The whales have no trouble finding Mozambique.

Mozambique. Just the name conjures up exotic notions of faraway lands.  When pressed, some people might correctly identify Mozambique as a country in Africa, but pinpointing its exact location would send most people scrambling for a good map.  Fortunately, droves of manta rays, whalesharks and humpback whales have no such trouble finding the waters off of Mozambique’s coast.

So many dive spots, so little time.  Mozambique is a country in southeastern Africa bordered by the Indian Ocean to the east, Tanzania to the north, to the west and South Africa to the southwest.  This little-known diving destination offers pristine beaches, warm waters and healthy, unspoilt reefs.  Much of the diving is done from the town of Tofo, a small but growing town in southeastern Mozambique right on the ocean.  Avid shark divers tend to gravitate south to the beaches of Ponta do Ouro and Mozambique’s top two shark reefs, Pinnacles and Pandaine Express.  The Island of Inhaca is also a popular spot for diving and snorkeling. Generally, the visibility is between 40 and 100 feet. The water temperature in the Indian Ocean varies from 23 to 29 C.

Diving with critters great and small.  By far the biggest diving attractions in Mozambique are the Manta Rays, Whalesharks, Humpback Whales and Dolphins:

• Rays can be spotted on almost every reef off of Mozambique year round. The waters boast a wide variety of rays, including the Giant Manta ray.  In 2008, a new, migratory species of manta ray was identified in the waters off of Mozambique.  Many scientists think that southern Mozambique hosts the largest population of manta rays in the world.  The rays are so plentiful that most dive operators, especially those out of Tofo, will guarantee manta ray sightings during dives.
• Whalesharks are mostly summer visitors with the best time to see them being November until April.  Whalesharks are gentle creatures – non-aggressive plankton feeders that can reach up to 12+m in length with average lengths of 8-9m in the Tofo area, which is the home the of largest concentration of whalesharks in Africa.  During November and March, the whalesharks are plentiful, with up to 20 individual sharks being spotted during 30 minute boat journeys. The whalesharks cruise along, at, or just below, the surface so divers frequently don their snorkel gear to see them.  Some diving outfits also work with local small plane operators who act as whaleshark spotters, which pretty much guarantees the chances of seeing one while there. 
• Humpback Whales visit the area from as early as June until as late as October. The whales spend the summer months in Antarctic waters feeding on large amounts of krill, and then migrate up the east coast of Africa to mate and give birth.  Male whales are often seen breeching the surface and slapping their fins in an effort to look sexy to the ladies in the surrounding waters.  While diving, it is possible to hear them “singing” to one another – a sound that can be heard from up to 2 km away.  
• Dolphins can be seen in Mozambican waters most of the year but June, July and August are the best months for them. There are various species of dolphins in the area including Bottlenose dolphins, Common dolphins and Humpback dolphins.  Dolphins are rarely seen alone but rather in groups known as pods – sometimes in very large numbers. Divers are frequently treated to dolphin sightings right at the bow of their dive boats as the creatures ride the water swell. 

Smaller, but no less beautiful… The Tofo area is rich in a diverse array of marine life, such as hard and soft corals, pelagic fishes, a multitude of colorful reef fish, sea turtles and green moray eels.  It is common to see Grey Reef Sharks, White and Black Tip Reef Sharks all along the coast, especially in the south.  Macro photographers will love the great diversity of shrimps, nudibranchs and even leaf fish to choose as photo subject matter. ]]> http://scuba-dive.org/2011/04/02/mosambique-mantas-and-whale-sharks-and-humbacks-oh-my/feed/ 116 http://scuba-dive.org/2010/05/12/a-diver%e2%80%99s-favorite-the-great-green-turtle/ http://scuba-dive.org/2010/05/12/a-diver%e2%80%99s-favorite-the-great-green-turtle/#comments Thu, 13 May 2010 01:06:25 +0000 admin http://scuba-dive.org/?p=440

Hawaiian green beauty...

Every diver has favorite things they like to see underwater.  For some its sharks, for others rays, but for many people turtles top the list of fun aquatic finds.  The Green Turtle (Chelonia Mydas) in particular has been a scuba favorite for years due to its good looks and reef-dweling nature. 

Despite their name, Green Turtles are actually a light color all over, with the shell ranging in color from olive green to black, depending on where the turtle lives.  Green turtles are migratory animals, traveling thousands of miles each year to nest.  In fact, they only nest on the very beach they were born, so in order to lay eggs, they must return to that same beach.

Green turtles are on the endangered species list and therefore protected in most countries around the world.  Besides humans, the tiger shark is a Green turtle’s main predator.  Adult green turtles can grow to 5 feet long and weigh over 500 pounds, so sharks tend to target younger specimens for snacks.

So if you are determined to dive with these beauties in the wild, where can you go for a guaranteed sighting?  The range of the sea turtle extends throughout tropical and subtropical seas around the world, with two distinct populations in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.  Interestingly, green turtles react differently to scuba divers depending on their location.  On one side of Oahu turtles are curious and friendly, while on the opposite shore they jet the moment they see you, so two different dive sites around the same island can produce very different results.  When visiting green turtle waters, it’s important to get the input of the locals to find the best locations for healthy, long-lasting viewing.  But planning a trip to a locale with a concentration of these green jewels is the first step.

