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Turtle carving, or big broken rock?
Are the ruins man made, natural geological formations, or deserted alien outposts? I love the idea that modern day “experts” can’t seem to decide the origin of some of the Earth’s most interesting spots beneath the waves. Is it actually harder to authenticate a ruin that has been sitting in water for a few thousand years, or does the challenging nature of performing underwater archeology doom promising sites to obscurity and disbelief? Even if your opinion tends towards the doubting, you still have to admit that somewhere on this planet there have got to be important historical sites that have sunk beneath the waves as the planet has changed and the oceans have risen. Perhaps Yonaguni is one of those places.
Off the coast of Okinawa, Japan is the small island of Yonaguni, where the East China Sea irritably meets the larger ocean. Within the last 20 years, what started as a strange underwater “pyramid” sighting by local divers has turned into a world-wide effort to identify a whole host of what appear to be man-made buildings and monolith carvings. The pyramid itself is impressive, reaching from the sea floor (at a depth of 100 feet) almost to the surface, and sporting regular, level terraces with almost perfect right angles. At the base of the structure appears what some believe is a cobbled road.
Around the pyramid lie additional features that many consider man-made. Stone mounds with similarly stepped sides dot the landscape. There is the “The Arch,” five enormous stacked stones that seem to act as an entranceway to the other interesting parts of the site. Beyond are twin obelisks, two closely-aligned, perfect rectangles more than 20 feet tall, that may have channeled a shaft of sunlight signaling the autumn equinox. Other features of the site that scientists believe support the “man-made” theory include discarded stone tools, post-holes, wedge marks on the stone, a carving of a sacred turtle, and a stone tablet with incised markings, perhaps a rudimentary form of historical documentation.
What’s the catch? Some scientists have dated the site as far back as 8000BC, which places it solidly 5000 years before the building of the pyramids in Egypt. According to modern anthropological beliefs, that also means it was built long before “man” had the ability, time or knowledge to execute such a grand undertaking. In short, to fully embrace the idea that this site was created by human hands, you have to abandon all the current beliefs about the history and evolution of our ancestors. Or, you have to start believing in aliens. Your choice.
Which brings me back to why I like scuba diving so darn much. When you dive, do you judge a reef by how many fish you can positively identify? Surely not. Instead, you probably have the best experiences where there is plenty of fish and other sea life to study, savor and interpret as you see fit. I would argue that Yonaguni is the same way.
Though potentially historically significant, to a diver it probably doesn’t matter if the site is manmade or not. The monoliths there are awe-inspiring and the more delicate details (like the stone tablet) can be interpreted in a variety of ways with a little imagination and some descent visibility. If you are interested in archeological diving and are willing to suspend disbelief during your bottom time, Yonaguni is the dive for you.
St. Lucia boasts a cash crop of Arrow Crabs
I’m just back from a week-long dive trip to beautiful St. Lucia. This island is in the Eastern Caribbean, part of the Lesser Antilles, lying between Martinique to the North and St. Vincent to the South. It boasts beautiful topside vistas redolent of tropical day dreams and Corona commercials as well as healthy, prolific underwater scenes. I’ve also never visited an island before with such nice people. From the vendors to the hotel employees to the waiters, everyone was incredibly friendly and kind.
Topside temperatures vary between 70 degrees and 90 degrees, depending on the season. The rainy season, which I embraced whole-heartedly due to the lack of tourist crowds, is June to November. Though last year the rainy season was actual marked by a serious drought, Mother Nature has returned to her regular routine, with generous but brief dousings almost every day this summer. Unfortunately, this sometimes meant variable visibility and several places where the freshwater runoff turned the sea into a nauseating kaleidoscope. The water temperatures range from 77 degrees in winter to 83 degrees plus in summer. My computer registered 80 and more the entire trip. I used a wetsuit, but it was more of a fashion statement than a necessity.
Most of the diving is done from the west and south-west sides of the island that face the Caribbean. The underwater topography runs the usual gamut, with volcanic pinnacles, sheer walls, shipwrecks and coral reefs to explore. Dive site depths range from 12ft to around 140ft. Depending on who you ask, there are 40+ “official” locations to dive, though those in the Soufriere Marine Reserve (which starts close to Anse La Raye and extends south for about 12 miles to the town of Soufriere) are the most popular due to the healthy coral and abundant sea life.
