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Archive for December, 2009
This is not a Great White, but he plays one on TV...
Upon arrival at the dive site, the captain anchored the boat while the divemaster jumped up on the boat’s bench seat and prepared to deliver his briefing. The divemaster was long and lean, with flowing hair bleached blond by the sun. He appeared confident, even cocky, an attitude fueled by the successful execution of hundreds of shark feeds without any noticeable loss of his body parts.
“Okay, who has done a shark feed before?” No one raised their hands. “Okay, so who has gone diving in Moorea before?” Again, no one raised their hands. We were a really impressive group. “So, has anyone actually done any scuba diving anywhere?”
“We just got certified in Bora Bora,” I said proudly, an admission met with congratulations from the other divers. The divemaster’s face fell.
“Okay, so we will keep this easy. Descend directly to the bottom. I will show you where to go. Do not move around. Do not gesture or hold your hands out towards the sharks. Do not make erratic movements.” Do not pass go. Do not collect $100. Do not feel bad about pushing the diver next to you towards the shark’s open mouth if it looks like it is going to attack.
As the other divers suited up, I peered over the side of the boat into the bottomless cobalt abyss. The sky had clouded up, causing the water to appear murky and foreboding. Off the back of the boat I noticed fins breaking the surface, lots of them.
“What are those?” I asked the divemaster.
“Reef sharks. Small ones,” he said. “They know they’re gonna get fed, so they’re waiting for us. They’ll leave when the big guys show up.”
This endeavor began to look less and less like a great idea. Clearly we were expected to jump into the water with the sharks swirling on the surface, like lobsters dropped into a boiling pot of water. I envisioned the sharks heating up some drawn butter in anticipation of our entry. We geared up, preparing to take the plunge. I lingered while putting on my scuba vest, cleaning my mask, and slipping on my fins in hopes of being the last diver to jump into the water. The shark “feeder,” one of the crew members, donned a suit made of heavy woven chain designed to protect him from shark bites. The chain mail suit covered him from head to toe in medieval scuba chic. He looked like a tropical Knight of the Round Table.
The moment divers entered the water, the surface sharks disappeared. I took a giant stride off the back of the boat and instantly felt more relaxed as I soaked up the warm, 80 degree water. As we descended the visibility improved and I realized the depth was only 35 feet. The sloped, rocky sea floor undulated with deep grooves like mini canyons extending out towards deeper water. The divemaster guided our group to a point at the shallower end of one of the grooves and gestured for us to stay put. Holding a stationary position would be difficult, however, because the significant waves at the surface created a surge of water down below. With each passing wave, we floated forward and back five feet. Despite our best efforts, we could not control it; the water moved each diver with a force that flailing arms and legs just couldn’t combat.
I heard the splash as the heavily-weighted shark feeder entered the water. As he sank to the bottom about 25 feet in front of us, I noticed he held a large bag full of fish bits for feeding. A tsunami of small fish engulfed him, greedily eyeing up his bag of food as he prepared for the feeding frenzy. Sir Fish Head took a chunk of snack out of his bag and placed it on the end of a long, pointed stick, which could double nicely as a jousting lance later in the day if needed. Appearing suddenly from the blue, as if by magic, was a small black-tip reef shark. It snatched the piece of fish then like a shot disappeared back into the blue. The surrounding small fish went crazy picking up the bits of fish flesh the shark left behind.
You put the lime in the coconut (unless the octopus is already in there)
Australian scientists have found what they are calling an “example of tool use” by octopi in the waters around North Sulawesi and Bali. The scientists filmed the veined octopus, Amphioctopus marginatus, selecting broken coconut shells from the sea floor, carrying them under their bodies up to 65 feet, and then assembling two shells together to make a spherical hiding spot, though photos of the phenomenon make it look like the creature is wearing a tropical party hat.
Anyone that has ever watched an octopus while diving or even in an aquarium knows that these animals are smart and capable of quite intelligent actions. What seems to be setting these studious octopi apart from their brethren is the collection of the shell fragments for later use in another location; basically planning for the future. It’s the cephalopod equivalent of savings account for coconuts.