Atlantic

In the Caribbean, major nesting sites have been identified on Aves Island, the U.S. Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico and Tortuguero in Costa Rica. Within United States waters, minor nesting sites have been noted in the states of Georgia, North and South Carolina.  Florida attracts them in droves especially near Hutchinson Island, Indian River Lagoon, the Florida Keys, Florida Bay, Homosassa, Crystal River and Cedar Key.  In South America green turtles enjoy the waters off Surinam and French Guiana as well as around the island of Ascension.

Pacific & the Indian Ocean

In Mexico, green turtles are found in seagrass pastures in the Gulf of California.  They are found throughout the Hawaiian Islands, most notably in Oahu and Lanai and west in the waters of the French Frigate Shoals.  The Turtle Islands of the Philippines and the Meru Betiri National Reserve in East Java, Indonesia boast healthy populations.  Green turtles are scattered throughout the Great Barrier Reef, but exist in high concentrations around Raine Island.  The waters around Madagascar support Africa’s population of green turtles.  The Arabian Sea also attracts the turtles, especially in Ash Sharqiyah, Oman and Karachi, Pakistan.  In the same area, the waters surrounding Astola Island, a large nesting site, have plenty of green turtles to fill your bottom time.

Great Whites are truly apex predators. They are capable of sensing the blood of an injured animal from over a kilometer away. Their Ampullae of Lorenzini organ, which enables them to detect and stalk the electromagnetic field emitted by the movement of living animals, can detect movement that generates as little as half a billionth of a volt. Though Hollywood has spectacularly portrayed them as preferring humans for lunch, they actually live on a diet of fatty fish and animals such as rays, tuna, smaller sharks, dolphins, porpoises, whale carcasses, seals, sea lions, and occasionally sea birds. Diving with Great White Sharks is certain to be on anyone’s list of Most Extreme Scuba. So, where can aquanauts meet these beauties eye to eye?

• Farallon Islands, California, USA – The Farrallones are located 28 miles west of San Francisco. A protected National State Wildlife Refuge since 1969, the Farrallones are an important research spot for great whites. These islands are one of the few places in the world where great whites can be observed in predatory attacks upon seals, birds, and sea lions from dry land. But doesn’t getting in the water with them sound like such a better idea? Cage diving is offered from late-September through November. Divers are offered a tank/regulator or a hookah setup. Since random chumming of the water is illegal in the Refuge, operators often pull along seal “decoys” to attract the sharks. It is an amazing day trip from the city, with many of the operators leaving right from the tourist hub of Fisherman’s Warf.

• Isla de Guadalupe, Pacific Coast, Mexico – Guadalupe Island is a volcanic island about 145 miles offshore of Baja Mexico, 200 miles south of San Diego. Due to the remote location of the island, this trip is done via a live aboard operation over multiple days. The island has a dramatic sheer rock wall extending hundreds of feet up into the air, as well as hundreds of feet into the ocean. The islands’ large population of seals attracts the white sharks in large numbers. The rocky outcrops of the islands have dramatic drop-offs around the edges that reach down into cool, deep water, also attracting our toothy friends. Visibility at this site is fantastic, up to 100 feet or more. Also, the water temperature ranges from 67 to 70 F, making it much warmer than some other Great White watching spots.

• Dyer Island, False Bay, South Africa – South African Great White cage diving occurs mainly in False Bay and the Whale Coast. Dyer Island is a small, low, and rocky island located just offshore from Gansbaai in the Western Cape of South Africa. During winter, the warm Agulhas Current sweeps down from the Indian Ocean, meeting the cold Benguela Current, creating a temperate zone just off the South African coast – providing ideal conditions for the Great White Shark in particular. This island serves as a breeding ground for a wide variety of seabirds, while its neighbor, Geyser Rock, serves as a home for a large resident seal population. White Sharks are seen on a regular basis in the channel between the two islands (“Shark Alley”) where they feed on a variety of seals, seabirds, and penguins. As an added bonus, Great White sharks in these waters often display very unusual, but highly spectacular breaching when chasing their prey, which makes for some amazing topside photos.

• The Neptune Islands, South Australia – The Neptune Islands sit on a shelf south east of Port Lincoln off South Australia. Grey granite and coastal loam make up these picturesque islands, which support an array of wildlife, including many bird species, a large colony of fur seals, as well as a colony of endangered Australian sea lions. Known as the place where the hit movie “Jaws” was filmed, the waters around these islands are a natural feeding area for Great Whites. Most shark diving here is done via a live aboard vessel. Operators practice cage diving combined with surface bait to give divers an unforgettable experience, sometimes with more than one Great White in sight at a time. The water is very cold here, but the shark action is definitely hot.