Shark lovers beware – there really aren’t any here. If you dive one of the sparse sites on the Atlantic side of the island, you might get a brief sighting of a reef shark or two, but the exciting experience will most likely be dampened by a raging case of sea sickness due to the rough waters. Come to think of it, most local folks had not-so-nice-things to say about the East side of the island and it’s exposure to the feral waters of the Atlantic: bears the brunt of oncoming storms, sea spray tends to drift along the coast which makes a rusty mess of anything metal, few “tried and true” dive sites, etc. I wasn’t there long enough to prove the nay sayers wrong, but it sure looked beautiful if not at least a little dangerous as I drove along that coast’s cliffs.
As for sea life, St. Lucia has a cash crop of arrow crabs, coral banded shrimp and a rainbow of different eels at every dive site (including a lively snake eel on my second dive.) Lobsters abound, and rays and turtles are also frequently seen. I saw scorpion fish, sneaky frog fish and flying gurnards on the trip, as well as fantail pipefish, trumpet fish, cowfish, grouper, jack, snapper, puffers, spotted drum, and a heaven full of angel fish. Sadly, everyone kept promising me octopus and sea horse sightings, but none came to fruition. Underwater barracuda sightings were equally as sparse, but (disturbingly) showed up on a dinner menu one night. Less mobile, but not less impressive, were the barrel sponges, crazy-huge vase-like growths that hosted a ton of critters along the reef. In one we spotted a basket sponge hiding from the sun’s rays.
As I mentioned, the island itself is picturesque. Enormous, green-clad mountains (the most famous are called the Pitons) rise at varying heights across the landscape. Lots of shallow, calm bays stretch inland, making great harbors for sailing day trips or extended stays. A note of caution: the main airport is FAR from most towns that a diver might be interested in, so an hour-plus transfer is common and may include windy roads with maniacal local drivers. Also, food is expensive here. Most items need to be imported, and most establishments are only too eager to tack on hefty service charges in addition to the mandatory taxes. Were all my meals there great? No. Were many of them really good? Yes, especially the ones that involved locally caught fresh fish, prawns, bananas, etc. St. Lucia restaurants are at their best when embracing what the island’s land and surrounding sea have to offer.
The beaches were beautiful and the hotel selection ranged from the most basic accommodations to the most extravagant (every room gets their own pool!) I found diving in St. Lucia to be convenient, with lots of safe dive companies staffed with friendly local people willing to go out of their way to deliver a good diving experience. Though it costs a few more dollars to stay and eat there, the cost of diving was on par with many other Caribbean islands. It was an enjoyable week, one that I hope to repeat during the next “dry” season.
Bigfoot would never be seen in the ocean - he doesn't like getting his hairy feet wet.
The myths and stories surrounding the oceans color our view of the beauty (and the horror) of the saline depths. Legends such as Ahab and the Whale, 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, The Bermuda Triangle, Jaws, James Bond, and Jessica Alba in a wetsuit/scuba gear have all played a part in shaping our modern day perception of the seas, for better or for worse.
The idea of scuba diving in the oceans seems to elicit particularly strong opinions from most people, usually falling into two categories: “way cool” or “hell no.” Though I am probably biased, the people falling into the “hell no” category usually rely upon a scuba or ocean misconception to support their perspective. Below are some of the better ones I have heard.
I don’t want to try diving because…
“Sasquatch of the Sea may come get me.”
It is silly to think that man is aware of everything that lives in the ocean. New species are being identified all the time. But the notion that an aquatic version of Sasquatch is going to pop out from behind the next coral head is more cinema than science. Sailors swearing they saw mermaids most likely viewed narwhals. The Loch Ness Monster was a cardboard cutout. I’m not being cynical, just logical (unless of course I’m on a night dive, then all bets are off and I’m sure Nessie is right behind me.) And, if (on the off chance) a mystical beast does live in the seas, surely it has something better to do than to look for me or another diver, like avoiding photographers from the Enquirer.
“I will be eaten by a giant ______.” (Fill in the blank: octopus, shark, man-eating conch, radioactive seahorse, etc.)
Jacques Cousteau once said that “Man, of all the animals, is the only one to consider himself a great delicacy.” Just because there are some large predatory animals living in the oceans does not mean that they are gunning for every diver that jumps in. Divers, in general, are too big and too loud (i.e. intimidating) for most creatures to consider us a food source. Not to mention that a human’s bone/muscle mass to fat ratio is darn near indigestible and definitely not appetizing, even to a great white shark. This is not to say caution be damned: I would advise against bronco riding a bull shark and parading about the sea floor with an octopus as a fashion accessory. But, to answer the question from countless co-workers, airplane seatmates, relatives, and even the little old lady who walks her chihuahua by my house every day at 9am, no, I am not concerned that something will eat me while scuba diving.
