
Harlequin Shrimp
Maui seems to get more popular every year, and for good reason. The number of direct flights from the mainland is on the rise, as is the availability of amenities and comforts on this tiny Hawaiian island. But make no mistake – this green gem’s influx of visitors hasn’t dulled its appeal. This tropical paradise continues to delight with beauty both above, and below the waves.
You may very well find yourself here without a thought to the many underwater opportunities, but now that your husband/wife/significant other/kids/friends/etc. have gotten you to the sandy fringes, why not check out the opportunities in the depths?
Maui diving can loosely be broken out into four related but unique diving experiences: Molokini, Southwest Maui, North Maui and Lanai. You won’t be diving any unchartered territory here, but there’s a good reason divers come back year after year to experience what Maui’s waters have to offer.
Molokini
Molokini is a small islet formed by an extinct volcano lying 3 miles off the south Maui coastline. Molokini Crater, is a marine reserve below water and bird sanctuary above. Molokini consists of several dive sites all around the islet ranging from anchor dives to drift dives.
The visibility on this reef system averages 100+ feet and provides a panoramic view of the marine ecosystem. Frequently, manta rays, white tip reef sharks, amberjacks and moray eels are sighted. Harlequin shrimp take residence around coral heads and Triton’s trumpets and nudibranchs are found nestled in crevices. Hawaiian garden eels, masked angelfish, long-nose hawk fish and many more fish endemic to the Hawaiian Islands can also be found here.
Did I mention that Molokini is also located inside the Maui Whale Sanctuary? Between the end of December and the end of April this trip affords a great opportunity to see humpback whales on the boat ride to and from the dive sites. Molokini has also seen visits from whale sharks, oceanic white tip reef sharks, and tiger sharks. Dive sites include: Reefs End, Reefs End Drift, Enenu’i, and Molokini Backwall.
Reefs End – An excellent dive at multiple depths. The top of the finger lies just below the waterline and drops down in terraces to hundreds of feet of water. If you go inside the crater you can find the Garden Eels and the Center Reef just beyond. The dive can also be done as a drift around to the backside of Molokini.
Molokini Back Wall – An amazing topography consisting of ledges and walls dropping down to over 200 feet of depth. 100+ of visibility is normal here. Currents run along the wall so the dive is done as a drift dive. You can see sharks, jacks, schools of butterflyfish, squirrelfish, and much more on this dive.
Whales, manta rays, and ocean white tip sharks have been seen here passing by.
South & West Maui
Southwest Maui scuba diving includes many different dive sites from La Perouse Bay in the south to Ma’alaea Bay in the North. Many consider Molokini a part of this dive site grouping, but I think the Crater warrants its own discussion, so it has been omitted here. That doesn’t mean, however, that there is nothing else to see in the south as well as the west. Wreck dive sites include: the St Anthonys wreck, the Landing Craft off the Maui Prince, the Tank and Landing Craft off Big Beach, The WWII Helldiver, the PB4Y out in deep water, and as of yet undiscovered WWII wrecks. For reef diving, fantastic options include: La Perouse Bay, Red Hill, White Rock, Wailea Point, 5 Graves, the 85′ and 110′ Pinnacles, the De-Gausing Station and more.
La Perouse Bay – This bay is a recent creation in Maui’s geologic history, formed when the last lava flowed on Maui about 200 years ago. This dive has an amazing variety of fish for its size – perhaps greater than any other site in the south. A lava rock pinnacle provides the basis for this protective habitat. All four species of Hawaii’s common angelfish can be found here, as well as many Hawaiian endemics.
Tank and Landing Craft – Remnants of World War II, these two wrecks are in 60 feet of crystal clear water off the coast of the Makena Golf and Beach Resort. Still recognizable after 60+ years underwater, eels have taken up residency in the pipes and barrels. A strange mix of weaponry and old ammunition are interspersed with a plethora of sea life. Schools of goat fish swim around the wreck, and octopus are regularly found here. The short swim from one wreck to the other over a sandy bottom offers an opportunity to find shells and sea biscuits.