• Lampedusa, Sicily, Italy –Have you swam off the coast of Sicily or found the offshore waters of Nice to be nice? Oh yes, there were Great White sharks there, and you didn’t even know it. Great White sightings are becoming more common in the Mediterranean, where a high concentration of nutrients attracts some of the whites’ favourite snacks: large pelagic fish, dolphins and turtles. There have been numerous sightings of the Whites along the Spanish, French, Italian and Croatian coasts, but by far the largest concentration of the sharks is in the channel between Sicily and Tunisia. As far as I can determine, no one does cage diving here because of the infrequent nature of the sightings. However, there are many dive companies that operate out of Lampedusa, Sicily, which puts you in waters with the highest density of Great White sightings in all of the Mediterranean. Divers have encountered large white sharks while diving in the open sea at Sicilian Channel sites such as Pantelleria, Malta, and southwest Marretimo. Though rare, these experiences are as amazing as you can get: no chumming, no decoys and no cage bars between you and the jaws of the Great White.

Lounging Lionfish

Jacques Cousteau once said “The Red Sea is a corridor of marvels – the happiest hours of my diving experience have been spent there.”  Even today, many divers still agree that the dark blue waters of the Red Sea produce top-notch scuba experiences. 

Where is it?  The Red Sea is located between Asia and Africa. At its most northerly point forms the Sinai Peninsula and stretches over 1000 miles south to join the Indian Ocean, between Ethiopia and Yemen. In the north and west are desert plains, while in the south mountains reign.

How’s the water?  Water temperatures in the Red Sea remain unusually constant year round at about 72 degrees F. The open sea’s cooling effect creates an interesting temperature pattern: maximum summer temperatures are lower in the south while minimum temperatures are higher in the north with the opposite occurring during the winter. The coldest moth of the year is January and the warmest months are July and August. The Red Sea is notorious among seafarers for its high speed surface winds with aggressive irregular motions. Though it is usually calm on the inward shore, journeys to exposed sites like The Brothers islands, a remote off-shore site east of El Quseir, can be perilous.

What kind of sea life lives there?  There are over 1000 species of invertebrates and around 200 recorded coral types to be found. Moreover, the Red Sea boasts over 1000 species of fish, more species than any other proportional body of water. Encounters with schools of jacks, manta rays, napolean wrasse, large groupers, tunas, oceanic whitetip sharks and a variety of reef sharks provide some world class excitement. Ever-present lionfishes, angelfishes, butterflyfishes, tangs, anemone fishes and colorful groupers along with untold numbers of invertebrates give macro photographers plenty of first class subject matter.  In places, the reef stretches way out to sea, forming a elaborate system of caves, lagoons, gardens, and plateaus. Some of these coral summits plunge dramatically thousands of feet to the ocean floor.

What are the dive sites?  Featuring the national park of Ras Muhammed, just south of Sharm el Sheikh and Naama Bay, most of the diving in the Sinai is enjoyed on the walls bordering the east coast of this world-famous peninsula. Many other excellent sites are accessible from land from the city of Hurghada, however, live-aboards provide the best access to more remote locations and the most thrilling dives in the Straits of Tiran and at The Brothers.  The dive sites of the Red Sea are numerous, and vary greatly in terms of topography and sea life.  Since a discussion of Red Sea scuba opportunities could go on forever, this article focuses on just one part of this diving haven, the Gulf of Aqaba, the finger of water that extends northeast of Sharm el Sheikh to Elat in the north.  Saudi Arabia borders this gulf on the east while the Sinai Peninsula borders is on the west.  This part of the Sea can be divided two parts: Dahab in the south part of the gulf and Nuweiba in the north.

Dahab

Dahab lies alongside the deepest section of the African rift, the giant crack in the earth’s crust that formed the Red Sea. The jagged mountains above continue at much the same angle underwater, forming a dramatic seascape of valleys, canyons and caves. Most of Dahab’s dive-spots are geologically unique. Dahab diving is mainly shore based with easily accessible reefs right on the shoreline amongst the maze of coral islands. Due to the slightly colder water, coral growth is quite different than in Sharm El Sheikh. The dominant species are acropora, brain, stone, leather and black corals. Only occasionally you will come across soft corals. Marine life includes reef fish, blue spotted rays, jacks, snapper, barracuda, lionfish, turtles and an occasional reef shark. There are gentle reef slopes and coral gardens for beginners and some more challenging sites such as the Blue Hole or the Canyon for the more advanced. Some sites are so remote, they can only be reached by camel, thus prompting some local dive operators to offer one- and two-day camel-dive safaris.
Blue Hole – El Bells
Situated 12 km north of Dahab, this is one of the most famous dive sites in the Red Sea. The Blue Hole has an almost circular shape 150m wide and 110m deep and connects with the sea through a tunnel 26m long at a depth of 52 meters (for technical divers only). The best way to enjoy this dive site is by doing a drift dive starting at El Bells (situated 250m north) and finishing the dive in the Blue Hole. El Bells is a half open chimney that reaches a depth of 30 meters with a fantastic underwater arch. The wall there is covered with a rich growth of black corals, elephant ear sponges and sea fans. Divers who remember to peer into the deep blue behind them can spot yellowfin tuna, orangespotted trevally, and schools of red sea fusiliers, and the resident napoleon wrasses. The saddle which allows the entrance to the inside of the Blue Hole is only 7m deep and hosts a coral garden teeming with life. The garden is a great way to end your Blue Hole dive by keeping an eye out for octopus, starfish and scorpion fish.