Though relatively unknown, Latin America has some great diving along both coasts. Pristine reefs and few fellow divers equal one of kind diving opportunities. A few interesting spots to check out:
Gladden Split, Belize-Off the southern coast of Belize, Gladden’s Split is a world-renowned spot for diving with massive whale sharks. This site is the natural spawning ground for a variety of marine species which in turn attract the big guys. Whale sharks come regularly to feed on the fish eggs and other plankton in the water especially during the full moons of April, May and June, though they can also be seen August to October and in December and January. Though some of the dive sites in the north of the country are more well-known, none (except maybe the Blue Hole) are as dramatic and as rewarding.
Spooky Channel, Roatan, Honduras – Spooky Channel is located directly off the end of the Sunnyside pier making shore entry and exit a snap. Those on boats can also access the site, with moorings on both the inside and outside of the reef . There is a maze of zigzags and tunnel like effects leading throughout the reef at depths of up to 95 feet that give the site its name. There is an incredible array of fish on this dive including: blue runner, harlequin bass, cowfish, trunkfish, black durgon, butterfly fish, grouper, angelfish, parrotfish, octopus, lobster, shrimp, spider crab, trunkfish, porcupine fish, turtles, and rays. Upon occasion divers can even see whalesharks when the season is right. Abundant, healthy corals such as flower coral, smooth starlet, ribbon coral, brain coral, sea rod, sea fans, tube sponges, and basket sponges will do their best to steal your attention away from the fish.
Catalina Island, Costa Rica -This island off the west coast of Costa Rica is almost unknown to humans, but well known to rays. Giant Manta Rays, Bat Rays, Mobley, Spotted, Bull’s-eye and Stingrays abound. It is not unusual to see large migratory schools rays passing by during a dive. Sometimes sharks make an appearance too, including tiger sharks and white tips. The best months for diving the Catalina Islands are December through May, high season for Mantas. If you get bored of all of the large pelagics, you can also find frog fish, harlequin clown shrimp and sea horses here.
The Devil’s Throat, Cozumel, Mexico – Located at the Punta Sur dive site in Cozumel, The Devil’s throat is an underwater cave formation that starts at the opening of a dark narrow tunnel at 90 feet and takes you first vertically, then horizontally out through an opening at 130 feet on the wall. Visibility often exceeds 200 feet and the area is frequently visited by eagle rays and turtles, thought the creepy and spectacular cave is the highlight of this dive. Bring a dive light and some really advanced scuba skills for this one – you’ll need it.
Isabela Island, Mexico – Isabela Island National Park is a marine preserve accessed only by boat off the Pacific Coast of San Blas, Mexico. It’s possible to swim with giant Manta rays and hear whale songs underwater on the same dive. On the boat trip out and back, divers frequently sight whales, dolphins, turtles, whalesharks and sailfish. The unique underwater topography includes a giant underwater arch and several small caves to explore. A rainbow of tropical fish, yellowtail, grouper, red snapper, jack caravel, eel, anemones and all manner of corals thrive in this pristine habitat.
Vinnie the Venomous Fish
Great White sharks get all the press when it comes to discussion of the ocean’s deadliest killers. But, plenty of other things in the sea are just as mean and nasty, if not more so. A selection of some of my favorites:
Vinnie the Venomous Fish – Imagine being a lowly fish, armed only with the ability to school and a sense of sea humor. Now add a little venom to your arsenal, and suddenly you are a Big Bad Swimming Machine. Venomous fish like stonefish, lionfish and scorpion fish produce their own toxins then generously share it with the rest of the aquatic world via their already unpleasant spines. My favorite is the stonefish, who are at their deadliest when lying on the ocean bottom doing nothing at all except looking like…you guessed it…an ugly stone. All it takes is a passerby with a naked foot and a bad aim and bam, you get one unhappy tourist (and the fish is a little flatter for the experience as well.)
