foot US Coast Guard cutters were sunk intentionally as dive attractions in 1987 as part of an artificial reef program sponsored by the Keys Association of Dive Operators. The Duane lies upright with a slight list to starboard at a depth of about 100 ft. The Bibb overturned while sinking and lies on her starboard side starting at 95 feet. Both are now are completely covered in colorful coral and gorgonians. Divers beware, however, as swift currents sometimes sweep this site, taking it from an intermediate dive to an advanced one.
Whether you think of Great White Sharks as ferocious or just misunderstood, you have to admit they are exciting animals. Due to their nomadic lifestyle and periodic deep water forays, we have limited knowledge about them, which perhaps adds to their mystique. We do know that these powerful sea-dwellers can grow to over 20 feet and live to upwards of 100 years. They are found in almost all coastal and offshore waters which have water temperature between 54 and 75 °F, with greater concentrations off the coasts of Australia, South Africa, California, the northeastern US, Mexico’s Isla Guadalupe, New Zealand and the waters of the Mediterranean. Their preferred habitat is the cooler, deeper waters of the ocean and the waters around oceanic islands and rocky outcrops where deep water is within easy reach.
Great Whites are truly apex predators. They are capable of sensing the blood of an injured animal from over a kilometer away. Their Ampullae of Lorenzini organ, which enables them to detect and stalk the electromagnetic field emitted by the movement of living animals, can detect movement that generates as little as half a billionth of a volt. Though Hollywood has spectacularly portrayed them as preferring humans for lunch, they actually live on a diet of fatty fish and animals such as rays, tuna, smaller sharks, dolphins, porpoises, whale carcasses, seals, sea lions, and occasionally sea birds. Diving with Great White Sharks is certain to be on anyone’s list of Most Extreme Scuba. So, where can aquanauts meet these beauties eye to eye?
• Farallon Islands, California, USA – The Farrallones are located 28 miles west of San Francisco. A protected National State Wildlife Refuge since 1969, the Farrallones are an important research spot for great whites. These islands are one of the few places in the world where great whites can be observed in predatory attacks upon seals, birds, and sea lions from dry land. But doesn’t getting in the water with them sound like such a better idea? Cage diving is offered from late-September through November. Divers are offered a tank/regulator or a hookah setup. Since random chumming of the water is illegal in the Refuge, operators often pull along seal “decoys” to attract the sharks. It is an amazing day trip from the city, with many of the operators leaving right from the tourist hub of Fisherman’s Warf.
• Isla de Guadalupe, Pacific Coast, Mexico – Guadalupe Island is a volcanic island about 145 miles offshore of Baja Mexico, 200 miles south of San Diego. Due to the remote location of the island, this trip is done via a live aboard operation over multiple days. The island has a dramatic sheer rock wall extending hundreds of feet up into the air, as well as hundreds of feet into the ocean. The islands’ large population of seals attracts the white sharks in large numbers. The rocky outcrops of the islands have dramatic drop-offs around the edges that reach down into cool, deep water, also attracting our toothy friends. Visibility at this site is fantastic, up to 100 feet or more. Also, the water temperature ranges from 67 to 70 F, making it much warmer than some other Great White watching spots.
• Dyer Island, False Bay, South Africa – South African Great White cage diving occurs mainly in False Bay and the Whale Coast. Dyer Island is a small, low, and rocky island located just offshore from Gansbaai in the Western Cape of South Africa. During winter, the warm Agulhas Current sweeps down from the Indian Ocean, meeting the cold Benguela Current, creating a temperate zone just off the South African coast – providing ideal conditions for the Great White Shark in particular. This island serves as a breeding ground for a wide variety of seabirds, while its neighbor, Geyser Rock, serves as a home for a large resident seal population. White Sharks are seen on a regular basis in the channel between the two islands (“Shark Alley”) where they feed on a variety of seals, seabirds, and penguins. As an added bonus, Great White sharks in these waters often display very unusual, but highly spectacular breaching when chasing their prey, which makes for some amazing topside photos.
• The Neptune Islands, South Australia – The Neptune Islands sit on a shelf south east of Port Lincoln off South Australia. Grey granite and coastal loam make up these picturesque islands, which support an array of wildlife, including many bird species, a large colony of fur seals, as well as a colony of endangered Australian sea lions. Known as the place where the hit movie “Jaws” was filmed, the waters around these islands are a natural feeding area for Great Whites. Most shark diving here is done via a live aboard vessel. Operators practice cage diving combined with surface bait to give divers an unforgettable experience, sometimes with more than one Great White in sight at a time. The water is very cold here, but the shark action is definitely hot.
• Lampedusa, Sicily, Italy –Have you swam off the coast of Sicily or found the offshore waters of Nice to be nice? Oh yes, there were Great White sharks there, and you didn’t even know it. Great White sightings are becoming more common in the Mediterranean, where a high concentration of nutrients attracts some of the whites’ favourite snacks: large pelagic fish, dolphins and turtles. There have been numerous sightings of the Whites along the Spanish, French, Italian and Croatian coasts, but by far the largest concentration of the sharks is in the channel between Sicily and Tunisia. As far as I can determine, no one does cage diving here because of the infrequent nature of the sightings. However, there are many dive companies that operate out of Lampedusa, Sicily, which puts you in waters with the highest density of Great White sightings in all of the Mediterranean. Divers have encountered large white sharks while diving in the open sea at Sicilian Channel sites such as Pantelleria, Malta, and southwest Marretimo. Though rare, these experiences are as amazing as you can get: no chumming, no decoys and no cage bars between you and the jaws of the Great White.