The Canyon
This site takes its name from a long, narrow canyon that runs north to south from the shallow reef just offshore to depths of around 50m. Access to the site is through a shallow 3m lagoon lying a few steps from the shoreline. The entrance to the canyon is marked by a large coral mound lying some 10m out from the reef face, in around 12m of water. A diver-sized opening gives onto the top chamber of the canyon, a fishbowl-like enclosure. From here the canyon drops through various twists and turns to a depth of 50m; open water is visible along most of its length through the narrow opening in the ceiling, but there is no opening large enough to exit through until 30m depth. The progression through the Canyon is easy and the light effect caused by the sun rays is surreal. Outside the canyon, the reef has good coral cover but within the canyon itself, there is little if any coral growth. Among the large range of reef fish here, some notable residents include the butterflyfish, pufferfish, cornetfish, unicorns, snapper, grouper, basslets, juvenile barracudas, lyretail cod, coral grouper and rabbitfish. Jacks can often be seen along the reef, and jewel-like schools of glassfish inhabit the canyon.

Eel Garden
Though the name lacks punch, this site is actually an exciting dive filled with excellent photography opportunities.  Entry to this site is through a small lagoon which descends from the reeftop to an exit point on the reef at about 7m. Little more than 1.5m wide at some points, this entry lagoon can act as a funnel for wave surge or runout from falling tides, so a strenuous swim may be necessary.  Once outside the lagoon, a wide sandy slope leads off to the north, covered with literally thousands of garden eels swaying in the gentle current. Across the sand lies a sloping reef wall with scattered coral heads on the sand at its 20m base; south of the sand, the reef continues with lots of fine coral growth but no exit point until the lighthouse.  There is an excellent selection of coral growth along both reef sections, with stony and soft species including acropora, antler coral, plate, cabbage, elephant ear sponge, Dendronephthya and Xeniids. Anemones are also pretty common here.  The site boasts large numbers of small grey morays, lionfish, bluespine unicorn, scorpion fish, damsels and baslets, parrots, grouper, lyretail cod, and plenty of sand gobies.  The rare batfish can also be found here.

The Lighthouse
This is a fine dive, with a good range of features and depths to suit all levels of diver. Located just offshore at the lighthouse in Dehab bay, it features a sloping reef extending north around an outthrust point of land. Large pinnacles with huge cabbage coral and coral heads extend out from the point, reaching depths of more than 25m before tailing off to a series of smaller coral heads with a diverse fish life of big trumpetfish, rock cod, lionfish surgeon and unicornfishes, wrasses, triggerfishes, breams and morays.  Turtles and rays are also frequently spotted here.  The reef then gives way to a wide, sandy slope containing seamoths and shrimps before reaching a second sloping coral wall to the north.  A shallow lagoon cuts the reeftop at this reef’s southern edge, hosting a varied fish life including cornetfish, angelfish, spanish dancer nudibranches, goatfish and schools of common bigeyes feeding in the mild current.

The Islands
The Islands is a dense concentration of coral pinnacles and patch reefs in a sheltered location along the Dahab shore – a labyrinthine range of peaks, valleys, corridors, sand patches, bowls, amphitheaters, deep wells and coral peaks. This intricate seascape is densely covered with absolutely pristine coral, offering the most diverse and well-preserved selection of coral in the Sinai area. Every conceivable hard coral is present, including porites, brain corals and acropora table corals.   A diversity of soft corals exists as well. The fish life is even more amazing than the coral: huge schools of barracuda, box fish, crocodile fish, blue fin trevallies, snapper, surgeon and unicornfish vie with vibrantly-colored reef species for a diver’s attention. Sea bream, emperors, big triggerfish, rabbitfish, birdnose wrasse and many other species round out the picture, with an occasional turtle, too. One particular highlight is a large, sand-bottomed amphitheater halfway along the reef, where giant schools of juvenile barracuda congregate in whirling circles.

The Caves
This site is the last of the series of sites on the southern coast of Dahab before the Gabr El Bint National Park. It centers on two shallow and large open front caverns, deeply undercutting the reef table close to shore. They are well worth a visit: covered with soft corals, sponges and black corals and inhabited by huge pufferfish and shy peppered morays.  On the south side, a very contoured shallow reef section with many inlets and surf tubes leads onto the sloping body of the main reef, while to the north, a deeply undercut extension of the cavern leads down the side of the sandhill to the northern continuation of the reef slope. The reef sections are as interesting as the caves, where a large cover of hard and soft coral and lively population of reef and schooling fishes are present.