“Banana hammocks and wet suits are required to go diving.”
To many, scuba garb can be more intimidating than jumping into a sea of sharks. Contrary to popular (but misinformed) belief, a nut-hugging speedo and fat-magnifying wetsuit are not required to scuba dive, though some divers do embrace the look. Most divers just wear what is comfortable to them. After all, the fish really don’t care what you look like and most dive boats are happily devoid of mirrors.
“If it isn’t the Great Barrier Reef, it isn’t worth diving.”
Talk to an enthusiastic non-diver, and they will eventually ask you if you have dived the GBR, apparently the perceived Shangri-la of diving sites against which all destinations pale. Since when did the Great Barrier Reef become the Magna Cum Laude of the diving world? Perhaps it was 30 years ago when that was the pinnacle of dive options. Times have changed, mate. Is the GBR nice? Sure. Are there other destinations across the globe that are better? Yes! A diver can explore fascinating, historic wrecks in places like the Baltic Sea and off the coast of the Carolinas. We can swim with pods of manta rays in Yap and dolphins in Puerto Rico. The Cenotes of Mexico bring a whole mystic vibe to diving while the ruins that sit in the water off of Alexandria, Egypt allow a diver to bubble inches from a Wonder of the Ancient World. The world is full of great dives, some tough, some scenic, all fantastic. Chances are, great diving exists right in every diver’s backyard, no passport needed.
“Divers all have 3-day old stubble, a bad crew cut and a tattoo that says Mom.”
I’m pretty sure that the people holding this belief also mentioned the GBR thing. Yes, once upon a time scuba was reserved for the “heartiest” of humans who grunted and spat, while grabbing their god-given jewels before entering the water. Also, there was a time when most people thought the world was flat. So…has anything Nostradamus promised come to fruition lately? No? Then let’s let go of this Neanderthal notion of diving, shall we? Most dive boats hold a healthy combination of divers that are old and young, male and female, and (possibly concerningly) a wide variety of physical fitness. Scuba diving is now done (literally) on the 4 corners of the globe in every language you can name. I will say, however, that many die-hard divers have aquatic themed tattoos. Why? I have no idea, other than their conviction for the sea. I don’t have one myself, but am shopping for one now. I’m thinking a whaleshark with a wave. Maybe a Mom whaleshark?
The Swedish "Vasa," reclaimed from the Baltic Sea after 300 years as an underwater wreck
Wreck diving aficionados beware: the Baltic Sea might just make you addicted to high adrenaline scuba. Experts estimate that over 50,000 wrecks lie at the bottom of this little-dived body of water located between the main European continent and Scandinavia. Centuries old shipwrecks dating from medieval times to the world wards have been found, with tens of thousands more just waiting to be discovered. Best of all, the ships are very well preserved because of the water’s low salinity and the fact that ship worms that eat wooden wrecks don’t live there. The result is sea floor crafts in pristine condition for divers.
Have you ever dove a wreck and thought “Nice boat, but I have no idea what I am actually looking at.” Instead of just diving a no-name sunken ship, isn’t it so much sexier to dive Peter the Great’s warship, the “Portsmouth?” Frequently, the story behind the boat and the details themselves make the dive even more exciting. The high quality of the Baltic Sea wrecks and their artifacts frequently enable researchers to determine the origin and time period of the ship, if not identify the specific ship itself. So, would you prefer to dive “joe’s tug” or, alternatively, the “Oleg,” a cruiser built in St. Petersburg in 1901-1903 that was sunk by an English torpedo on July 8, 1919? The appeal of diving Baltic Sea wrecks is undeniable.
But make no mistake; wreck diving in the Baltic Sea is not a beginner’s pursuit. Strong currents and bone-chilling thermoclines can make the venture unpleasant at best. Though plenty of wrecks lie along the coasts, many are below recreational dive limits and require decompression diving. And the sad truth is that climate change is causing Baltic Sea temperatures to rise, which in turn is enabling the ship worm to start inching into formerly uninfected Baltic waters along the German and Swedish coasts.