Octopussy – James Bond proved one could overcome their enemies by throwing a Blue Ringed Octopus on their face in this classic 1980’s spy movie. Theoretically I suppose this could work, though you are likely to get bitten in the process. Since it injects neuromuscular paralyzing venom that can kill a human in minutes, you won’t really get to enjoy your victory over the forces of evil for very long. Better to remove the bad guy’s shoes and point him in the direction of some stonefish instead.
They Freak Me Out On Land, Too – Sea snakes tend to favor the warm, fish-filled tropical waters that most scuba divers also like. Though shy unless provoked, a single snake produces enough poison to kill not only you, but the rest of the folks on your dive boat, too. Most are a normal snake size, but a few can grow to seven feet or more. I personally am sure that if I ran into a seven-foot sea snake while diving I would give up the sport right then and there.
The cruise dock in Belize did not exude “jungle paradise” as I expected. Before the cruise the thought of Belize conjured up visions of toucans, jaguars, and fierce Inca men with rippling muscles. Instead, the dock was full of concrete, marine shipping box piles, and skinny men running around like ants trying to secure our boat. I hoped the experience would improve from there.
The divers from our cruise were loaded onto a minibus so that we could drive to the designated dive shop. There were ten of us in total. The rest of the divers appeared normal, except for three guys who looked like Navy Seals. They were tall, well-muscled men with crew cuts and an entire store worth of scuba gear tucked into enormous black duffle bags. They looked like they were going to dive the deep Titanic rather than the shallow Belize shores. Their gear listed our minibus to the left side during the entire ride to the dive shop.
Again we signed our life away in accident waiver forms when we arrived at the dive shop. I have always wondered why shops require divers to perform this task. The pens never work because the salt air instantly corrodes them. The counters are always wet so the minute one puts the paper down to sign it, it turns into a squishy mess. And, finally, there is never anyplace in a dive shop that is well organized enough to store something like the thousands of waiver papers a shop would collect in a year. I am sure there are parrot cages all over the globe that are lined with these liability releases.
We boarded the dive boat and set up our gear. I knew the divemasters were assessing our skills based on how our knowledge of the hoses, gauges and straps that are involved in a scuba setup. I suspected they might insist I wear water wings after I tried to set up my tank backwards. Twice. I finally got my gear set up correctly, and then contorted myself into my wetsuit, an activity I perform as graceful as a sailor swearing.
The divemaster took us on a whirlwind underwater tour of Terraces Reef, patiently pointing out large sea life like turtles and small creatures like decorator crabs. I acted like paparazzi at each stop, snapping picture after picture of starlet starfish with my camera. I learned when developing my pictures from Bora Bora that fish swim, frequently out of focus or out of the frame altogether. By looking at my pictures, one would assume Bora Bora had a lot of empty water. I had prepared to practice my underwater photography skills more on this trip.
I had not prepared for the new and fascinating sea life that revealed itself to us on this trip. Most notably were the green moray eels anywhere from five to ten feet in length. Morays have dorsal fins that extend evenly from their head all the way to their tail and very large teeth, making them look like angry green vipers with full body mohawks. I saw moray eels in French Polynesia, but they all hid in the reef with only their faces and fierce-looking mouths exposed.
In Belize the Morays were free-swimming, something that most types of eels usually do only at night. These long, green ribbons of muscle undulated through the water like Cruella De Vil’s feather boa. Because of their notoriously poor vision, morays are not known for biting humans offensively, usually reserving this defensive tactic for when a diver’s hand or foot is put mistakenly into their hole in the reef. Seeing the full length and body power behind the large teeth as they cruised around the reef gave me the creeps; their full exposure expanded their menace exponentially. Although the two dives were fascinating, I was glad to end my time with those particular reef residents.
Nomadic in nature and notoriously bubble-shy, Manta Rays are undoubtedly one of the most appreciated underwater sightings once you finally find one. There are, however, a few places in the world that can almost guarantee a manta sighting on any given dive.
Yap, Micronesia – This tiny Pacific island just north of the equator houses a resident colony of manta rays, a rare living situation for the animals. Check out Yap Diver’s blog that highlights pics from “Manta Fest” including one dive trip accompanied by a pod of Orcas. As a bonus, visitors to the island also get a unique top side cultural experience that frequently includes grass skirts, loincloths, and the use of huge wheels of stone money for barter.
