Scuba Dive

On our last dive trip we encountered a couple who mentioned they had been to see the whalesharks of the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico last year.  They seemed like honest enough folks, but their claims of seeing hundreds of whalesharks off the peninsula seemed exaggerated at best and a bold faced fabrication at worst.  I decided to do some research to find out more about these multiple Mexican whalesharks and determine if it would be worth the trip to see them.

So yes, indeed, there are whalesharks off of the Caribbean coast of Mexico.  During the month of June to September, in the area around Cancun, Contoy and Isla Holbox, the sharks swim by during their summer feeding migration.  Though the locals, who quaintly call the fish Dominoes, have known about the migration for a long time, it is only within the past six years that these aquatic Latin beauties have grabbed international attention.  Whale Shark Tourism infusion started with 9000 people in 2005. 2006 saw a 50% increase to 13,500. 2007 saw another increase to over 16,000 and in 2008 the total board saw almost 20,000 Whale Shark swimmers!

Yes, swimmers.  There is no scuba diving allowed with the whalesharks, just snorkeling, a rule enforced by Mexican marine park rangers with fast boats, firepower and determined glints in their eyes.  There are a variety of outfitters who the government has licensed to take people to swim with the Whale Sharks which keeps good control over process.  Props to Mexico for acknowledging and protecting their marine treasures.

Let’s talk numbers.  Were my dive buddies making an accurate statement, or were the oodles of whalesharks all in their minds?  If they really did go in 2008 or 2009, it is possible they were telling the truth.  Each year since 2005 the number of whalesharks sighted in the region has increased, though it is unclear whether that is a function of more whalesharks in the area, or better spotting techniques (like the use of planes or historical sighting data).  Some days you might be lucky to see one or two, with five to ten seeming to be the average.  But when the water is thick with plankton, for example from spawning fish, the whaleshark numbers can grow dramatically, with 2009 aggregations reaching 300+.  That’s 300+ whalesharks at one time in an area no bigger than a few football fields.  I can’t imagine a site more amazing than that.

So the only downside seems to be the unpredictability of the sightings and the time it takes.  While my dive buddies may have seen 300, if I went a week later I might have only seen one.  Depending on where you are based, the boat ride out to see the whalesharks could be three hours or more (that’s three hours out and three hours back.)  On the upside there are frequently surface manta ray sightings in the area, giving passengers something to look for on the long ride.  And of course, the possibility of something this good is certainly worth the wait.