But for a diver with a penchant for wrecks, the Baltic Sea is not to be missed. About a year ago, a team of archeologists carried out the “Secrets of the Sunken Ship” project, identifying 30 more Baltic wrecks of historical importance such as a Li-2 aircraft belonging to the First Long Range Aviation Division Guard downed in 1944, the German boat the “Frida Horn,” and the Swedish “Hanhoot,” built in 1892. Their findings add to the existing list of known wrecks, and more are continuously being added. The Baltic is so rich with wrecks, sometimes discoveries are almost comical. A gas company building an underwater pipeline between Germany and Russia had to repeatedly stop their progress as they unearthed no less than 12 wrecks, some dating back 800 years.
Larry, the Puerto Rico lobster
Puerto Rico may be the fourth largest island in the Caribbean, but it is certainly one of the greatest for scuba diving. Its unique location, between the semi-protected Caribbean Sea and the open Atlantic, means that divers get the best of two realms, with sheltered reefs, pelagics from the deep, sheer drop-offs and networks of caves and tunnels, all in clear, warm waters year round. Water temperatures are in the low 80s in winter; mid-80s in summer. Visibility averages 70 feet around the main island with 100 feet or more off some of the surrounding small islands.
Diving in Puerto Rico is mainly done off the East, South and West coasts of the island. To the east, visibility frequently approaches 100 ft. Off the coast sit two small islands ripe for diving – Culebra and Vieques. The establishment of the Culebra Marine Reserve Park ensures that its dive sites are protected. Though Vieques is known for the prior U.S. Naval bombing exercises, it actually offers very healthy reefs due to the lack of visitors there in the recent past. There are also several dive sites around a series of small uninhabited islands—Palomino, Palominitos, and Cayo Diablo, where white beaches lead to shallow, prolific reefs amongst calm waters. Along with stingrays, eels, angelfish and jacks, very often divers off the east coast see dolphins, turtles, manatees, and even sometimes passing whales.
Puerto Rico’s Wall runs parallel to the south coast, producing sites with shocking drop offs. La Parguera, on the island’s southwest edge, features at least two dozen spots for sighting stands of black coral and pelagics. Rincon is where land-based dive operators run trips westward to Desecheo Island, another area with more dive options than there are hours in the day. A trip to pristine Mona Island is a highlight of many divers who visit, but it lies 45 miles west of the island (a 6-hour boat ride) and so the visit needs to be planned in advance.
Some interesting dives in Puerto Rico include:
Las Cuevas – This fascinating spot located near Desecheo that looks like Dr. Seuss molded the sea floor. Arches and swim-throughs cover the landscape, producing psychedelic effects and plenty of exploration opportunities. This boat dive starts at about 35 feet, but goes no deeper than 65 feet, which insures divers will have plenty of bottom time to search for critters amongst the super healthy reefs.
Cayo Raton – This semicircular reef off of Culebra starts flat and then plunges down to 55 feet. The sometimes strong current makes for 100+ foot visibility on a good day of diving. Larger fish are attracted to the current, but the reef boasts a healthy collection of small creatures, too, prompting many divers to note that there seems to be an unusually large amount of fish to be seen at this site.
Fallen Rock – This advanced dive near La Parguera will take a bit of a boat ride to get to, but bring a book and some sun screen, and you’ll be glad you made the trip. Sometime over the millenea, an enormous piece of the wall broke off and tumbled down the slope, causing a v-shaped notch that now shelters an explosion of coral and sea life. The boulder that broke off now forms a pinnacle further down the slope that divers can explore in detail, with frequent seahorses, crabs and octopus sightings. This is a deep dive, with the top of the reef at 65 feet, and the bottom dropping past 100, but the unique topography makes for a dramatic dive. All the usual reef fish can be spotted here, as can pelagics like mackerels, jacks, barracuda and spotted eagle rays that patrol the blue.
The Wall – This wall dive near La Parguera (sometimes also called Efra’s Wall) boasts multitudes of colorful coral lining the wall and adjacent canyon. This is a great site to check out the plant life, with gorgonians, whip corals, large golden zoanthids, green finger sponges, black coral and rope pore sponges growing from what seems like every surface. This dive also offers queen triggerfish, spotted eagle rays, schools of goatfish and parrotfish, as well as a hefty dose lobster action.
Hawaiian green beauty...
Every diver has favorite things they like to see underwater. For some its sharks, for others rays, but for many people turtles top the list of fun aquatic finds. The Green Turtle (Chelonia Mydas) in particular has been a scuba favorite for years due to its good looks and reef-dweling nature.
Despite their name, Green Turtles are actually a light color all over, with the shell ranging in color from olive green to black, depending on where the turtle lives. Green turtles are migratory animals, traveling thousands of miles each year to nest. In fact, they only nest on the very beach they were born, so in order to lay eggs, they must return to that same beach.