Nuweiba

The diving from Nuweiba runs from Devils Head and in the north to Abu Gallum in the south and is mainly accessed from the shore by jeep or even camel due to the lack of jetty facilities or safe anchorages for boats. Conditions are ideal and there is plenty to see: gardens of hard and soft coral and interesting fish species like razor fish, shrimpfish, stonefish and pegasus fish. Those with a keen eye for detail can spot the elusive frogfish, the delicate seahorse and the multihued nudibranch. There are house reefs and coral gardens to explore, as well as two marine parks: Ras Mumlach, with a 70m wall covered in hard and soft corals, and Ras Abu Galum, with a drop off to over 90m.  Some of the more interesting dive sites in this area include:

Abou Lou Lou House Reef
The house reef lies just to the left of the jetty, off the hotel’s private beach. The main reef lies between 5 and 20m of depth.  It is an ideal spot for both for beginners and experienced divers because of the concentration and diversity of the fish life there. Puffers, morays, groupers, surgeonfish, shrimps and crabs are just a few of the highlights. Lionfish practically overrun the reef here, with 20 or more commonly seen on any dive.  This site is great for night dives as well, when the ocean’s evening entertainment comes out to play in droves.

M.F.O.
M.F.O. is an abbreviation for Multi-National Force and Observers.  This site contains two desalination pipes that were put there by the Israeli Army in the late seventies. Both pipes start at 5m and stretch out horizontally, sloping gradually down to 12m and 20m respectively. The pipes are around 5m apart and over the years have become overgrown with soft corals and small table corals. This has attracted an abundance of fish to shelter around the pipes.  A short swim north from the pipes produces a reef at a depth between 14 and 20m with a collection of small pinnacles, coral heads and masses of soft corals blanketing the bottom. The fish life is abundant with jackfish, grouper, parrotfish and sometimes leopard rays making an appearance.

Ras El Shetan – Devils Head
About 30 minutes drive north of Nuweiba lies a Bedouin Camp, a perfect base from which to dive Ras El Shetan. The southern side of the reef starts at 12m, and is covered by an incredible variety of hard corals before dropping down sharply to a depth of 40m to a canyon full of octopus, puffer fish and moon groupers. The northern side of the reef offers a completely different experience, providing a bed of sea grass and a healthy coral garden that includes impressive table corals ranging in size from an inch to 3m in diameter. Along with various other hard and soft corals, this part of the site is home to many small, tropical fish including the brightly colored lemon goby and the blue green puller.
Ras Mamlach
Situated in the Abu Galum National Park, this site is spectacular. The reef starts at 12m, with a beautiful coral garden, then gives way to a steep wall that bottoms out at 70m. Brightly colored  fan and table corals as well as soft corals sit against the backdrop of the intensive blue of the Gulf of Aqaba, where schools of barracuda, jacks and groupers play.

Sexy Cephalopod

Few creatures are as exciting to spot underwater as an octopus.  They are smart and good at camouflage, so finding one is always a treat.  Plus, they are just beautiful animals to see, with lots of color, shape and size variations.  These creatures come in a wide range of options, some as little as an inch, some as large as 16 feet across.  The octopus inhabits many diverse regions of the oceans around the world, especially coral reefs, and can exist in water depths from tidal pools all the way down to over 200 feet.  For defense against predators, they hide, flee quickly, expel ink, or use color-changing camouflage. Scientists say that most of an octopus’ behavior is learned, not innate, a minor miracle since their lifespan is so darn short (5 years at the absolute most!)

There are about 300 recognized octopus species in the world, too many to cover in depth.  But, some are amazing, even by octopus standards, and are worth a mention:

Mimic Octopus – This octopus only lives for 9 months, but boy it accomplishes a lot during that time.  This crazy cephalopod takes on the appearance of other species to scare off predators and find food.  Imagine a creature burying all but its eyes and two arms below the sand, leaving in view a long thin object with white and black bands running across the elongated body that looks just like the local sea snake.  Now you’ve got the mental picture of why the Mimic Octopus is so unique.  It usually imitates venomous species, like a lionfish, sea snake, or a poisonous flatfish, though people have also described it looking like a stingray, a crab, and other types of less lethal sea life.  Divers can find this octopus off the Indo- Malay archipelago, especially around Sulawesi.  Don’t worry though, it isn’t poisonous to humans.

Caribbean Reef Octopus – The Caribbean Reef Octopus isn’t the best looking octopus out there, but if you have been scuba diving in the Caribbean and seen an octopus, chances are this is the most likely suspect.  It is common throughout the Western Atlantic, Bahamas, Caribbean and the coasts of northern South America. It is often found at night feeding on reefs and sea grass beds. They have a distinctive blue-green color with occasional mottled-brown markings. Because their blue-green skin is so reflective, they are easy to spot at night with dive lights. Like other octopus species, the Caribbean reef octopus is solitary animal and able to quickly change color using specialized cells in their skin known as chromatophores. They can weigh up to 1.5 kg, but have been known to wedge themselves into miniscule reef crevices and wreck holes.