St Anthony Wreck – In 1997 the St. Anthony, a 65 foot longliner fishing boat, was sunk off Mokapu Beach in Wailea, to a depth of 60-70 ft.to become part of Maui’s only official artificial reef. Along with the deposit of hundreds of concrete weighted tires in which over 50 species of fish have taken up residence, the marine animals have taken up residence, the area has become home to over 50 species of fish. A number of Green Sea Turtles also call the St. Anthony their home. They tuck under the hull, inside the holds and rest in all kinds of humorous positions on the cabin, using the vertical and horizontal bars to hang from and wedge themselves between. Two frog fish live on the deck, nicknamed “The Captain” and “Little Buddy”.
North Shore
Are you the more adventurous type? North Shore is for you. There’s not as much here, but it’s harder to get to so the crowds are absent but the fish are in abundance. There are lots of unnamed sites, but a few warrant citations here:
Turtle Caves – Half a dozen lava pinnacles rise from 70 ft. to about 10 ft. below the surface. Some pinnacles are hollow, some have caves, and some form canyons. They are covered with healthy hard and soft corals and house many sea creatures (including turtles).
Hidden Pinnacle – The Kahakuloa side of Maui has many hard-to-get-to adventure dive sites. This is one of them: a pinnacle that rises from a 120-ft. bottom to the surface. It’s covered with soft corals and sponge seldom seen on the leeward side of Maui. Swarms of plankton-feeding fish rise in the water column as the current, which is sometimes strong, brings new supply of food.
Lanai
The Cathedrals and more than 20 other dive sites at Lanai offer opportunities to enjoy the unique formations made when molten lava cools in the Pacific Ocean. Tubes, caverns, ledges and walls of lava make excellent backdrops for underwater photography and magnificent mazes for exploration. Reticulated butterfly fish, gold rim surgeon fish and flame angelfish are just a few varieties of the rare fish seen in Lanai’s waters. Turtles are found on many dive sites around Lanai and the plankton-rich waters frequently attract manta rays.
As a bonus, it is not uncommon to be escorted to and from the dive sites by spinner dolphins riding the bow wave. In season, roughly from the end of December to the end of April, this trip also offers an excellent opportunity to see Humpback whales.
Below is a listing of dive operators to check out if you are considering diving in Maui and don’t want to go searching all over the internet. I have personally dove with some of them, but not all, so I am not recommending one vs. the other. I also receive no benefit, monetary or otherwise, if you click on their link or dive with them. Happy Diving!
http://www.mauidiveshop.com
http://www.lahainadivers.com
http://www.bbscuba.com/
http://www.prodivermaui.com/
http://mauiunderwater.com Makena Coast Dive Charters
http://www.mauiscuba.com/ Ed Robinson’s Diving Adventures
http://www.scubashack.com/map.php3
http://www.mikesevernsdiving.com/
http://www.mauidiving.com/divespots.html
http://www.scubadivemaui.com/
http://mauidreamsdiveco.com/
http://mauisundivers.com/scuba/index.php
Sometimes fact is even funnier than fiction. The articles below represent some of the best ocean-themed headlines I have seen lately. Click on the headlines for pure reading enjoyment.
Penguin rescue operation under way after south Atlantic oil spill
The penguins are doing a great job. The hardest part was finding them little parachutes to wear.
Underwater Translator May Finally Let Us Talk to Dolphins
Yes, but do we really want to know what they are saying to us after watching the ‘Cove’
Branson: Deep-sea adventure will reveal ‘extraordinary creatures’
Because everything else in the sea is quite bland.
Experience the life aquatic in your own personal sub
I hope it comes in yellow.
Navy successfully tests prototype ocean-going laser weapon
James Bond would be so proud.
I’m a celebrity, rent my island!
I have a mortgage, kiss my ass!
Another active Atlantic hurricane season expected
Thank you, Captain Obvious, for this story as well as your prior article “Fish found in the Atlantic Ocean.”
Leaping sea creatures: Do we need bigger boats?
No, just better luck.
Four ways to have a whale of a time
Maybe it’s me, but does this sound like it belongs in the “Adult” reading section?
Gotta Watch: eagle ray pins woman
If you are doing something that puts you in a position to wind up with a 300-lb eagle ray on you, you probably shouldn’t be doing that activity in the first place.