Green turtles are on the endangered species list and therefore protected in most countries around the world. Besides humans, the tiger shark is a Green turtle’s main predator. Adult green turtles can grow to 5 feet long and weigh over 500 pounds, so sharks tend to target younger specimens for snacks.
So if you are determined to dive with these beauties in the wild, where can you go for a guaranteed sighting? The range of the sea turtle extends throughout tropical and subtropical seas around the world, with two distinct populations in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Interestingly, green turtles react differently to scuba divers depending on their location. On one side of Oahu turtles are curious and friendly, while on the opposite shore they jet the moment they see you, so two different dive sites around the same island can produce very different results. When visiting green turtle waters, it’s important to get the input of the locals to find the best locations for healthy, long-lasting viewing. But planning a trip to a locale with a concentration of these green jewels is the first step.
Atlantic
In the Caribbean, major nesting sites have been identified on Aves Island, the U.S. Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico and Tortuguero in Costa Rica. Within United States waters, minor nesting sites have been noted in the states of Georgia, North and South Carolina. Florida attracts them in droves especially near Hutchinson Island, Indian River Lagoon, the Florida Keys, Florida Bay, Homosassa, Crystal River and Cedar Key. In South America green turtles enjoy the waters off Surinam and French Guiana as well as around the island of Ascension.
Pacific & the Indian Ocean
In Mexico, green turtles are found in seagrass pastures in the Gulf of California. They are found throughout the Hawaiian Islands, most notably in Oahu and Lanai and west in the waters of the French Frigate Shoals. The Turtle Islands of the Philippines and the Meru Betiri National Reserve in East Java, Indonesia boast healthy populations. Green turtles are scattered throughout the Great Barrier Reef, but exist in high concentrations around Raine Island. The waters around Madagascar support Africa’s population of green turtles. The Arabian Sea also attracts the turtles, especially in Ash Sharqiyah, Oman and Karachi, Pakistan. In the same area, the waters surrounding Astola Island, a large nesting site, have plenty of green turtles to fill your bottom time.
The Vandenburg
There is more to Key West than dive bars. Most people don’t realize that one of Florida’s biggest party towns actually has a lot of scuba options if you can stay sober long enough to seek them out. Key West’s largest and most pristine reefs are located several miles off shore, making a dive boat a must. Those willing to venture a little further still can also enjoy the dive opportunities in the Lower Keys, especially pristine Looe Key Reef, a protected site teeming with sea life that know nobody is going to eat them. Interesting sites include:
Looe Key Reef – The coral reef of Looe Key has been afforded special protection since 1981. Since then, all spearfishing, coral collection, and even lobstering have been banned there. The site’s namesake, the frigate H.M.S. Looe, accidentally ran hard aground there in 1744; remains of the ship lie between two fingers of coral near the eastern end of the reef although only the ballast and anchor are visible. One unusual aspect of Looe Key is that a complete reef ecosystem is found there, from a rubble ridge of ancient fossilized corals, to a reef flat comprised of turtle grass, to a fore reef made up of large star and brain corals arranged in a spur-and-groove coral formation sloping from 20 to 40 feet. There is even a deep reef which slopes to more than 100 feet, providing a great opportunity to view the pelagic species of the Florida Keys, including eagle rays, turtles and every once in awhile a whale shark or manta ray. But don’t miss the main attraction looking for big game: more varieties of tropical marine species are found at Looe Key than perhaps anywhere else in the hemisphere, placing most of the of action right in front of your mask.
Adolphus Bush – This former island freighter was purchased by the local dive community with the generous assistance of Adolphus Busch IV, and sunk upright and intact in just 100 feet of water some seven miles southwest of Big Pine Key in December 1998. Before sinking, the ship was well cleaned and prepared for divers, including the opening of several large holes for penetration. The ship is 210 feet long and the maximum depth is 110 feet, making it an Intermediate to Advanced level dive. There is some marine growth on the wreck, but the highlight is the ship itself, as well as the schools of fish that are starting to use it as a playground.
Sand Key – From the surface, Sand Key looks like a pile of shells topped with a jaunty red lighthouse hat. But, underwater the view gets much more idylic. The reef itself consists mostly of rock fingers and gullies with sandy bottoms between cliff-like structures and extensive areas of staghorn and elkhorn coral. This site reaches to 65 feet and teems with endless expanses of colorful tropical fish and macro photography opportunities. Though popular, this location is so large that dive boats can spread out, and fish always outnumber divers.