Wonderpus Octopus – The Wonderpus Octopus has got to be the sexiest cephalopod out there, with a striking color pattern of white bars and spots over a brown-red background.  It’s characterized by a small mantle (the part of the body that contains the mouth and vital organs), which is about an inch to an inch-and-a-half long, and long arms that measure about five to seven times the length of the mantle. Its patterns of spots (on the body) and stripes (on the arms) are unique to each individual adult wonderpus, making identification of a specific creature possible.  Divers can find the wonderpus in shallow waters from Bali and Sulawesi north to the Philippines and east to Vanuatu, and will fare best looking for the creature when it is most active in the twilight hours of dusk and dawn.  This creature is a relative newcomer to the fish identification guides, with the first identification happening only in 1980.  Go ahead, say it:  won-der-pus.  Even its name is sexy.

Blue Ringed Octopus

Greater Blue-ringed Octopus

– No discussion about octopi could be complete without mentioning the little one we love to hate, the Blue-ringed Octopus.  Unlike its southern brethren, the Blue-lined and Southern Blue-ringed octopuses that are found only in Australian waters, the range of the Greater Blue-ringed Octopus spans the tropical western Pacific Ocean. Greater Blue-ringed Octopuses can weigh between 10 and 100 grams, though the average is 55 grams. The blue-ringed octopus is the size of a golf ball, but its venom is powerful enough to kill humans, and no known antidote exists. Remember the James Bond movie Octopussy?  Yes, it’s that one.

White-spotted Octopus – Humans have been watching the white-spotted octopus since 1826 when it was first spotted off the coast of Nice in the Mediterranean Sea.   It spends its adult life on the ocean bottom, and although divers usually see this octopus hanging out near-shore it sometimes it can be found much deeper.  This octopus has long arms, with the first arm pair being the longest and stoutest, and has shallow webbing among the arms. It also has a higher sucker count than most octopuses. This is a nocturnal creature, waiting until night to find its favorite snacks of clams and crabs.  The white-spotted octopus only lives for 1-2 years after which it goes out with a “bang” (literally) after a single breeding season. 

Giant Pacific Octopus – This is the big daddy of all octopi, the Giant Pacific Octopus.  As the name would suggest, it is the largest species of octopus in the oceans, averaging 16 feet across and weighing an average of 120 lbs.  It is also the longest lived, at 4-5 years.  Divers can spot this behemoth from southern California, northward along the coast of North America, across the Aleutian Islands, and southward to Japan, though they usually hang out quite deep, typically at around 215 ft.   But just because they are big doesn’t mean they are beautiful: Giant Pacific octopuses have huge, bulbous heads and are generally reddish-brown in color. Like the other members of the octopus family, though, they use special pigment cells in their skin to change colors and textures, and can blend in with even the most intricately patterned corals, plants, and rocks.

Where can I find these things?  The majority of abalone species are found in cold waters, off the Southern Hemisphere coasts of New Zealand, South Africa and Australia, and Western North America and Japan in the Northern Hemisphere.  Due to dwindling natural supply of abalone and increasing demand, some countries have begun farming the critters, including China, Taiwan, Japan,  Australia, Chile, Iceland, Ireland, Mexico, New Zealand, South Africa, Thailand, and the United States.  Abalone are mostly taken in depths from a few inches up to 10 m (33 ft.)  Abalone are normally found on rocks near food sources like kelp. Divers commonly dive out of boats, kayaks, tube floats or directly off the shore.

How do I dive for abalone?  It turns out that scuba diving for abalone is illegal in most parts of the world.  Instead you have to freedive for them, which makes sense since they are usually pretty shallow.  An abalone diver sports the usual gear like a thick wetsuit, booties, gloves, mask, snorkel, and a weight belt.  You also need an abalone iron which is used to pry the mollusk off the rock it is so fond of, and an abalone gauge to make sure the size is large enough to take legally.

This is a good time to mention the insanely stringent regulations surrounding the recreational hunting of abalone due to their severely threatened populations.  In addition to the aforementioned no scuba rules, there are limits to the number taken, the size taken and the time of year the tasties are collected.  These vary by country and even by city, with strict penalties for non-compliance.  Some places like California have law enforcement professionals dedicated to catching abalone thieves not following the rules (where did those taxpayer dollars go?)  So before you go setting your mind to hunting abalone, you should check the local regulations.

I found one!  Now what do I do with it? Abalone are basically sea snails, conceptually similar to conch.  You can serve it raw like sushi, or steam it, saute it, boil it, bake it, or even serve it like a “steak.”  Winning cook-off recipes have made it into cakes (like a crab cake, not chocolate, thanks), battered it in beer and even mixed it into tomato sauce over pasta.  The key appears to be cleaning the fresh mollusk correctly, removing the lip, tough foot and guts.  A thorough pounding of the meat with a heavy mallet also seems to contribute to a tasty outcome.

So although I can’t put my scuba skills to work, it does seem like hunting for the great abalone is an interesting proposition.  Although I’m not crazy about continuing to deplete the population of this animal which has been so highly regarded for so very long, I do like the idea of celebrating its existence in so many tasty ways.  Perhaps I’ll stick to the farmed version and dive for something else instead.