Treasure hunters strike gold off Florida coast
Because if it was on the coast it would be called a robbery.

- The whales have no trouble finding Mozambique.
Mozambique. Just the name conjures up exotic notions of faraway lands. When pressed, some people might correctly identify Mozambique as a country in Africa, but pinpointing its exact location would send most people scrambling for a good map. Fortunately, droves of manta rays, whalesharks and humpback whales have no such trouble finding the waters off of Mozambique’s coast.
So many dive spots, so little time. Mozambique is a country in southeastern Africa bordered by the Indian Ocean to the east, Tanzania to the north, to the west and South Africa to the southwest. This little-known diving destination offers pristine beaches, warm waters and healthy, unspoilt reefs. Much of the diving is done from the town of Tofo, a small but growing town in southeastern Mozambique right on the ocean. Avid shark divers tend to gravitate south to the beaches of Ponta do Ouro and Mozambique’s top two shark reefs, Pinnacles and Pandaine Express. The Island of Inhaca is also a popular spot for diving and snorkeling. Generally, the visibility is between 40 and 100 feet. The water temperature in the Indian Ocean varies from 23 to 29 C.
Diving with critters great and small. By far the biggest diving attractions in Mozambique are the Manta Rays, Whalesharks, Humpback Whales and Dolphins:
- Rays can be spotted on almost every reef off of Mozambique year round. The waters boast a wide variety of rays, including the Giant Manta ray. In 2008, a new, migratory species of manta ray was identified in the waters off of Mozambique. Many scientists think that southern Mozambique hosts the largest population of manta rays in the world. The rays are so plentiful that most dive operators, especially those out of Tofo, will guarantee manta ray sightings during dives.
- Whalesharks are mostly summer visitors with the best time to see them being November until April. Whalesharks are gentle creatures – non-aggressive plankton feeders that can reach up to 12+m in length with average lengths of 8-9m in the Tofo area, which is the home the of largest concentration of whalesharks in Africa. During November and March, the whalesharks are plentiful, with up to 20 individual sharks being spotted during 30 minute boat journeys. The whalesharks cruise along, at, or just below, the surface so divers frequently don their snorkel gear to see them. Some diving outfits also work with local small plane operators who act as whaleshark spotters, which pretty much guarantees the chances of seeing one while there.
- Humpback Whales visit the area from as early as June until as late as October. The whales spend the summer months in Antarctic waters feeding on large amounts of krill, and then migrate up the east coast of Africa to mate and give birth. Male whales are often seen breeching the surface and slapping their fins in an effort to look sexy to the ladies in the surrounding waters. While diving, it is possible to hear them “singing” to one another – a sound that can be heard from up to 2 km away.
- Dolphins can be seen in Mozambican waters most of the year but June, July and August are the best months for them. There are various species of dolphins in the area including Bottlenose dolphins, Common dolphins and Humpback dolphins. Dolphins are rarely seen alone but rather in groups known as pods – sometimes in very large numbers. Divers are frequently treated to dolphin sightings right at the bow of their dive boats as the creatures ride the water swell.
Smaller, but no less beautiful… The Tofo area is rich in a diverse array of marine life, such as hard and soft corals, pelagic fishes, a multitude of colorful reef fish, sea turtles and green moray eels. It is common to see Grey Reef Sharks, White and Black Tip Reef Sharks all along the coast, especially in the south. Macro photographers will love the great diversity of shrimps, nudibranchs and even leaf fish to choose as photo subject matter.

- -Co-workers refer to you as ‘flipper’ behind your back…and you sort of like it.
- -You use the words Carcharodon carcharias * in casual conversation.
- -Around the dinner table, you asked everyone what they did topside that day.
- -You lack the funds to fix your car dent and leaky house roof, but your new $1,200 Atomic Cobalt Nitrox Integrated Dive Computer really rocks.
- You’ve got so many sea-themed tattoos that you look like an aquarium when you walk.
- Your Facebook and Twitter accounts list your location as “the ocean.”
- You consider dive boat rust to be a lunchtime condiment.