Alexander’s Wreck – commercial salver Chet Alexander purchased this ship from the Navy and sunk it to form an artificial reef. The wreck lies on its side and is broken in half, with the stern section lying 150 yards or so north of the bow, which is awash on most tides. The hull is covered with Leavy oysters and the surrounding waters teem with what seems like unending schools of tropical fish.
Joe’s Tug – This classic tugboat sits totally upright in just 65 feet of water, and offers a great opportunity for close encounters with Goliath Grouper, spotted morays, barracuda, and horse eye jacks. Open access to the wheel house and aft deck make this an enjoyable dive.
The Cayman Salvor -This 180-foot. steel hulled buoy tender, also known as the Cayman Salvager, was intentionally sunk as an artificial reef in 1985. She now sits upright with cavernous open holds providing refuge for baitfish and grunts, as well as a resident jewfish and green moray eel.
Hoyt S. Vandenberg – So, how long to do you plan on staying in the Keys to dive? At 523 feet in length and 10 stories high, the Vandenberg, the Key’s most famous artificial reef, will take you some time to explore. Vandenberg sits upright approximately seven miles off Key West in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, its keel buried at 145 feet. The tops of the bridges, the communication center and the ship’s dish antennas are 40 feet from the surface of the water, perfect for beginning divers or deco stops. All dive spots along the top structure are open, free from obstruction and are easy to maneuver over and around during a dive. The decks are 45 to 90 feet below the surface. There are holes cut measuring 8×10 feet on each side to allow divers to penetrate the decks horizontally. There are 18 stair towers, 11 elevator shafts and cargo hold shafts to give divers vertical access to the wreck. The 25 foot tall rudder and prop is a great deep dive at 150 feet for the advanced diver.
Since being sunk to the bottom in under two minutes’ time on May 27, 2009, the second-largest ship in the world to be sunk as an artificial reef sits encrusted with species of soft corals. Some 48 different species of shallow water and reef fish have taken up residency, such as parrotfish, goliath grouper, yellow and blue tangs, barracuda as well as deeper water dorado and the occasional sailfish attracted by clouds of bait that frequently school around the wreck. Gray angelfish and butterfly fish are routinely seen circling the anchor chain, while arrow crabs treat the whole thing like a jungle gym.
Insane amounts of coral ...
Marathon and the Middle Keys offer lots to do and see underwater. Most sites are extensive spur-and-groove formations, with some well-developed patch reefs thrown in for fun. Coral can’t seem to get enough of the place, with elkhorn, brain, pillar, star, staghorn and (unfortunately) fire coral all growing in abundance. Lobsters and moray eels are found at almost every site, and stone crab, those tasties of the deep, can also be spotted. Though the area boasts some nice dive sites, an added bonus is its proximity to the rest of the keys, both north and south, making the scuba options almost limitless. Some of the fun dives here include:
Sombrero Reef – If you have gone diving in Marathon, chances are you have been to Sombrero Reef, a traditional favorite of the Marathon dive portfolio marked by a 140-foot lighted tower. The site sports your typical spur and groove formation with wide channels of brilliant white sand separating towering coral heads. Schools of grunt and snapper buzz the spot while solitary barracuda stand guard over their turf. The best part of this site is a photo op at “The Arch” an 8-foot high natural coral bridge teeming with colorful coral and tropical fish.
Delta Shoals – Eastward of Sombrero Light lies Delta Shoals, where a vast network of coral canyons fan seaward from a sandy shoal, offering great diving amid elkhorn, brain, and star coral heads. Like so many other Key sites, this one is pretty shallow – 25 feet max. But the sea life is plentiful and the coral is healthy and colorful. Two interesting wrecks lie in this area. The Delta Shoals Barge behind the east end features typical shallow water soft corals and an abundance of fish life, perfect for snorkeling. The other is the Ivory Coast Wreck, a sunken slave ship lost in 1853, although little is recognizable any more. Both wrecks offer plenty of places for sea life to move in and set up shop.
Thunderbolt Wreck – Sunk intentionally as a dive attraction in March, 1986, the Thunderbolt now sits upright in 115 feet of water. Her superstructure is coated with colorful sponge, coral, and hydroid, providing refuge and sustenance to large angelfish, jacks, and a variety of deep-water pelagic creatures. At 188 feet, this former lightning research vessel is the biggest and the best wreck in the Marathon area. Divers can spend hours investigating the ship’s structure, including a large reel off the bow and enormous twin props perfect for photo shoots. Large hatches off the main deck open into the engine compartments where it is possible to descend into the hull to 110 feet.