Kona, Hawaii – This manta experience is decidedly more manmade, but no less exciting. Dive operators and hotels light up the waters off the Kona Coast at night, attracting swarms of plankton that, in turn, attract the manta rays. Divers and snorkelers alike hover in the water column, watching the giants glide and swoop as they feed. Check out Kona Honu Diver’s page for a cool video of what the dive actually looks like.
Atlanta, Georgia – On this trip you have a 100% chance of seeing not one manta, but two. If you buy tickets to the aquarium, that is. Whether you agree with the idea of aquariums or not, you have to admit that this place really has it all when it comes to sea life. The two mantas swim in a six million gallon exhibit next to four whale sharks, a handful of hammerheads, and a ton of other fish. Rumor has it that one of the rays likes to do flips out of the water at the surface, a rare treat for people on the Behind the Scenes tours.
The PADI and NAUI certification courses do a reasonably good job teaching scuba skills in the classroom. It is certainly important to know how to calculate dive tables and the textbook definition of the bends. But, I have found that some of the most important scuba diving information I know was gleaned not from a book, but rather from experience on dive boats. Though I don’t profess to know everything, I’d like to offer a few pieces of factual information I think every new diver should be told:
- Pack your own snacks to combat unfortunate dive boat food– They are dive operators, after all, not caterers. But, even knowing this I am still sometimes astounded at the proffered surface interval nibbles. Melted cheese plates (we call that fondue), fruit cut with extraordinarily rusty knives and even chicken dropped not once, but three times on the boat deck before being served have made me a careful snack planner when it comes time to pack my gear for a trip. My granola bars may be flat from their long journey, but they are infinitely better than the dive boat cookies that expired before Y2K.
- Dive boat-assigned buddies can make you want to take up knitting instead – Try as hard as you can to bring your own dive buddy; drag them kicking and screaming if you must. Everyone on a dive boat must have a buddy, and the divemaster will pair you up with another “single” diver to accommodate this safety requirement. There is most likely a good reason that person is a “single” diver. Reasons may include (but are not limited to): they like to swim in every direction except the one the group is moving, they feel obligated to point out every grain of sand to you during the dive, they have never actually gone diving before (they thought they were signing up for a glass bottom boat tour.) Buy your spouse scuba lessons for Christmas if necessary.
- Be prepared with extra bits – For some reason, most dive equipment is depressed and wants to end it all by jumping off the boat. Some may even wait until you are in the water before floating off into the great beyond. Unless a piece of gear is taped, stapled or glued to you, it will more than likely be lost during some point of your dive career. If an item is really important to your dive comfort or security, then always carry an extra one. And, if you happen to see my lens cap in the bottom of your dive boat in the Seychelles, please pick it up and send it back to me. I promise I will reimburse you for the postage.
- Let your dive interests be known – Dive operators generally want to make you happy. You will tip the staff nicely and say good things about the company if you have an enjoyable dive. So, if you really want to dive a certain wreck or spot a specific indigenous sea creature, mention it to the divemaster. (And do so before the boat picks a site, drops anchor, and pushes half the divers off the back!) Don’t pout if it isn’t possible and be cognizant that the other divers on the boat may have conflicting interests, but hey, it’s worth mentioning. Otherwise, the dive company may take you to the same old spot they always dive because no one seems to care about the destination. (Can I tell you how many times I have dived the Oro Verde wreck in Cayman?!!)
- The non-divers in the world just don’t understand – There are two types of people in the world: divers and the rest who are unenlightened. There are many people who will never understand why you would want to dive, thinking it too dangerous, too costly or too Darwinian. But never fear, their hesitancy to try the sport only means one thing: more room on the dive boat for the rest of us!