Sexy Cephalopod
Few creatures are as exciting to spot underwater as an octopus. They are smart and good at camouflage, so finding one is always a treat. Plus, they are just beautiful animals to see, with lots of color, shape and size variations. These creatures come in a wide range of options, some as little as an inch, some as large as 16 feet across. The octopus inhabits many diverse regions of the oceans around the world, especially coral reefs, and can exist in water depths from tidal pools all the way down to over 200 feet. For defense against predators, they hide, flee quickly, expel ink, or use color-changing camouflage. Scientists say that most of an octopus’ behavior is learned, not innate, a minor miracle since their lifespan is so darn short (5 years at the absolute most!)
There are about 300 recognized octopus species in the world, too many to cover in depth. But, some are amazing, even by octopus standards, and are worth a mention:
Mimic Octopus – This octopus only lives for 9 months, but boy it accomplishes a lot during that time. This crazy cephalopod takes on the appearance of other species to scare off predators and find food. Imagine a creature burying all but its eyes and two arms below the sand, leaving in view a long thin object with white and black bands running across the elongated body that looks just like the local sea snake. Now you’ve got the mental picture of why the Mimic Octopus is so unique. It usually imitates venomous species, like a lionfish, sea snake, or a poisonous flatfish, though people have also described it looking like a stingray, a crab, and other types of less lethal sea life. Divers can find this octopus off the Indo- Malay archipelago, especially around Sulawesi. Don’t worry though, it isn’t poisonous to humans.
Caribbean Reef Octopus – The Caribbean Reef Octopus isn’t the best looking octopus out there, but if you have been scuba diving in the Caribbean and seen an octopus, chances are this is the most likely suspect. It is common throughout the Western Atlantic, Bahamas, Caribbean and the coasts of northern South America. It is often found at night feeding on reefs and sea grass beds. They have a distinctive blue-green color with occasional mottled-brown markings. Because their blue-green skin is so reflective, they are easy to spot at night with dive lights. Like other octopus species, the Caribbean reef octopus is solitary animal and able to quickly change color using specialized cells in their skin known as chromatophores. They can weigh up to 1.5 kg, but have been known to wedge themselves into miniscule reef crevices and wreck holes.
Wonderpus Octopus – The Wonderpus Octopus has got to be the sexiest cephalopod out there, with a striking color pattern of white bars and spots over a brown-red background. It’s characterized by a small mantle (the part of the body that contains the mouth and vital organs), which is about an inch to an inch-and-a-half long, and long arms that measure about five to seven times the length of the mantle. Its patterns of spots (on the body) and stripes (on the arms) are unique to each individual adult wonderpus, making identification of a specific creature possible. Divers can find the wonderpus in shallow waters from Bali and Sulawesi north to the Philippines and east to Vanuatu, and will fare best looking for the creature when it is most active in the twilight hours of dusk and dawn. This creature is a relative newcomer to the fish identification guides, with the first identification happening only in 1980. Go ahead, say it: won-der-pus. Even its name is sexy.
Blue Ringed Octopus
Greater Blue-ringed Octopus
– No discussion about octopi could be complete without mentioning the little one we love to hate, the Blue-ringed Octopus. Unlike its southern brethren, the Blue-lined and Southern Blue-ringed octopuses that are found only in Australian waters, the range of the Greater Blue-ringed Octopus spans the tropical western Pacific Ocean. Greater Blue-ringed Octopuses can weigh between 10 and 100 grams, though the average is 55 grams. The blue-ringed octopus is the size of a golf ball, but its venom is powerful enough to kill humans, and no known antidote exists. Remember the James Bond movie Octopussy? Yes, it’s that one.
White-spotted Octopus – Humans have been watching the white-spotted octopus since 1826 when it was first spotted off the coast of Nice in the Mediterranean Sea. It spends its adult life on the ocean bottom, and although divers usually see this octopus hanging out near-shore it sometimes it can be found much deeper. This octopus has long arms, with the first arm pair being the longest and stoutest, and has shallow webbing among the arms. It also has a higher sucker count than most octopuses. This is a nocturnal creature, waiting until night to find its favorite snacks of clams and crabs. The white-spotted octopus only lives for 1-2 years after which it goes out with a “bang” (literally) after a single breeding season.
Giant Pacific Octopus – This is the big daddy of all octopi, the Giant Pacific Octopus. As the name would suggest, it is the largest species of octopus in the oceans, averaging 16 feet across and weighing an average of 120 lbs. It is also the longest lived, at 4-5 years. Divers can spot this behemoth from southern California, northward along the coast of North America, across the Aleutian Islands, and southward to Japan, though they usually hang out quite deep, typically at around 215 ft. But just because they are big doesn’t mean they are beautiful: Giant Pacific octopuses have huge, bulbous heads and are generally reddish-brown in color. Like the other members of the octopus family, though, they use special pigment cells in their skin to change colors and textures, and can blend in with even the most intricately patterned corals, plants, and rocks.