Adelaide Baker – This historic steamship wrecked on January 28, 1889 while bound for Savannah with a load of sawn timber. At the time of the ship’s demise, it was 153 feet long with a beam of 35 feet and a hold of 21 feet, though now what remains covers over 1400 feet of the ocean floor. Divers of all levels can enjoy this shallow wreck, including two large steam-venting stacks that are still relatively recognizable. The rubble strewn floor houses a nice array of macro creatures, especially those that like to hide in cracks and crevices.
The Eagle Wreck
Islamorada is actually a village consisting of six islands including Plantation Key, Windley Key, Upper and Lower Matecumbe keys, and Long Key. It is well known for sport fishing, as the bonefish, permit, tarpon, snook and redfish are abundant and almost always biting. But anglers aren’t the only ones who go to Islamorada for the variety and volume of the fish. Divers flock to the area’s high profile coral heads, broad ledges and wreck cracks and crevices that shelter snapper, grunts, goatfish, angelfish, jacks, porgies, hogfish, barracudas, lobsters, grouper, nurse sharks and moray eels. Islamorada offers a wide variety of shallow and deep coral reefs, mini walls, shipwrecks, and even an underwater habitat for scientific research, the Aquarius.
Visibility in Islamorada waters is between 80-100 feet. The average annual air temperature is 80F degrees while the average water surface temperature is 75° F. The warmest time of the year to dive is between July and August, but diving is done year round. Examples of Islamorada dive sites include:
The Eagle Wreck – This 287-foot ship was intentionally sunk in 1985 as part of the Florida Keys Artificial Reef Association program. She sits in 110 feet of water, although parts of her structure start as shallow as 75 feet. The ship rests on her starboard side, and is wrapped in encrusting sponge and coral and populated by huge schools of grunt, tarpon, silversides and jack, as well as cobia, jewfish, and nurse sharks. The Eagle sits in water outside of the protective reef, so while visibility is incredible, the current can sometimes be strong.
Conch Reef/Wall – Here the reef leads to a wall (rare for Key waters) that drops down to a depth of 100 feet. A proliferation of barrel sponges call this spot home, from thimble sized versions up to larger than life specimens. The depth is a nice change from other reefs in the Keys, and offers the chance to regularly see pelagic fish in the blue. The current in this area can run from moderate to strong; in strong times it can be great for drift dives. This site is popular for good, year-round visibility.
Pickles Reef – A long, narrow, spur and groove reef with plenty of opportunity to observe macro critters like flamingo tongue cowries and banded coral shrimp. At a maximum depth of 25 feet, this spot is perfect for a long second dive with an underwater camera. If anyone can tell me why this site is named after a sandwich condiment, I would appreciate being enlightened.
The San Jose and the Infante Wrecks – Two galleons belonging to the famous Silver Plate Fleet of 1733 were lost in a hurricane off the Keys and went down within a mile of one another, both in quite shallow water (15 feet). Not much is left of the Infante except some timber planking originally from the ship’s deck and her uniquely shaped ballast stones. The San Jose collided with the sand flats, where her stern section disintegrated and became detached from the main hull which sank another 200 yards away with its ballast stones. An easily-accessible window into history.
Davis Reef – This popular outer reef on the edge of a flat shallow bank attracts huge schools of fish including grunts and schoolmaster snapper. Several personable green moray eels have also added to this site’s fame. Nurse sharks, turtles, parrotfish, angelfish, lobsters and other types of eels frequent this spot, giving visitors plenty to see. Divers of all skill levels can appreciate the reef, which starts shallow and reaches down to 80 feet. A statue of Buddha sits on a concrete block in the middle of the site, adding to the serenity of the dive.
I often make the mistake of assuming that the best dive destinations require long plane flights and significant concessions in topside amenities. The more I learn about the Florida Keys, however, the more wrong I turn out to be. I originally set out to write a single post about diving in the Keys, but quickly realized that this scuba story is much too fantastic to tell in just one page.