The diving around Alexandria can be divided into some logical groupings based on features and historical period.  Some of the more interesting diving includes:

Underwater city of Cleopatra and her Palace – The site is located just inside the Eastern Harbor of Alexandria. The city dates back to 300 BC, and was built by Alexander the Great.  The city collapsed and fell into the sea after several earthquakes. Divers can see Cleopatra’s royal districts, the statue of Mark Anthony, Cleopatra’s sun boat and the wreckage of a 2nd World War plane that exists inside the ruins. Various monuments, carvings and building ruins can be seen throughout the site.

Quaitbay Fort – There are three wrecks to dive in the waters below present-day Quaitbay Fort. Two wrecks were ships used to carry goods to Alexandria during Cleopatra’s era. The third wreck is the remains of a Roman shipwreck also used to carry goods to Alexandria. Though quite old, the ships’ structures and typical nautical characteristics can still be distinguished.

Underwater city of Heracleon – Located at a distance of 4 km from the coast of Abou Kir bay, at depth of 8m, lies the ruined buildings of the city of Heracleon, complete with a nearby pharaonic style temple.  Found in the temple were 3 colossi carved on red granite for Ptolemy & his queen.   Other relics, such as stone monuments, utensils, bronze figures, gold coins and pottery have been recovered at the site, their origin identified as dating from sometime between the 4th. and 1st. centuries BC.  This site continues to produce archeological treasures and demonstrates advanced construction techniques.

Napoleon’s Wrecks – In the late 1700’s, Napoleon Bonaparte began his French invasion of Egypt by landing his fleet in Alexandria.  His flagship, the Orient, exploded and sank in the Battle of the Nile.  At 2700 tons and carrying 120 cannons, this ship makes for a fascinating and well preserved wreck dive. Two other nearby wrecks, the Serieuse and the Artemise were also frigates belonging to Napoleon’s fleet. Artifacts recovered from the wrecks include anchors, cannons, portable firearms, ammunition, navigation instruments, and gold, silver and copper coins.

WWII Wrecks – There are two WWII wrecks near Alexandria.  The HMS Calcutta was a C-class British light cruiser, built by Vickers during 1917, and launched during 1918. Despite to her anti-aircraft weapons, the HMS Calcutta was damaged and sunk by a German Junkers Ju 88 bomber in the waters north-west of Alexandria.  Due to the location, the visibility around this wreck is consistently better than in Alexandria harbor, and the remaining structure is overflowing with sea life.  The second wreck, the HMS Galatea was an Arethusa-class British light cruiser, built in Greenock by Scotts Shipbuilding & Engineering Co. during 1933, and launched during 1934.  She was intercepted and torpedoed by the German submarine U-557, the explosion scattering the ship’s ruin across the sea floor.  Again, the currents surrounding the wreck deliver superior diving visibility.

Siwa Oasis – This isn’t ocean diving, but the opportunity is still fantastic.  Siwa is located on the edge of the Great Sand Sea approximately 3-hours into the desert by car from Alexandria.  During the Roman Occupation in the early 300 B.C.’s, the Romans modified many of the natural springs that occur here and turned them into wells. The oasis itself is too shallow to dive in, but the surrounding 190 springs and wells offer plenty of unique diving action. The water is crystal clear with fairly constant temps. Typical depths are between 6 and 8 meters with some wells having unique fish varieties which are not native to Egypt. Perhaps the most unique feature, however, is that many contain remains of Roman era construction.

There are some drawbacks to the unique diving in Alexandria.  Dive conditions can be difficult at some sites, with medium to low visibility from silt and pollution.  Also, divers have a limited selection of reputable dive companies to use, as the lack of a large volume of dive tourists makes it difficult to sustain a dive operation.  Finally, government permission to dive some of these sights, like Heracleon, may change without warning as authorities take into account local archeological and drug smuggling activities.  But, it seems the challenges may be worth the rewards as few other places in the world allow a diver to combine their sport with such a rich exploration of history.