- You never saw a shark you didn’t like.
*Just for the rest of you, Carcharodon carcharias is the Latin name for the great white shark.
Again it is the season for gift giving, a time when many people stress out about purchasing the perfect present for their special someone. My family has caught on that I have a scuba affinity and so most of my gifts are ocean-themed (I get Dramamine in my stocking every year.)
Recently I was scanning the scuba catalogs for “Christmas Wish List” items and came across several pieces of “gear” of dubious purpose. Though they may look appealing on a glossy page, these trinkets are destined to be abandoned under a boat’s bench seat sometime in the future by a frustrated diver with a lighter wallet. Links to these actual products have been provided for your enjoyment.
Dive Ireland Classic Men’s Thong – For the diver who wants to proudly display their love of the sport to…hopefully not too many people. According to the website, this classic Christmas gift “covers sweet spots without covering your assets.” Just $12 immortalizes your commitment to diving Ireland by emblazoning it on your snorkel.
Scuba Lobster Inn (W/Zipper) – “The most popular collection bag for lobstering.” Lobsters check in, but they can’t check out. When you are ready to eat, just unzip and boil. Comes in your choice of 3 colors, none of which you can see underwater.
Cold Water Mittens – 7mm neoprene mitts by Edge with velcro/elastic wrist closures. Warm, but not terribly useful if you need to use any fingers underwater. Plus, your little kid mittens will most likely draw the ridicule of fellow divers. Topside activities with this gear include making snowmen.
Aqua Maracas – “Shake things up next time your down! This lightweight, compact, underwater signaling device is audible over 30 feet away.” It’s a perfect complement to your Scuba Samba and guaranteed to frighten all the fish.
“Dive Naked” License Plate – Conceptually I like the idea, but in practice I would think there might be some chaffing associated with this activity. What I know for sure is that NO ONE at my place of employment needs to see me pull into the parking lot with this on my car.
5-Page Wrist Dive Slate (w/free extra pencil!) – For those who are inspired to write an entire novel while underwater or carry on a lengthy conversation on existentialism with their dive buddy. Or perhaps it is meant to capture a checklist of scuba steps: Step 1 – Inhale, Step 2- Exhale, Step 3- Inhale…People who bought this gift should have also bought the Guide to Underwater Hand Signals.
The Shark Shield – “The Shark Shield incorporates two electrodes, which project the field from the unit and thus create an invisible protective shield that surrounds the user…” Sort of like one of those canine electric fences, but for sea life. Order in the next ten minutes and we’ll include a free can of Turtle Repellent. One question: if it is invisible, how do you know its working?

No, I have not used Photo Shop software on this picture. This Pacific Ocean beauty really does sport an almost perfectly-formed purple square, a decorative accent shared by all its brethren. This species features a strange yet practical feature: all fish are born female, with specific adults turning into males as needed.
The square-spot anthias or square-spot fairy baslet, Pseudanthias Pleurotaenia, is found throughout the Pacific Ocean from Indonesia to Samoa, north to Ryukyu Islands, south to Rowley Shoals and New Caledonia, as well as throughout Micronesia. It’s usually found in large groups, sometimes numbering in the thousands. It grows to 7 inches and appears in a variety of colors including red, pink, orange, yellow and purple. This geometrical beauty spends its day swimming around the reef, looking for tasty zooplankton snacks. But don’t let its good looks fool you – this fish can swim fast and even become quite aggressive when threatened.

Even the Great White Shark looks tame in comparison to this beast...
Scuba divers frequently get eaten by giant ______.
(Fill in the blank: giant octopi, sharks, man-eating conchs, radioactive seahorses, etc.)
FALSE. You have a better chance of being killed by a vending machine than being eaten by a shark. Seriously. Jacques Cousteau once said that “Man, of all the animals, is the only one to consider himself a great delicacy.” Just because there are some large predatory animals living in the oceans does not mean that they are gunning for every diver that jumps in. Divers, in general, are too big and too loud (i.e. intimidating) for most creatures to consider us a food source. Not to mention that a human’s bone/muscle mass to fat ratio is darn near indigestible and definitely not appetizing, even to a great white shark. This is not to say caution be damned: I would advise against bronco riding a bull shark and parading about the sea floor with an octopus as a fashion accessory. But, to answer the question from countless co-workers, airplane seatmates, relatives, and even the little old lady who walks her chihuahua by my house every day at 9am, no, I am not concerned that something will eat me while scuba diving.