The 120-mile Florida Keys island chain is home to the continental United States’ only living-coral barrier reef with more than 600 varieties of fish and more than 500 wrecks. The Keys begin at the southeastern tip of the Florida peninsula, about 15 miles (24 km) south of Miami, and extend in a gentle arc south-southwest and then westward to Key West, the westernmost of the inhabited islands, and on to the uninhabited Dry Tortugas. The islands lie along the Florida Straits, dividing the Atlantic Ocean to the east from the Gulf of Mexico to the west, and defining one edge of Florida Bay. In 1990, the U.S. government established the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary to protect the marine habitat throughout the islands, which has promoted healthy reefs and abundant fish. Diving there is easy, with visibility up to 120 feet and mooring buoys at almost every dive site, all of which are a short boat ride from shore.
Since the Keys are laid out in a long line that stretches down Route 1, it is helpful to think of them in sections from north to south: Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon and the Lower Keys/Key West. Though they all boast crystal clear water and topside fun, each part has unique diving opportunities to enjoy.
Part 1: Key Largo – Route 1 Mile Marker 112 – 90
Key Largo is only about an hour drive from Miami, making it perfect for travelers seeking instant gratification after touching down. There is plenty of activity topside to keep a visitor busy. Sport fishing is big there, with opportunities to catch sailfish offshore, bonefish along the Atlantic shallows, or redfish and tarpon in Florida Bay. Also, Key Largo’s proximity to the Everglades makes it a great destination for kayakers, birders and other eco-tourists. If shopping is more your thing, there a tons of quaint shops in the little beach villages along Route 1, many of which sell artwork and local crafts.
Since 1960, Key Largo has been promoting marine conservation by limiting certain kinds of fishing and protecting its reef, so it is no wonder that the sea life is so prolific there. Key Largo diving encompasses coral reefs, artificial reefs / wrecks, ledges, walls and centuries old shipwrecks. Depths range from 18-120 feet. The normal weather is sunny and warm with air temperature in the mid 80’s and water temperature ranging from the mid 80’s in the summer to the low 70’s in the winter. Though there are several deep-water sites, a major draw for the Largo reefs is the shallow depths, where a diver can get ample bottom time to study the area’s extensive variety of fish species.
Key Largo has plenty of sites to keep a diver busy for days. A few of the more notable spots include:
Spiegel Grove Wreck – Ask a diver to name one artificial reef off the Florida coast, and chances are the Spiegel Grove will come to mind. This 510-foot Navy transport ship was sunk in June 2002 as another intentional addition to the Key Largo area’s impressive list of shipwrecks. After more than three years resting on its starboard side, waves from Hurricane Dennis pushed the ship into an upright position, where it still rests today at a depth of 45 to 130 feet. Marine growth is coming along nicely, but the star of the show is still the ship itself, a positively enormous craft that really takes your breath away when it comes into view.
The Elbow – This spur and groove formation reef boasts healthy corals and plenty of nooks and crannies for critters to shelter. Though it is shallow, just 12-35 feet, divers find the abundant coral and multitude of fish hold their attention quite well. The only way you could miss the site’s tons of resident moray eels and barracuda is if you stayed on the dive boat. Several wrecks at this site, including a 752 ton Civil War –era steamer sunk in 1866, add to the location’s appeal.
Key Largo Dry Rocks – The well-photographed Statue of Christ of the Abyss lifts its arms toward the surface at this shallow site, perhaps the most famous spot in the Key Largo Marine Sanctuary. The statue was cast in Italy and donated to the Underwater Society of America by Egidi Cressi, an Italian industrialist and diving equipment manufacturer. Many divers come to see and photograph the bronze statue, but the site has natural wonders to offer as well, such as incredible specimens of brain coral and classic coral fingers teeming with marine life.
The Benwood – This wreck was an English-built cargo vessel that sunk in 1942 during WWII. The stern lies in extremely shallow water, with the bow reaching down to about 45 feet. There isn’t much coral growth here, but the wreck itself is interesting to explore, and divers are frequently accompanied by huge schools of grunt and porkfish.
Molasses Reef – This spur and groove reef drops to 55 feet in water made crystal clear by the Gulf Stream. High profile coral heads and massive congregates of tropical marine life define this popular reef. Almost any tropical marine flora and fauna you can name can be found here.
Bibb and Duane Wrecks – These twin 327-foot US Coast Guard cutters were sunk intentionally as dive attractions in 1987 as part of an artificial reef program sponsored by the Keys Association of Dive Operators. The Duane lies upright with a slight list to starboard at a depth of about 100 ft. The Bibb overturned while sinking and lies on her starboard side starting at 95 feet. Both are now are completely covered in colorful coral and gorgonians. Divers beware, however, as swift currents sometimes sweep this site, taking it from an intermediate dive to an advanced one.