You are diving a wreck when you find a shiny trinket that appears valuable. Do you:
a) Leave it where it is..you still remember kindergarten when you learned to “look with your eyes, not with your hands”
b) Hide it in your bathing suit (remember that scene from Pulp Fiction…) you will study it later and hopefully make a million dollars off of it
c) Proudly display it to everyone you com in contact with until the local authorities cart you off to jail for stealing national treasures
CNN recently ran a story about a diver who found a pocket watch near a wreck, and decided to go with a modified version of choice b above. Instead of looking to make a million on it, he spent 9 years researching the history behind it and looking for the current-day, rightful owner.
The story got me thinking about the possibilities of the sunken treasure that lies beneath the waves, and the possibilities of turning my aquatic hobby into a money making venture. After some research I have learned that, sadly, there is no direct line from the sea floor to my pocket. Underwater treasure hunting is governed by the U.N. Law of the Sea, which is about as straightforward as a slinky. The original ship owner, the location of the wreck, the contents of the cargo, the phase of the moon and even the number of goals last scored by Manchester United all seem to play a part in the ultimate meaning of “finders keepers.”
Many privately owned underwater archeology companies (ie. treasure hunters) ply the planet’s oceans each year looking for riches. You’d be hard pressed to actually name one of these companies, however, as they are more secretive than the SPECTRE bad guys in the old James Bond movies (but actually have access to even cooler gadgets.) One such company found $500 million in coins last year, shipped it all back home, buried it in their backyard, then raised their hand and said “Um…we think we might have found something.” The Spanish government is still trying to get the booty back, resorting to armed encounters and public claims of grave robbing in order to “persuade” the salvage shop to return the loot.
Since I’ll be spending my lottery winnings on that $95 million orca yacht, I won’t be able to afford the high tech toys needed for the salvage operation. And since this blog is gathering a healthy following of divers, it looks like the secrecy requirement isn’t going to work either. Guess I’ll have to stick to salvaging the usual abandoned dive gear and old bottles…although a piece of Andrea Doria china would be nice.
Many consider the Exuma Cays to be the most beautiful chain of islands in the Bahamas. These islands are the very definition of “tropical paradise” with turquoise waters lapping miles of white sand beaches and secluded anchorages. The Exumas comprise 365 cays spread over 120 miles. The cays themselves vary in size and terrain: some are low and barren with white sandy beaches; others have rolling hills covered with dense vegetation and small trees. The largest of the cays, and the only one with any significant population, is Great Exuma, which is 37 mi (60 km) in length. The northernmost islands are under an hour away from Nassau by speedboat and many tour operators offer day trips. George Town on Great Exuma has the only airport in the islands, which receives flights from Miami, Ft. Lauderdale and Nassau.
Water visibility ranges from 80 to 150 feet, depending on the site. There are a wide variety of underwater opportunities to cater to every taste, including drift dives, shallow reefs and deep reefs, walls, tunnels and swim throughs, and even blue holes to explore. Expect to see large ocean-going fish like sharks, eagle rays, barracuda, along with standard reef fish and invertebrates like colorful nudibranches. Healthy stands of black coral, elkhorn coral, and staghorn coral can be found at numerous sites.
A dramatic drop-off runs parallel to the islands along Exuma Sound on the eastern side. The wall starts in about 50 feet of water and plummets to several thousand. The edge contains huge caverns, tunnels, and large fish of numerous species.
Just inside the wall are areas of reef formations in 20-60 feet of water. These reefs vary from shallow coral gardens to tall coral heads on white sand. These shallower dives yield hundreds of species from the smallest nudibranchs and shrimp to the larger reef fishes such as barracudas and sharks.
To the west of the Exumas, the Great Bahama Bank ranges 40 miles. Only 40 feet deep, these shallow coral reefs teem with tropical fish. The tidal flow creates strong currents between the islands – ideal for drift dives over a mile in length.
Some of the more interesting dives include:
Thunderball Grotto – This impressive hollowed out island close to Staniel Cay is an underwater paradise teaming with tropical fish, rare sponges and corals. This setting was used for scenes from James Bond’s “Thunderball” and “Never Say Never Again” as well Disney’s “Splash”. Weave through the grotto’s many entrances and passageways, then escape to the outside through its holes. Gaze skyward when inside the amphitheater to see light streaming through the roof where rain has eroded natural skylights.