Chicks dig divers.
TRUE. Of course it helps if the diver in question is buff, tan and 22. If you are 50, hairy and can’t fit your beer gut into your wetsuit, you may find this myth to be false. Interestingly, many dive boats actually have a larger proportion of men on them than women. So, ladies, if you are looking to meet some new and interesting people, scuba might be the thing for you. If you don’t make a love connection, at least you got some good exercise and explored a bit of the incredible ocean. It’s got to be better than speed dating.
Diving is a great opportunity to do something with my husband/wife/partner/sister/brother/child/friend/good looking neighbor, etc.
MAYBE. Divers learn at different paces, so just because you and the target of your affection start out in scuba lessons together does not necessarily mean that you will progress at the same pace or enjoy the same type of diving. There is always at least one person on every dive boat whose former dive buddy just wants to sit on the beach, play golf or find the bottom of their margarita glass (repeatedly). Fear not, however, if you find yourself in this solitary predicament. Divers are a welcoming bunch. You will most likely be able to trade in your current stick-in-the-mud friend for a shiny new dive buddy who shares your interests.
All scuba diving must be dangerous.
FALSE. Divers tend to choose their most extreme scuba experiences to share with others. Tales of swimming vertically down the Devil’s Throat in Mexico or swirling in the murky Cauldron of Death in Chile make for impressive bar room stories more so than floating along in the 10 foot deep Flower Gardens. Sitting on the shallow ocean floor watching a sand eel pop its head in and out of its hole just doesn’t extract the same listener reaction as the bull shark that tore a chunk out of your fin as you escaped towards the dive boat. Scuba can be as dangerous or as benign as the diver chooses, based on the dive profile, resident critters and skill level of the diver in question. Like many things in life, there is a comfortable level to be had for everyone.
Learning to dive can turn you into James Bond or Scuba Steve.
MAYBE. If you just don’t have a cool bone in your body, no amount of bottom time will help. But, if you are looking to add a little spice to an otherwise tame existence, scuba might be for you. You’ll meet new people. You’ll have something new to talk about around the water cooler on Monday. You might even find you are motivated to go to the gym a bit more (so next time you can actually lift that tank). Note: spy gadgets and Bond-like attitude are not included in standard scuba gear.
Divers are required to have 3-day old stubble, a bad crew cut and a tattoo that says Mom.
FALSE. Yes, once upon a time scuba was reserved for the “heartiest” of humans who grunted and spat, while grabbing their god-given jewels before entering the water. Also, there was a time when most people thought the world was flat. So…has anything Nostradamus promised come to fruition lately? No? Then let’s let go of this Neanderthal notion of diving, shall we? Most dive boats hold a healthy combination of divers that are old and young, male and female, and (possibly concerningly) a wide variety of physical fitness. Scuba diving is now done (literally) on the 4 corners of the globe in every language you can name. I will say, however, that many die-hard divers have aquatic themed tattoos. Why? I have no idea, other than their conviction for the sea. I don’t have one myself, but am shopping for one now. I’m thinking a whaleshark with a wave. Maybe a Mom whaleshark.

Odd...but tasty
What is this alien looking thing waving its tentacles at the camera? It’s not the most graceful looking mollusk on the planet, but it very well may be the tastiest. Though this species has changed little over the past 500 million years, you may not have come across it if you haven’t been diving on the western coast of North America.
The northern abalone or pinto abalone, Haliotis kamtschatkana, is a species of large edible sea snail. This tasty critter is found in kelp beds along outer well-exposed coasts from Sitka, Alaska along the coast of Canada to Point Conception, California. The pinto abalone has an adult shell size of approximately 4 inches, but it can sometimes grow as large as 6 inches. Its green-brown shell is only ugly on the outside; inside its iridescence is stunning. The northern abalone was classified as endangered on the IUCN Red List in 2006.