• Pack your own snacks to combat unfortunate dive boat food– They are dive operators, after all, not caterers.  But, even knowing this I am still sometimes astounded at the proffered surface interval nibbles.  Melted cheese plates (we call that fondue), fruit cut with extraordinarily rusty knives and even chicken dropped not once, but three times on the boat deck before being served have made me a careful snack planner when it comes time to pack my gear for a trip.  My granola bars may be flat from their long journey, but they are infinitely better than the dive boat cookies that expired before Y2K.
• Dive boat-assigned buddies can make you want to take up knitting instead – Try as hard as you can to bring your own dive buddy; drag them kicking and screaming if you must.  Everyone on a dive boat must have a buddy, and the divemaster will pair you up with another “single” diver to accommodate this safety requirement. There is most likely a good reason that person is a “single” diver.  Reasons may include (but are not limited to): they like to swim in every direction except the one the group is moving, they feel obligated to point out every grain of sand to you during the dive, they have never actually gone diving before (they thought they were signing up for a glass bottom boat tour.)  Buy your spouse scuba lessons for Christmas if necessary.
• Be prepared with extra bits – For some reason, most dive equipment is depressed and wants to end it all by jumping off the boat.  Some may even wait until you are in the water before floating off into the great beyond.  Unless a piece of gear is taped, stapled or glued to you, it will more than likely be lost during some point of your dive career.  If an item is really important to your dive comfort or security, then always carry an extra one.  And, if you happen to see my lens cap in the bottom of your dive boat in the Seychelles, please pick it up and send it back to me.  I promise I will reimburse you for the postage.
• Let your dive interests be known – Dive operators generally want to make you happy.  You will tip the staff nicely and say good things about the company if you have an enjoyable dive.  So, if you really want to dive a certain wreck or spot a specific indigenous sea creature, mention it to the divemaster.  (And do so before the boat picks a site, drops anchor, and pushes half the divers off the back!) Don’t pout if it isn’t possible and be cognizant that the other divers on the boat may have conflicting interests, but hey, it’s worth mentioning.  Otherwise, the dive company may take you to the same old spot they always dive because no one seems to care about the destination.  (Can I tell you how many times I have dived the Oro Verde wreck in Cayman?!!)
• The non-divers in the world just don’t understand – There are two types of people in the world: divers and the rest who are unenlightened.  There are many people who will never understand why you would want to dive, thinking it too dangerous, too costly or too Darwinian.  But never fear, their hesitancy to try the sport only means one thing: more room on the dive boat for the rest of us!

Heli-diving
“I’m in a perfectly working helicopter, but I am going to exchange my comfy seat for a long, unpleasant plunge into cold ocean waters.  Oh, and I’m taking my scuba gear with me.”  Dive operators in several places, including the Great Barrier Reef and Curacao, are offering this expedient pre-dive experience, redolent of Navy Seal and flying fish jokes.  In exchange for some serious cash, you get several hours of training and enough adrenaline to fuel Manhattan’s electricity needs.  For a year.

Cageless, baited Tiger Shark diving
It’s tough to stand out as a dive operator in South Africa, as once-in-a-lifetime diving opportunities can be found all along the coast.  One particularly creative shop has found the answer.  Go to the Tiger Shark ‘hood, chum the water, remove the cage, and pray that everyone on the dive boat returns with the appropriate number of arms and legs (attached).  What I want to know is: how do the Great Whites know that the dinner bell is not for them?

Record-setting deep dives
Go past 120 feet, and you’ve left recreational diving depths.  Add a few hundred feet more, and you’ll find zero light and few fish.  Go a few hundred feet more, and you might just find a diver with a death wish trying to set a new depth record.  The deepest sea dive to date is 330 meters set by Pascale Bernabe in 2005, but depth-aholics are constantly trying to beat the latest achievement.  The record and not the dive itself seems to be what turns these extreme divers on: it took Bernabe ten minutes to descend to that depth and nine long, boring hours to come back up because of all of the decompression requirements. 

Ice diving
In the middle of the Antarctic winter you need to bore a hole through six feet of ice before you can even access the water.  That alone dissuades most people.   The remaining determined individuals then need to contend with their Sahara-sized dry suit, a slush filled, disorienting entry and volumes of safety rope, as the hole is the only way in and out of the ocean (no, chipping away ice cubes with your dive knife will not work).  But, once the trivial inconveniences are dispensed, diving the water under the ice is a thrilling opportunity, with over three hundred feet of visibility and a host of unique sea creatures to see (can you say orka?)  It’s an extreme dive adventure not for the faint of heart, nerve, body temperature, or wallet.

 Steer clear of pirate hot spots – Certain waters are high-risk like those off the Somali coast, so ships are advised to avoid them.  The planet is round, after all, so just plot a course in the opposite direction and you’ll eventually reach your destination.

Keep a good lookout – The article suggests that many ships don’t know they are under attack until the pirates board the boat.   A good lookout is critical since there are so many good places for Pirates to hide in the open ocean.

Defensive maneuvers to take if Pirates attack:

Don’t slow down if fired upon – Despite most spy movie-gathered intelligence, your ship will not become invisible if it stops.  So, do the natural thing and run like heck.

Consider short cycle zig-zags – Yes, you will make your crew seasick, but you’ll also create an amplified wake that will disrupt the pirates’ efforts.  As an added benefit, instruct your crew to aim overboard if ill.

Use deafening horns – If you make really loud noises, the pirates might run away.  Of course your crew may join them on the retreating boat just to get away from the painful sound, but hey, you’ll still have your boat!

Use barricades such as barbed wire – This is a useful tool to prevent people from boarding your boat uninvited.  Please disregard this instruction, however, if you think you may need to leave your boat quickly such as if it is sinking or if someone is offering to separate your head from your shoulders.  In these cases easy egress may be required.

Don’t make sudden movements around the Pirates – Spontaneously breaking out into Broadway show tunes is ill advised.

Transmit Mayday signals – This is useful so that the nearest Navy ship, usually several hours away, can get the first pick at the salvage that once was your boat.

Inform the Pirates that you are armed and prepared to defend yourself – Sticking your tongue at them and flipping them the bird may also help.