Wax Cay Cut – A high velocity drift dive, considered by many to be one of the finest in the Caribbean. Fly like Superman at speeds of over 2 knots past vibrant corals and sea fans. You will see rays, sharks, eels and numerous fish as you drift with the current in this cut between the islands. The sheer density of staghorn, pillar and finger corals is amazing. There are several other drifts dives in Exuma such as Hammerhead Gulch and Coral Cut, but none quite as impressive as this.
Dog Rock Wall – Hundreds of Atlantic spadefish call this spot home. Glass minnows choke the swim-throughs that lead to the wall. Massive black coral trees decorate the wall face.
Angelfish Blue Hole – Just off Elizabeth Harbour, rising and falling tides create an ever-moving current through this cavern, attracting a huge variety of fish. The site drops from 30 to 90 feet before entering a cave system best left to certified cave divers. However, the schooling fish and large angelfish that occupy the blue hole are magnificent.
Amberjack Reef – A patch reef where you are sure to see a number of different types of sharks including Caribbean Reef sharks and nurse sharks due to the numerous operators who feed them. Large black groupers also ply the area looking for a handout.
The Washing Machine – The strong incoming tide takes scuba divers through a narrow cut where water drops off a ledge and then makes a sharp bend to the left. This causes the water to swirl like the water in a washing machine, sometimes tossing scuba divers head over heels. After passing through the cut, divers swim out over a large patch reef filled with typical tropical fish and coral.
The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park – This site is part of the Bahamas National Trust, encompassing 176 square miles of pristine diving in which all living creatures are protected. These waters have been managed as a no-take marine fishery reserve since 1986. This has allowed populations of commercially important species such as queen conch, Nassau grouper and spiny lobster to thrive. In addition, sea turtles swim throughout the coral reefs that teem with marine life.
2009 seems to have been the year for fanciful forms of oceanic transportation. A recent CNN article highlighted some of the most striking, a collection that left me wondering: Who are the people who buy these things, and do they need a spouse? I would imagine they are well outfitted for Scuba, but I bet you would need a LONG ladder to reach the water from the deck. A few of my favorites:
Ocean Emerald- A 41-meter super-yacht so expensive, even the wealthiest individuals can only afford to own shares. To join the yacht’s “Ownership Lifestyle Programme” will cost an initial payment of €1.875 million and an additional annual service charge of €200,000 which gets you a guaranteed 30 days onboard this floating dream. I have to admit this one looks really cool, with a graceful arched shape and enormous floor to ceiling windows, but the price seems a little steep for a floating timeshare.
Hermes-designed Superyacht – French retailer Hermes and Monaco-based Wally Construct have teamed up to design a 125-foot wide, wedge-shaped yacht offering the ultimate life of luxury on the water. The ship boasts a 82 ft on-board salt water swimming pool, a 118 ft “beach” on the back deck, a spa and a cinema. No one has coughed up the funds to build this one yet, so for now this luxurious ride is just a paper boat.
Oculus – The 76 meter long “Oculus” looks less like a traditional boating vehicle and more like an…orca. A $95 million orca, to be exact. Yes, for that tidy sum you and 11 of your closest friends can ride the killer whale across the sea, or launch your helicopter off the top. If the ocean around you is not enough, you can go for a dip in its indoor swimming pool or just relax with any other of its indulgent onboard amenities. I’m pretty sure you will have no trouble with pirates, who will assume you are either from outer space or are the visual remnants of hallucinations from the prior night’s drinking binge. One downside: you will scare the heck out of seals everywhere you go.
Plastiki – This 20 meter-long catamaran relies solely on trashed soda bottles for buoyancy. Adventurer David Mayer de Rothschild is planning a voyage across the Pacific Ocean on this floating trash pile early next year. (Ok, so I don’t really need to ride on this one.)
Eclipse – This 525-feet monster yacht was built by Russian billionaire Roman Abramovich, who is said to have paid $1.2 B for it. In addition, the guy shelled out another $400M on military-grade defense systems and other James Bond gadgets like hidden chambers, escape pods and tracking devices all to thwart would-be pirates.